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earthworm77

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Everything posted by earthworm77

  1. I noticed that as well and when I saw it, I said, close the mouth......it might have a lot to do with the issue you are having.
  2. regarding your screw length, you want as much thread into the meat of the bait as possible........basically use as long a thread as you can get away with......then epoxy it in so it never pulls out. On a small bait like yours, I would opt for making through wires in the sections that have the eye screws.
  3. I'm a fan of masking tape and popsicle sticks on the reverse side of the bait.
  4. Brad point bits allow you to start a small precise hole in the center to line up your eye socket or ballast hole and then the outside edge follows it.
  5. I think in the grand scheme of things, the ability to track true and the ability to catch fish far surpass any thing else when it comes to determining what makes a good bait.
  6. when using pvc and employing wire through construction, simply take your wire and heat it with a torch, once hot it will literally melt into place. Pop both halves of the bait together while it is hot and it will form a channel on both sides. Once you are ready to make it permanent, simply devcon it together.
  7. why not clear dip it? problem solved
  8. the facts that there are several, if not many chemical compounds that go into making plastic would make it next to impossible and certainly not cost effective to make it yourself as a hobbyist. It's not like you have these thing under your sink to just throw together.
  9. one or two drops of black mixed into the pearl silver powder should do.
  10. I have 2 Bob's 5.5" Fat Stick molds, each is a 4 cav mold that can be top poured or injected. The bait is about 3X the diameter of a standard 5" Yamamoto Senko. 60.00 each tyd might consider trade for CCM Mad Dad molds
  11. I am looking at both sizes, the 3.75 and the 4.25". Does anyone know what size hooks they can handle. I'm looking to flip them on a Trokar 5/0 or 6/0. I'm sure the 4.25 can handle that but can the 3.75" handle them as well?
  12. I am looking for the following jig head to meet these specs: 1/8oz ballhead -weed less with wire weed guard or twisted wire weed guard -collar -powder painted black -needle point blk nkl hook like a thin wire mustad or Gammie looking for 100ct. please message me if you can do these.
  13. Heating the mold does help in my experience, not piping hot, just enough so the plastic doesn't cool too fast. Maybe 5 minutes on the griddle and then let it rest a few.
  14. I have 2 4" tube molds with mandrels. Excellent condition. 75.00 each
  15. Bryan try this......8oz plastic, 4 to 6 drops black, 2 drops lc watermelon blk flk. I persinally would use a butt load of salt because Venom does and that will surely give it a different look than w/o it
  16. Madeye, I think your safe. I do not think a patent can be enforced outside of the US. I have a mold of a popular bait and I know the bait is a product of Berkley Japan and the mold is not an infringement on any US patent.
  17. 1-Swim Frog mold. This mold is a 3.5" frog with lively legs(its closer to 4.5" when you take the legs into consideration). It is featured on the Bass Tackle Website. 1 cavity mold. make offer. Willing to trade for 2- 3.5 or 4" Kodiaks, a 4" Tube, 4 or 4.5" Frog molds from Bears, 6" trick worm (round). Let me know what you have, only interested in injection molds ty. http://www.basstackle.com/product_p/swimfrog.html I should also have a 5" Kodiak for trade later this week if you want to do a package deal of molds.
  18. some ppl talk about adding kineral oil to worms....that medium will harden the worms.
  19. earthworm77

    1st Attempt Motor Oil

    looks real good, almost like Roadkill Camo
  20. Someone sent me a mssg about the fat body winged hog.....its available, I accidentally wiped out my inbox and lost the mssg before I could respond.
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