Tubeman

I saw this note 3 days ago and wanted to ask the same question as Del, If you can squeeze me in I'd appreciate donating some dazzling plastics to the exchange...either way its ok... If its a problem for others having to make too many baits, count me in to send ...I really dont have to get anything as this site has helped me out alot. Let me know Merc

Hide. sounds as if you are dealing with a different material. The one SR and I are using is not compatible with plastisol pigments, you can only use powdered pigments. Is there a web site that sells or has info on this Gel ? Thanks !

I have the brush hog mold..its very close to the original. Works well too !

Basscat, you have to be logged to view the pictures

Well Del, you finally motivated me to update my site. I think renaming senkos to your own original name can actually benefit you in the long run. We chose "Quiver Sticks" because the action imparted via the ultra soft plastic and salt. I removed all wording involving Yamamoto directly, better safe than sorry. Thanks!

Hey Del, I made up a camo color for a customer this spring. It looked like a Berkley tube, here's the dope.... Tubeman's Magnetic Wammo Camo 1 cup plastic 9 drops rootbeer 13 drops amber 8 drops carmel small red glitter 1/2 tsp (estimated) small green glitter 1/2 tsp (estimated) salt to desired consistancy Out of all the colors I have tried to re-created, this one is the closest I have every come. All colors came from Lurecraft.

I dont think there is a website. The phone # is 1-706-629-9077 ext 128 Chuck Ruth is the sales rep.

The other great thing that makes Calhoun different is they will match custom plastisol formulas for you. I had them mix up a custom batch of tube plastic (55 gal) and all my tubes now have the perfect consistancy (no more mixing softner/hardeners). They also sell softner,hardener and worm oil at prices far below Lurecraft.

let me guess Del, you put the cover on after every trip to keep the leaves out .....ok bad joke...

Hey Del, let me know how the super plastic works..I'm awaiting a gallon as well.

I dont sell it, but Lurecraft will ship to you in Canada. I have had no problems getting plastisol, glitter and colors via air mail. We were in the process of researching the idea to resell plastisol, but legislation and potential liabilities made it an unwise venture.

I like to use blue hilite powder in strawberry red to get a tequila sunrise. It also works well with a small amount of amber or black.

Hi John, I also find they are abit dull. Oiling them on every second pour seems to really help and you can add scent to the oil. The Replicast resin mold turned out real nice except for a few small bubbles. I think this problem happens when the resin cures so fast, leaving the air no time to escape. I think the only way to get a shiny mold is to go to metal molds like Del's. Another way is to put abit of oil in the packaged product, alot of larger manufactuers seem to do that.

I've been experimenting with a couple of epoxy resins for making hand pour molds (one sided). Two companies I would recommend are Adtech from CASS polymers and PTM & W industries. http://www.casspolymers.com/adtech/adtech_products/epoxy_casting.htm Adtech's is a slow curing resin with very low exotherm (heats up very little during cure unlike polyester resin). I make my molds out of styrofoam meat trays with a piece of 1 inch strofoam under it. This way I can pin the baits down. I cut the heads of the pins and push them right into the plastic so you wont see anything but a small dimple. This resin copies the baits exactly and is the toughest material....its damm near bullet proof. Another resin I just poured is from PTM & W industries out of Sante Fe Springs,CA. It's product, Replicast 612 is very similar to Adtechs. The biggest differance is that it cures in 10 minutes !. I demolded in 40 minutes and it was ready to use. It needed no release sprays prior to pouring the mold (found that one out by accident :oops: ). I'll be trimming out the scrim and testing it this weekend, I think it will work very well. http://www.compositesworld.com/sb/name/P/828 Epoxy resins are more expensive, about 140 for a 1 gallon kit, but they are so durable,copy extremely well and are designed to withstand lots of heat.

From what I have heard about bags, polyethelene ?? will allow oxygen to permiate the contents, no matter the thickness. Thats why you need a vapour barrier made of a different plastic...which one...I cant remember. I think this vinyl label idea is great, thanks for sharing SR.

Hi All, I too am using Calhoun and have worked my way through half of my first 55 gallon drum. Like Chris I had nowhere to put it, let alone get it off the back of my pick up (450 Pounds). I saved all the 5 gallon containers from Lurecraft and cleaned them out. I mixed the drum throughly and hand scoop it all out, messy yes, but now its easier to mix and work with. One interesting note about Calhoun is they will take a sample of a mix you have (raw) and duplicate it's durometer(hardness). I was always having to mix up formulas hoping for the same consistancy, now its the way I like and my customers do to. I deal with Chuck Ruth and he is very knowledgeable on plastisols. I would recommend this company to anyone. Chris is right about their plastisol, it stands up to heat well, floats salt and glitter much better (less stiring) and is way cheaper 290.00 for 55 gallons....give it a try, you'll be glad

Hey Del, yours look pretty good to me. As for the tourneys, from how you describe the lakes you fish, sounds like it would be tough for anyone. With very little cover, bank fishing is probably what most guys do. Your day will come ....and I changed my handle to Tubeman as I dont have an aluminum boat anymore....but I got a heck of a lot of tubes now

I like those colors Del ! I think they will fool Mrs Bucketmouth for sure. I've been doing a few more laminates as well and have found a way to short cut the process slightly. When you pour the first half, start at the tail and work your way to about a 1/4 inch from the head and then go backwards stopping the pour. The plastic will flow almost to the front of the cavitiy on its own even though you stopped abit short of the end. This way you dont have to trim off any excess before you close the mold to pour the second color. I tried putting the salt in the blender and it turns it into powder very easily. Adding salt powder makes the sinkos more durable. They turn out abit more whitish and opaque, but you can add more salt which makes them heavier.

I have three 2 part Stik molds form Del. Having poured close to 10000 baits so far, I have yet to see any oxidation from salt. You wont get a better made mold for that price anywhere. Dels molds helped us place 5th in a B.A.S.S. open tournament today. We used the 4.25 " stik bait (sinkos as we sell them as) in a watermelon with red fleck...a really hot color in Ontario this year. I think either the 5.25 or the 4.25 will sell really well for you and its got to be the easiest bait to make. Good luck and have fun !

We use evaporated seasalt from Cargill out of MN. Its untreated and does not cause any bubbling (due to moisture content, I think). I have to vouch for Del's stik molds.We must have poured 10000 so far and they are still in mint condition. We just started using Calhoun plastic this month and we are very pleased. It seems to float glitter and salt much better that previous plastisols we used and the smell is minimal. The grinding of salt is a great idea, will try it today !

Thanks to DelW for locating this site for me. I used to be tinman, found a more suitable handle.