Tubeman

10" worms are sold as well

4.5" Beavers are gone

If it was hand poured that took some skill

No problem Yes, the paint will stay once it it set. The only thing I have found is if you spray white over browns,pumpkinseed or any other plastisol colorant that bleeds, it will discolor the paint over time.

Because plastics exude oil soon after they are set (after about a week) you'll need to rub those store bought baits with rubbing alcohol to get the oily film off the plastic. That is why your paint is not adhereing properly. You can also use the thinner that is used with this paint sparingly as it will turn your baits to goo if you use to much.

I've got a mold these for sale on classifieds. They are way better than the screw in style belly weighted hooks. quote=D.J.;135397]I was going to use these type of hooks:Blade-Runner Swim Bait Insert Weighted Hook I used these a few times with some different baits and they are awesome. I think they get a better hook up ratio than your standard hooks. Of course if you are throwing it into cover, you would have to use the standard weighted swimbait hook.

That border is a scary place When we ship within Canada by post office every parcel has a tracking number and delivery is near 100%

I have the following 2 part hand injection molds for sale. They produce excellent quality baits, all you need is a 1/4" nozzle metal syringe available on ebay for $20. or I can sell you one of mine for $10. 10" Power Worm 5 cavities - 4 molds $100. each or 350 for all 4 4.5" Beaver with Flapping Craws 3 cavities - 8 molds $100 each or $ 350 for 4 or more Keel Weighted Hook for hollow body swimbaits. This internal weighted hook increase the action of swimbaits dramatically. - 2/0 Mustad 60 degree jig hook fits 3-4" - 4/0 Mustad 60 degree jig hook fits 5-6" $100 each These molds are being sold to make room for new baits in our line up. The weed weasel (beaver) and keel weight can be found on our website www.bassmagnetlures.com. I will try to make the shipping as cheap as possible, Thanks, Mike

Thanks for the plug Nils & Del http://www.bassmagnetlures.com/2008/components.asp we have lots of plastisol on hand, just rec'd 200 gallons last month.

That's one of the nicest tube molds I have seen, great job

Smallie, once the plastic is semi formed and warm it will likely hold 95 % of the shape of the mold it came from. It's when the thin part of the lure, like the tail on a swimbait that is bent for a few weeks, it will deform to the postion it was twisted in. We use clamshells for all our swimbaits and have recently purchased a custom shell for our 9.5" Shadzilla. When someone pays the price for a hand dipped swimbait, you want a pack it so it runs true....return customers are key

Dave mentioned plastic temps, if they were lower the colors would not mix as much.

The easist way to do this is with a tube tail cutter. You can buy an inexpensive one at Lurecraft, this one is fine for personal use. For larger volume, an arbour press with a set a larger set of blades would be quicker. Keep in mind you will need to pull the bait out slowly as the plastic used for stick baits is softer than what is used for tubes. Also use worm oil to lube the blades, this keeps the tails from sticking as much.

Ashley needs to be adopted by WFN, she's a young lady in our Bass Club trying to win a contest on the World Fishing Network. To vote for her video click the link below Ashleys Pathetic Plea :: Adopt an Angler | World Fishing Network Thanks TU members for voting !!

Just shot some baits last night and I have some new advice. I remembered Shawn Collins telling me it was continuous pressure that used in large scale injection machines to stop any denting (others have probably mentioned it as well) So after each mold had filled I pushed down on the plunger for another 20-30 seconds so the bait had a chance to set under pressure....presto 95 percent of the denting was gone !! I don't know how the plastic syringes will hold up to this so be careful. I use a custom machined metal hand injector that will not burst under pressure.

I'm about the same, maybe as low as 300 with Calhoun...any lower and I get incomplete lures. Maybe I need bigger pipes to hold that pressure until the plastic cools

Just ordered my 3rd Rite Hete pot last week. They make an excellent product for a fair price. I would say Rite Hete is more suited for dipping as compared to a Sta Warm as the walls are better insulated and you can actually lean on them when dipping tubes. I have 2 Sta Warms and they are a great pot for bottom pours, just harder to keep clean as the liners are cast aluminium (trick is to sand them with a fine sandpaper to get a smooth surface, then plastic & glitter will peel out like a Rite Hete) You can't lean on the edge of a Sta Warm as the walls are thinner and have very little insulation...they get very hot.

My experiance is the thicker the bait, the more likely your going to get dents. Plastisol shrinks slighlty when it cools. This is why you get a slight depression on open face hand pour molds if you don't fill them up enough. I've found that I get better results if the molds are fairly hot and demolding takes place as soon as possible. I leave the bait in the one half of the mold and let it cool. This way as shrinking does take place, it's more evenly distributed. Like Del mentioned, if you have any air bubbles at all you will get dents. The key is to slowly inject with as low a temp as possible into a warm mold.

Hi Plop, yes it's sold pending payment. If anything changes I'll let you know. Thanks, Mike

After talking to a few of the industry reps from Pure Fishing (Gulp) and Rapala (Trigger X) at the spring fishing shows I found NONE of them knew how long it would take for their baits to bio-degrade in water. It's all marketing that gets people to believe a white lie...yes its probably more bio degradeable than plastisol, but how much better is it for the environment. These products are so new, not even the manufactuers know the long term effects on the environment. It all comes down to money and how to manipulate customers by feeding them politcally correct information

If you could get that pigment mixed in a Colortech clear base, I'm sure it could be air brushed on to finished plastisol. Since that paint is flexible and meant for soft plastic, it should work. Only thing that scares me is the price of the chrome paint.