Tubeman

Just ordered my blades last week lol, I did some tubes with the 3D eyes today....very easy to do. I've disected a few of the Basstrix paddletail swimbaits and I can see why they are so expensive (apart from the demand which has inflated the pricing). There are 4 separate layers in most colour schemes and the scale detail is done with a rub on stencil, not sprayed. Also the pearls and irridesent powders used are both brushed/stenciled on as well as mixed in in certain layers. The guy that created these is truly an artist, not many will be able to copy his technique. I think he will be safe for a while as the time and effort to taken to create this bait will have high labour costs. I'm still going to give it a shot

It should work no problem, I 've done it with a few different manufactuers.

As usual, Nova ...impecable pourmanship...ya I know, I just made that word up lol

Del, I was talking to a tackle distributer yesterday and he mentioned the first run of Flappin Hogs had run in to an infringment on another manufactuer in the states, so they had to be sent to Japan to be sold there. Yamamoto then changed either the design and or the name and re released it again.

Wow, I had a look at Kamakazee's site, very nice baits !

my pots are at 320 for stick baits, 350 for tubes...any more and it will brown out even it is agiatated.

George, we watch the World Fishing Network here in Canada. They often will air Bream and Bass tournaments with Steve Starling as the host. The shows are like a mini FLW series.

Or check the TU classifieds... 4" buzz frawgs 9 molds left

#306 Curl Tail worm from Lurecraft is one of the best I have used. Not a pretty worm, but it has the most amazing action. Also makes a great jig trailer when the body is chewed up.

Hey Guys, I messed around with a few colors last night and I think I got er close. Al, the one I'm trying to copy is # 131 on the current Yamamoto color chart but # 241 is the closest base color. I'll post the results on the color sticky later. Thanks Del, I'll try that too.

Does anyone have a reciepe for this color ? Thanks !

Great looking bait Sidewinder. You mentioned an interesting point about Mattlures and the craftsmanship that goes into his baits. If anyone was to learn anything about selling your own baits, look at Matts...very unique and hard to copy (because of the time and effort required). His talent as an artist as well as the molds he's designed is what sets his baits apart fron the others.

Hi Jim, yes Laurie has told me how great your baits are as well ! Also on your generousity / involvement with Ontario's BASS casting kids program Thanks for helping out bud, it's much appreciated Wannabe, I figured that...just easier to chat on a first name basis. Tje, preheating really speeds things up. I've never tried a deep fryer...the most important thing is to have a stable heat source as well a mixer running constantly in between dips.

area 51 ...its just a bearing press with exacto blades that cuts one tube at a time....its the operator that makes it fast not the machine...maybe up to 500 an hour if you have someone to pick the tube tails for you. Also, try doing a search on this site for an arbour or bearing press, there is a picture of one from another member. Wannabefishing, who are you ?

Jim, that pressure pot of yours should be able to shoot those molds with some venting ??

No problem, I see Mattlures posting. He's probably the one to ask about this stuff. Hey Matt, any tips for us novices or is it still a secret remember this is TU where we share info.....

Ok, here goes... 1) Keep it simple and consistant...buy a tube formula, all the plastisol retailers carry one (about 35-40 durometer hardness) 2) I hear Fry Daddies are the least expensive way to start if you are going to dip vertically. Other options are Rite Heat or Sta Warm pots, 500-800 dollars. 3) I buy my 1/4 aluminium rod from a specialty metal dealer. 20 ft of it dirt cheap...30 bucks and you can make a lot of rods. If thats too much go to Home Depot and they usually have a bin of assorted diameter rods. If its possible thread 3/4 to 1" of the rod and use a nut on both sides to secure it to a plate...its bullet proof and most of all safe ! Nothing worse than a loose rod with hot plastic falling in your lap 4) Now this sounds too easy and after you try it you'll see why. Set your pot temp around 340 and make sure the plastisol is agitated to suspend the salt (about 10-20 % by volume is good) You can you a paint mixer on a drill, but you have to stir alot or the salt will settle and burn your plastic. 2 dips for the body and another 1 half way for the head, wait about 30 seconds between dips (longer for a thicker tube)....its that simple. You can coat the rods in a light film of worm oil or most silicone sprays, to ensure the tubes will slide off after you dip them. The hardest part to learn is how fast you remove your dipper from the pot.....slow is best, then quickly remove the dipper and turn it upright to stop the plastic from running...you'll learn this through trail and error, it's not something you'll master right off the bat. There you go, thats all there is to it ...now get at it and show us some tubes

You need to use Toulene. This the solvent commonly used to thin the vinyl paint we are air brushing our lures with. I'm pretty sure it will work wtih LC's vinyl paints (Color Tech) They do sell that paint by the 1/2 gallon and gallon at Lurecraft as well. Its shipped by UPS as Hazardous Material when you get into quantities over 4 oz.

Very cool bait, I have not seen a craw/creature bait the has both paddle tail like action and the glide /spiral fall of a tube or beaver style bait. I tried a serach on the web...no go in the US...perhaps Asia ?? or is really a unreleased bait that has fallen into the hands of TU...even worse Del

Man, this is well kept industry secret !

Hi all. I'm on a quest to find the manufacturer of the soft plastic paint that Lurecraft sells (or anything similar). I have grown past the point of buying 4 oz bottles from them and need to buy in much larger quantites. If anyone is willing to share a source, it would be greatly appreciated and kept confidencial...a pm from anyone would be awesome

Nova, is right, you need to have that tail at least as deep as the belly or more and about 1/3 wider than the widest section of the body...then she's gonna dirty dance

Bubbah, your method will work way better than using a cutting wheel. I tried it and your right about the lack of control. Del's hack saw blade method is the safest and easiest. I can never seem to stop experimenting with that Dremel though, just made a wooden model of a new jighead for my swimbait "Shadzilla" that should go 3 to 4 oz.

Del,your right it all depends on user experiance. My cutter wheel is made of a fiber reinforced material, is about 1 1/2 inches in dia, 1/8 thick and will not shatter. I have enough time in using it to slot aluminium with a fairly straight line and with a few lightly pressured passes you should have a small channel made. You could also use a small piece of plate steel as a guide to keep the cut straight. For those that have the extention flexible wire shaft, that might even be easier use. As for the safety precaution, I would think most people would have the common sence to wear safety glasses and gloves when using power tools. A bur tool will not work, it will load up to quickly and you will not find one small enough to cut a channel that small without getting clogged. I'll try it out and post my results, just trying to help out