Salty's

Call Bill at Hudson Poly Bag in Hudson Ma. Tell him Salty sent you. I have custom printed bags and they're 1/5 the price shown above. The biggest cost is the print screen which I think ran abt $150 which is a one time charge. I have used him for 12 years. GREAT service and prices are comparable to even Chinese stuff like Uline etc.

Yes it can have this effect if it's creating turbulence inside as it's poured.

Same as what I already did but it has a pattern bit on it instead. Problem with this is now you have to affix the pattern to the body because when you flip it then it won't stay together and the resulting shape will be wrong.

LOL pretty much yes

jcool what you are referring to here are called inclusions. These are caused by a number of things. Speed of pouring causing turbulence in the flow of metal, this increases the chance of oxides forming. Fluidity of the metal can cause this, dirt or dust/impurity contamination, poor molds, improper mold release, gas buildup in your pour caused by improper venting, temperature causing premature shrinkage, all kinds of stuff can cause this. Change your flux first. I'm betting you have really dirty lead or ladle.. Salammoniac works well but it's nasty, a wood stick works well, bees wax works well although very flammable LOL watch your eyebrows. There's also some bullet pouring stuff from places like midway etc that work well too. If changing flux doesnt fix it then pour hotter and slower.

Mason box co. Attleboro ma.....now that I think of it I think they got bought last year. http://www.masonbox.com/

Dave at least you don't have to go far for good Chinese food LOL

Second round of antibiotics and steroids. I hate this chit. I think I'm going to start eating the urinal cakes pretty soon LOL it can't get much worse. White base is melamine, bottom of this is made of lexan and glued directly to the melamine so it slides real easy on the router table. Under the quick clamp is the forward edge of the lexan, this has a piece of sandpaper glued to it and keeps the bait from moving once the clamp is clipped down. You can see 2 small squares of lexan behind this that act as stops for keeping the bait from moving. With this I can route one entire side of a bait in one pass. VERY safely. You set the height of the rounding bit to meet the height of the body. Works for small or large stuff. I threw this together a few years ago and have been pretty happy with it. This is regularly used in production and I've made thousands of lures with it.

If I ever get over this relapse of pneumonia and get back in my shop I'll take a picture of something. I guarantee you will never look at a router table the same way again. I can round 5-6 baits a minute and all the while extremely safe.

Mark I don't remember where I got the pair I have but they are quite old. Unfortunately the newer you get with stuff like this you get cheaper steel. Old tools last forever..new stuff not so much so. If I can remember I'll hunt these down and see if there's a name on them. I don't remember one but will look.

Ok I laughed. These are not a gimmick. They're used by many woodworkers to radius a straight edge. They work well on face grain, they don't work well on end grain. I've used the same pair I've owned for more than 35 years. They've never needed sharpening. They do however have a tendency to start an edge splitting if your not careful with them. You draw them down the side of a board and it gives you a nice rounded corner. This being said the radius they will give you is too small for a fishing lure. It's the equivalent of a quick sand with a piece of 100 grit paper along an edge. Mostly used in cabinet making to ease an edge to take the sharpness off it. Table router with a radius bit in it would be much more suited to rounding lures.

JSC you got whacked there too huh? They sent me a $100 penalty how's that for a slap in the face. It was 7 days late filing. Because they didn't tell me they weren't sending the forms anymore. Nice. What I find amusing is the amount of people who just pay 10% of the selling price and don't have a clue. I did this for quite a while til I found out the real story. They won't tell you any of this stuff up front. The form is even structured to show just a straight 10%. I never went back for previous years as I figured my time was worth more but I estimate I threw away ~2k to these guys that didn't have to be. Dad always told me learning wasn't cheap.

dlaery that is correct I will disagree on paying this without a ein number. I was told explicitly I needed to get the ein number (and yes also no employees) I have found personally the irs people are very willing to help you with issues. Unfortunately there are not alot that know much about this excise tax though. Many have to go read up on it to give you an answer on something. All I care about is to pay what is owed..don't want to scare anyone away, people should do this right if they want to be in the business..as said previously there's more that don't do this legit and that hurts everyone. Hi Bob merry xmas!

