Tubeman

Instead of a hack saw...why not a Dremel tool with a abrasive cutting wheel, seems more accurate ?

9/0

Ive been dealing with Shawn for 6 months now. Great service and no one pays as much attention to detail. That man can make a mold of anything and it will look identical to the master. Mind you a do it mold is far cheaper, but everyone and his dog has one

I'm working on a jighead this week, it will have to put in the shad along with a stinger wired on 150 lb downrigger wire

Just did a few quick pours from our new Shad mould. We had a wooden model carved and painted. Its was covered with RTV silicone in a pine frame, the 13" shad used around 3 pounds of silicone !!! Nil, your right about getting the tail out...the wooden model took lots of care to get the tail section out. Now its time to design a good jighead that can be added when the lures is poured.

I also have a mega sized shad body we are going to be producing soon for the Musky market. One is 9" and the other 13" ! The first silicone molds will be ready tomorrow and I'll post my first pour shortly thereafter. I will have the hooks poured into it as well, just need to get the jighead design finished

Barlows makes an interesting statement that these injection shad bodies look more realistic than painted ones. They must be talking about Action Plastics stuff. Funny, I think painted hand pours like Mattlure's sunfish are way more realistic looking...just my opinion

A paddletail is the key when targeting fishing that are looking for a horizontal swimming jig presentation. We use half of our 8.5" paddletail worm (Lurecraft mold). It has so much tail action...really mimics a swimming baitfish. And too think I tried it as a last resort on a day when the fishing had died off. A long cast from shallow to deeper water produced a 4lber, moved out there ...then maked another under the front of the boat...dropped the jig down...another 4 !! Now I'm a believer

Ted, if have a lid on your pot....you will get oil condensation on the inside of it from the plasisol. That condensation will discolor and scorch more quickly that the plastisol. This is why I don't use lids on my pots anymore, I realize pressure pots are quicker though.

Hey Guys, sorry about the late reply...burnt out from too much pouring lately. Yes the White Pearl was a success !! The stuff is incredible for stabilizing plastisol over long periods of time. As Del said. its got nothing to do with bubbles. If you are using mixer with your production pot, any bubbles created for any reason will evaporate within 10-15 minutes anyway.

I talked to Calhoun last week about a problem I have been having with my plastisol discolouring (turning brown) if its been in my production pot for a couple of hours. Paul told me about an additive they use to stabilize the plastisol so it could be heated for upwards of 8 hours !!! Now I dont know the exact name other than its a derived from Soy Bean oil. You only have to add 4 oz to 5 gallons. This is not the heat stabilizer that is used to offset the initial start up heating. I can tell you the stuff is magic, I have tested it with flouresent colours and it works great. Today we are going to test it out in tube plastisol for a run of Pearl White...a colour that will reveil any plastisol discolouration very quickly. I'll post my results later on today, keep your fingers crossed.

Has anyone here ever attempted to sell baits pre rigged like the Kelly Worms ? If so could you do a short explaination of the threading technique ?

Arron, if you live close to Toronto this is the place I purchase from Composites Canada 5205 Timberlea Blvd. Mississauga, ON Canada L4M 4Y8 here's there website http://www.compositescanada.com/ I use the GI 1000 found under the mold making products page. Give them a call and ask for Arron lol...he's the guy I deal with.

I've been pouring now for 5 years and have my own soft plastic company. One thing about doing it yourself is that you can only get to a certain level of sales/exposure unless you have lots of cash flow. Working with larger companies has many advantages and requires a lot of work as well. I have read articles in Fishing Tackle Retailer about guys that have gone that route. One was a fellow who invented a swimming jig and "pitched it" to Pradco. He was successful and they are now carrying his deisgn. The article also mentioned he's still not rich lol, so its not like your going to be living large.

From what I understand, 3G does have masking additives they can add to their plastisol. I have talked to their sales rep a number of times and he assured me it is available. That would make it easier for you as it gets added at the factory.

I might be able to do them. I would need to see a high rez picture to be sure. Our price for a custom order, 250 tubes for 120.00 USD

Hey guys, please don't take this as a negative comment. Until you have dipped tubes in bulk amounts, the time and effort that goes into them warrants .35 a piece. I won't do them for any less than .39 CND on wholesale pricing which is about .35 US. You might think about doing them yourselves to add more income to your bottom line, that might the best way to go about it if you have the time. When you see the amount of small business tackle shop owners that go under, you'll realize that marketing someone elses product is not the safest/secure way to do business. Best of luck on your new ventures ! Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas and Safe New Year to all at TU !

That's the one to use for sure !

Prices are now up on our website and most of the stock is in place. Please be paitent until we get things rolling. All prices are in Canadian funds.

We will soon be selling plastisol in Canada from Canada. I'm thinking within the next month or so. Just need to get our containers and will start shipping. Pricing will be comparable and fair to any US resellers

Steve, Sta-Warm are excellent pots. We are running 2 of the 12 quart capacity hot pots and they are well worth the 800 dollars (cnd funds) each. Our next venture will probably be pressurized pots to step up production. Does anyone have one yet ?? If so are there advantages over regular hot pots. Thanks,

You can use both tin and platinum catalyst silicones for making molds, lures I don't know. I think tin is a little less sensitive to contaminates and its less expensive. I believe the silicone that Lurecraft sells is a tin catalyst silicone. I would think silcone would tear easier than plastisol ??

Hey Zack, here's the info for on your glitter manufactuer Polycryl Corp. 1696 Barcrest Drive Memphis Tn 11769 1 800 366 6205 Contact Mary Jane, Reita or Rich Davis I have bought holi glitter there and they do sell aluminium glitter in purple, in fact they told me that was the way to go with purple and red. I think they have a 1 pound minimum or maybe its 10 pounds now.

Hi Andy, we use Sta-Warm pots for pouring our Stick worms (Del's) and it takes about 8-10 seconds to pour each worm. We use LOTS of salt in this pot and have yet to see a rust problem of any kind, might be because it get cleaned out after each use. I fear that using a pressurized pot will put a person at risk of getting sprayed with hot plastic, as I understand it the operator would have to hold the mold against the nozzle...I would be cautious with that one. We also use Rite Hete pots to dip our tubes from. An excellent choice for dipping, not pouring. We got a heated nozzle attached to one Rite Hete pot and its not the best idea for pouring into one sided molds as the nozzle is too close to the pot. As for a stirring device, get a drill press and it will more than suit your needs. We purchased a model that runs between 240 - 2000 RPM. You can set it to different speeds to suit the level of plastic in your pot. An example using a 2 1/2 gallon Stawarm pot filled to 2 inches below the rim - 700 RPM, 1/2 filled 450 RPM...this allows you to stop any cavitation cause by running at too high a speed with too little plastic. Hope this helps