Salty's

It's all I use on my spincasting system with rubber molds. It outlasts every other release I've tried. These molds get cycled for hours on end for multiple days. I generally have to re-coat about every 5-7 casting days. The drawback is that it rubs off on everything that touches it, so things are dirty and highly recommend you wear nitrile gloves around it. I'm making thousands of pieces a day. Your probably not. It will probably last longer than you.

This is basf material stuck over a couple of finished lures just to show effect. Same stuff as the Angelina material. Did this just with a lighter. The blue white lure was done as two pieces wrapped, the joint is about 1" in if you can see it. Also as an fyi, they make this same stuff in a shrink wrap also...

Made in NJ I believe.

plastic milk jug stuff works better...you can cut it with scissors As long as the beer was cold

yes. I'm a hack with a bridgeport

Did somebody say mach 3

Major no-no. https://www.usps.com/ship/can-you-ship-it.htm#hazmat That is a $20k fine and possible jail time. "Many household items can’t go in the mail. Hazardous materials come in a wide variety of forms and can be chemical, biological, radioactive, or a combination. The Postal Service's™ definition of a hazardous material includes many common household and consumer products. They may not be dangerous on your shelf at home, but they can become a hazard when shaken or when the temperature or pressure changes. Some common hazardous materials include… Perfumes Nail polish Flea collars or flea sprays Aerosols Bleach Pool chemicals Paints Matches Batteries Fuels or gasoline Airbags Dry ice Mercury thermometers Cleaning supplies Items previously containing fuel Glues Fireworks"

I got some to play with on displays. It brushes pretty thick, I did not thin at all, used a chip brush and hung. Wiped twice on the bottom and still thick on the recessed eyes. 12 hours later it's tacky. Clear, no bubbles even fast mixing and having a bazillion bubbles in the mixing cup, they all broke when applied and today the lure looks nice and shiny, surface is still "tacky" though. Kinda like envirotex when it doesn't get mixed right. I'll see how it looks tomorrow. These were two junk lures so I'll give it the hammer test when it's hard

usps will not accept liquids. $20k fine. Paint should be sent via fedex or ups. Should be marked orm-d and I think your supposed to have a hazmat endorsement for any paint liquid, not sure on this for water based stuff. Solvent based definitely

Wonder how bright it is. Probably a very fine aluminum powder or something similar. Try it and see how it works. Would be perfect for "chrome" coating little things like jigs etc if it was indeed bright and could be clear coated. Best way to tell how bright it is...do a shadow test. Note how close you can put a dark square to it before you see a reflection in the surface. The further the better obviously. Put it close and note the color/reflection, then more away and watch the shade disappear on the surface.. If you do a test compared to a real piece of chrome or mirror vs the dark square you'll see how good it really is and what I'm talking about. Somebody showed me this once.

Mentioning Chrome paint on this site is like throwing meat to the lions LOL Haven't seen it smalljaw, many "chrome" paints won't stay that way when topcoated due to how the paint is usually made. I looked on their site, didn't see anything though.

Soft lead will pour very nicely. Also a mid of soft lead and wheel weights works good too. Keep your temp down to ~700

I have a concept of a lure painted with a coating that when a voltage is applied to it that it changes color. I think it could be done...similar to a squid with chromatophores. Temperature stuff is neat though too. Wonder if it could be combined.

Clean the wheel real well of dust and use Wood/Rubber/Plastic CA glue, available in thick, thinner, thin mix. I'd use the thick and put a bead around the wheel then lay the rubber down on it. It will never come off again and will hold nicely compared to contact cement. I use this stuff everywhere in the shop on a daily basis, get a spray bottle of accelerator too. You will love this stuff.

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He's talking about punch dies as am I, your talking about steel rule dies for punching fabric, leather, foam etc. Those won't work for what he wants to do. Lip stock for lexan is typically .125 thick.

You couldn't buy single station tooling for the costs you've got there. Not even close. The heat treating alone would cost you what you quoted. You want to size the punch so it's clearance is 20% of the piece (total) for best fracture and tool life. Steel dies work great for punching lexan. You get a burr that needs to be sanded but the break is pretty good and all you need is a flat face punch/die.

You may be able to put a layer of di-acetone alcohol on the top of the mcu to keep it from curing. I believe because the weight of the da it will "float" on top of the finish. Do not know if this will work for you.

Denatured alcohol Doesn't take much.

BobP said it all. If you could invent the perfect clear you would be richer than Bill Gates

That stuff has been on here before. It doesn't work well for lures. It turns milky white after being in the water. I got some and tested it years ago and it was a waste of time and money. I got my money back from the guy and gave the jug away.

thompsons contains silicone. Bad juju very bad juju

Lol a tool and die maker I am not. I'm a hack with a metal shop I'd rather concentrate on turning wood there's less crashes that way bob I make enough metal chips on a daily basis as it is. Making precision punches is best left to someone who knows exactly what they' are doing. And has a edm machine

And you have to have a press big enough to do this, and a surface grinder to sharpen your tools. I have a 10 and a 14 ton press in-house. If you have never done it before my recommendation is don't. One good die crash and your out $700 or more. Not to mention you need kick presses to punch holes, make multiple bends, then there's rotary tumblers, stone, cleaning, polishing. It's seriously cost prohibitive.

I own about 15 die sets for blanking lips. Custom size/shapes will run you typically about $700 for a die set for loose tolerances (.006-.008). .003 tolerance the price jumps by about 1/3 You will need to provide a cad drawing with sizes, radius of all bends, thickness and type of material.