You will sit down with the irs agent when they get your 637. Ask lots of questions. There is some disinformation here and online about this tax and how you pay it. It's dependent on whether you are a wholesaler, retailer, or both. To paraphrase the IRS and you can read this freely online.. You pay excise tax on any item/lure/bait or component that makes a part of an item/lure/bait that is meant to attract, entice, other otherwise increases the effectiveness to induce a fish to strike it whether or not it has hooks. Anything over 150 lbs strength is tax exempt, as is anything exported. You want to purchase excise tax exempt because you cannot legally deduct the excise tax previously paid from the cost of a bait/lure sold. Ie if you buy a unfinished jig and finish it, any excise you pay to buy the jig cannot be deducted from the excise you are required to pay on the sale of the finished product. If the item is wholesaled you pay excise tax on the sale price (10%) If the item is retailed you pay excise tax (10%) on the constructive sale price using the IRS 60% rule. If you are a retailer and wholesaler, ie you sell direct and you sell to tackle shops, you must have a set wholesale pricelist for every year, and you pay the lesser amount of either 10% of constructive sales price or 10% of the wholesale price. Disclaimer I'm not an accountant so do your own research. I went to the IRS 12 years ago with questions and got in touch with the guy who wrote the IRS "excise handbook" if memory serves me he was in Michigan or Wisconsin. He told me how to properly do this and then sent me all the IRS court cases that they use/base on to collect this tax. US vs Diawa etc etc. I've been audited numerous times, got nothing to hide. Dad is a CPA and taught me to do stuff right. Like said here previously pay the tax and don't look back. In my case I pass through the tax and I make people pay what's required to be paid on the sale as a separate line item. It's a pass-thru tax. When they audit you it's a pain in the rump they want copies of everything right down to your underwear size. To me it's a waste of a complete day's time because I pay it right. They need to start enforcing some of this bs of all the underground stuff at shows and in shops etc. I see way too much of this going on daily.. I've called alot of guys out online in forums for doing it and wouldnt say it if it wasn't true. Guys don't realize that 100% of this tax goes back to fund state f&w programs. Ramps, stocking programs, kids programs, epo's etc. The best reading you will find on this is http://www.irs.gov/Businesses/Small-Businesses-&-Self-Employed/Field-Directive-Federal-Excise-Tax-on-the-Importation-and-Manufacture-of-Fishing-and-Archery-Products I would not advise paying any excise tax until you get your ein and register. I would advise seeing an accountant on this and not take message board posts as business advice I would highly recommend you not sell anything until you've had the advice of a good CPA.

Get an EXCISE tax number from Cincinnati and do it right from the start. MOST don't and the penalties are steep. The amount of guys who sell under the table in this industry is disgusting. Easy to find this stuff these days on the internet. Don't overpay for what you think is a business. You are not going to make the money you think. Fishing lures is a tough business to compete in. Don't plan on being a millionaire Lastly....TEST TEST TEST and make sure the stuff is bulletproof before you start selling. Give people the best and nothing to complain about and your stuff will sell itself.

What he said.

People want to give me lures all the time. My standard answer...I'm the first national bank of lures and you want to give me a lure?

heh?

If you want to pay the shipping I'll give you a box.

hehe yep there isn't any mistakin your not an imposter

Hey Snob how ya been I got some tin for you

Tin has almost doubled in price in the last 2 years. Just around $20 a lb now. It pours real nice, you want to make sure your using virgin tin. Fluxing is a art with this stuff. There's not many lead fluxes that work well with tin, and you want to keep your pot clean. Cast iron melting pots don't work. The tin gets too easily contaminated with rust flakes coming off the pot. I think I read somewhere that it's acidic and causes this reaction. It's a must to use a stainless pot and stainless ladle. Spray mold release works well and you can clean your parts with boraxo hand soap.

I believe so. It's used in alot of stuff.

btw createx is solvent based paint. It's got ethylene glycol in it as a solvent. It's not much more friendly than lac paints to your lungs. Respiratory protection still required... There isn't a "set" reducer rate for createx. You thin it for what you want to shoot. Createx is thin enough to shoot typically out of the bottle. The smaller the line you want though the smaller the tip and the more thinning it needs.

There's all your different viscosities. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ca-glue.aspx Stuff I use is similar to this but is from an industrial adhesive supplier out west. It's also more expensive than this stuff but it works. I've tried the flexible for gluing eyes and lips in but it doesn't work all the best.