Fishinrev

It's the sharp transition/edge/corner between the end of the bait and the vertical sprue. Bubbles need very little to hold them from smoothly rising to the top. Had that large bubble found a smooth transition at that particular intersection, it would have slipped around the corner and continued upward. There should be a radius instead of a sharp edge. You can create that by using a hand "deburring tool" that machinists use, or just using a very fine sandpaper and rounding the edge over. Don't over due it. Just getting rid of the sharp edge is all that is needed. Even a small polishing tool in a electric hand rotary device may be enough. That's my 2 cents worth...

No one doubts that fish use the sense of smell and taste in determining what is or isn't food. But I have never been sold on the marketing sales pitch that fish are "attracted" to a presentation that utilizes a particular scent. After 40 years of angling for bass, my experience tells me that my catch ratios do not go up or down because I use (or do not use) manufactured scent on my baits. What I DO believe is that there are human-made chemicals that will turn fish off - especially those often found on the anglers hands. (Gasoline, sunscreen, etc.) So in my mind, what organic scents sold in bottles (or gel form) may actually accomplish is "Masking" the human chemicals that are transferred to our bait through our handling of them. Having said that, I also understand that the key component for success as an angler is "Confidence". Should someone use scent and it mentally provides them with additional confidence in their presentation, then just that cognitive advantage makes the smelly product valuable to that individual. So far the scientific studies and research have contradicting conclusions and have yet to satisfy the angling community with definitive means of settling this scent debate. However, whether the scent actually works or doesn't, the thing that most of us can agree upon... is that it can't hurt.

This is a Berkley Powerbait "The Champ Minnow" and it's only 3.4 inches long, but it has amazing detail in terms of it's paint job. My question is this; how is it done? What is the manufacturing process that allows such minute detail on such a little plastic bait? It's almost as if it is printed on, but if so, how do you print on a soft 3d object? Anyone have a theory I can explore? Inquiring minds want to know! lol By the way, I used these on a drop shot rig this weekend and caught 50-70 smallmouth in a day. And even though I had three packages (10/package) I eventually ran out because those "head-shaking" smallies would eventually fling them off the hook. This was Berkley's HD Bluegill pattern, but they have gobs of other realistic looking minnows as well. They are called "Tru Color" but how they are painted is beyond me! I know someone out there has the answer, so I thank you ahead of time. Tight lines!

In an interview I did with professional bass fisherman Randy Blaukat (see article CrankbaitCentral.com) he actually takes sand paper to his brand new Mega Bass lures to get rid of the gloss. Basically he says gloss attracts fisherman but that he catches more fish with scuffed lures. Interesting theory.

I've just recently started pouring my own lead weights, jigs, etc.. and what I have discovered is that Do-it is still a healthy and viable company, but other brands I see on E-bay have gone the way of the do-do bird. Still, does any one know if there are information resources on the web or in book form that describes the older molds and gives some history about them? Palmer and others are still out there on the E-bay market, but often the people who sell them give only a number with no data. (Sometimes I even see a Do-it mold that is no longer in the newest catelogs and I would love to know what makes it different or unique or defunct.) It would be nice to have resources to reference to. Do any references exist? Does some one collect old catelogs? Are there books out there?

It's been a long time since I tuned in... but the first thing I noticed is that I couldn't find the "tutorials" that help beginners get started. I assume that all got lost? I wish I had copied some of it so I could return it to you. I wonder if anyone else downloaded the tutorials - would that help?

Senko was first is all. Initially, they were so successful that most of us didn't care if the sales hype (about the secret salt content being the big factor) was accurate or not. Now that time has passed and some of us have branched out to experiment with other brands, (even making our own) we've discovered it's the presentation that makes it so successful. The slow vertical fall with just a little quiver from both ends is a killer! The greatest ingredient in this bait is confidence. After a day out on the lake like you had - you're a believer! (A believer in the presentation, that is, not in a brand name.) My hat still goes off to the Senko people for being innovative and the first, but my pocket book and the bass have convinced me alternative brands and homemade are just as successful.

Thanks Guys! Your advice was well received. I order and received my supplies this week. My first batch turned out great. I'm using spin casting to make 8 grubs at a time, and they look just like ones I used to buy in the store. I'm well pleased. Appreciate your input!

I too have just started pouring my first plastics from new Calhoun material (I've reused old plastics until now), and I'm curious about the smoking. From what I have read before I got the impression that ALL SMOKING was bad and to be avoided. Is this true? But if I kept the temperatuure down so that it was smokeless, the plastic was too thick. And yet, if I raised the heat setting to get the fluidity I needed I got smoke. (Not a lot, but enough to keep a fan busy). I too am using the Walmart heating plate - and it works OK. Did I get scorching? No - but I did get smoke. So - tell me, is that normal?

Sure, I know that it's totally subjective, but as a beginner who just ordered his first plastic, what would you suggest are the basic 10 colors to start with? I'm guessing... 1) Black 2) Green 3) Red 4) Yellow 5) Pumpkin 6) Watermelon 7) Motor Oil White 9) Black grape? 10) Brown? Do I need blue, purple, amber? Remember, I'm just starting and on a budget. What's your top 10 list? Appreciate your time and advice!

I use crankbaits down to 50 feet on Lake Washington for smallmouth all winter long, not by modifying the bait, but attaching the crank to a three way rig. The idea is as old as the hills, but most guys have forgotten about it since most bass tourniments won't allow slow trolling. But for the guy who enjoys fishing just for himself and likes to experiment, it works great! Basically, the line from the rod is tied to a three way swivel. One of the other swivel tie-ons is used to add a weight on a 18-24 inch leader. (Use a line a couple of pounds lighter than the main line so that if the weight snags you only loose the weight.) The other line tied on the swivel goes to the crank - also a 18-24 inch leader. My favorite and most successful crank is a shallow runner - the Rapala jointed minnow. But I've caught dozens of bass on numerous other cranks in the tackle box. (It's an absolutely deadly rig for mega perch in the fall, using a tiny crank.) Find a flat, turn your electric trolling motor on 4-5 (I find the faster speeds don't give the fish too much time to think about it, and you will get reaction strikes - though everyonce in a while the slower the better, even dragging the bait works). Use scent! Any bass fisherman who is patient enough to drag dropshot rigs can also drag this crank rig. Don't be afraid to use large weights to get down to those winter depths - I've used as large as 3 oz, to cover flats in 50 feet of water during the winter. (I try to keep the weight 6 inches to a foot above the bottom. Believe me - my underwater camera has shown me that any smallmouth in the area will come tp check it out.) And remember, if it's following your bait, dropping the rig back occassionally will cause the crank to suddenly appear in it's face, and often get a reaction bite. But this technique also works great in summer when the larger fish move back out after the spawn into the summer and fall in deeper lakes. Believe me, it works just great in 20-30 feet of water. My local bass club doesn't have the "no trolling" clause and I've used it very effectively on those hot summer days when everything in the shallows closes down. The larger fish in deeper water doesn't seem to be as affected by fronts coming through. Believe me - it works! It isn't as exciting for the type A fisherman who needs to be casting every 5 seconds, but it is one more tool to add to your arsenal. The bait is always in the water, at the right depth, and nothing covers a flat quicker! I could go on and on about this technique, but the fact is - it's easier to attach the crank of your choice to a deep three way rig than modify cranks to go deeper. Well, that's one opinion anyway.

Just out of curiosity, I was looking at some of the creations that combine natural rabbit fur/feathers, etc.. with plastics - any of you ever tried it? Any luck? What are some of the tricky manufacturing challenges you ran into? Obviously it would slow down production levels, but still... for personal use - it opens up some creative possibilities!

I'm sitting here thinking - "Wow, why didn't I think of that?" When you try this, be sure to let us know how it worked - you've really peaked my curiousity. If you're going to make more that one or two - I'd glue your boards together first and then you can place your pattern down, mark it, and cut out all three layers at the same time - after they have dried. I hate doing anything three times when I can do it just once. Again, let us know how it works!