earthworm77

Shame on me...California Blue and Strawberry would be welcome additions if you have the extra coin to get a few more.

In the first hand pouring book I wrote HP 101-I recommend the following colors for someone just starting out: Black, Watermelon, Green Pumpkin, Pearl(powder), Purple, Pumpkin, minnow silver and maybe Chart. Flake- Black, Red, Green, Holo silver, purple.

I can't help but think that even a thin coat sprayed through an air brush and allowed to dry will work out fine on the clear dip.

Giggity, Giggity- BraveViper- I'm not sure that BassTrix invented anything. I do think they put a nice package together to make those baits. I've used their products before. In fact I have a boatload of their Fat Minnow Sunfish which is a killer bait. It doesn't have a paddle tail but it is the same tube type bait only in an oblong sunfish shape. This bait is several yearsw old. I've always wanted to throw a paddle tail on it and even had a friend make me a CNC mold of it with the tail but of course it is solid when poured through the mold.

PLT- you might be on to something. When I was a little younger, I had a Trans Am with the full ground effects and spoiler package. Those parts were all plastic and needed a special flex paint that wouldn't crack. I've been thinknig that this paint might work but I haven't gotten around to checking it out. Frank, I'll be that the top is off of that black paint far more often than the other colors. That might be why it dries out faster.

Ward, there was an interesting article recently in FTR magazine that talked about Berkley/Pradco. They felt that the poeple who are actually designing and testing the baits should choose which ones go mainstream, not the guy in charge of the budget. It is definately a logical way to do things, unfortunately so many products are made based on how cheaply they can be produced.

Will you scent them with "Dog" as well?? Sorry about that. That looks great.

I believe it will gum up from the heat. Spray it with garlic Pam to get shiny baits. Keep it handy and you can respray.

Jim a long time ago, like when I was a kid, maybe 16 years ago or so, my fishing pal got a package from Bass Pro shops that had some experimental baits that they never officially released. On was a 5" gitzit shaped tube bait without the tails cut. In fact it was the exact shape of a Senko. I fished the bait on a split shot rig because it floated up off the bottom. It was deadly. I guess they just didn't think it would take off for them. Do you think it would be more effective to use a special mold to allow air in or maybe to use the tiny air bubble additive for floating worms? It is funny...this game. There are times when I am so blocked up I can't think of any ideas and then there are times when I have so many, I have to put them on paper before I forget about them.

I always add the pearl powder to already hot plastic. Never to cold.

Thanks Frank, I was hoping you would chime in. If I could get 6 months out of the chunk paint it would be about 5 1/2 more months than the Lurecraft stuff. Non bleeding formula is also a plus.

Careful with the wood. It can hold moisture and cause the plastic to bubble.

This is great dialogue. Maybe once and for all one of us will figure it out and then we will all know. It seems like this is the most closely guarded secret in the tackle making world. Id the Spike it Dip n Glow, the same as their bait paint? I've used the dip which is a dye and it does bleed. Senko Sam told me to try the paint. I have some ordered and I'll let you guys konw how it performed. This thread really took off. I don't think anything water based will work too well unless it has the ability to dry really fast.

OK, I read the other thread in which one guy posted some very nice photos but didn't give up any info on the paints/process. While I really enjoy sharing info, I do believe that there are some things that need to be kept secret and although I, myself would love to know what type of paint is used, I can understand why the poster neglected to let us in on it. We are talented and we are his competition. There are certain color formulas I will not give up to anyone, although I don't think I'd hang a carrot in front of anyone's nose and post photos of them here. No need to stir anyone up. Now, I have a little challenge for the guys who want to paint these new tube minnows......here is my idea...... do your regular dip then paint on a scale pattern using whatever paint you choose. My logic is that you are going to dip on top of that paint anyway so you shouldn't be too concerned with the paint cracking or chipping. Even though the bait is flexible, the paint would have nowhere to go if it chipped. It is sealed up under the covering dip. Now the only thing you need to worry about is if the paint will have a reaction with the plastic and the oils. This solution might just be a little easier than we think. I have painted plenty on soft plastics and I've always tried to use the "right" paint. Taking into consideration that all of my past work centered around paint on the outside of a bait with no protection or covering, I looked for a paint that had adhesive qualities to keep it on the bait. That crap they sell at lurecraft was decent for that but might not be necessary for this proceedure. I will get around to testing my theory. If anyone does try it, please let us know. I'm all for helping out if I can.

My traditional golden shiner color is a clear light smoke belly with gold flake and a slight bit of silver holo with a black back. Although I may try Mikes recipe with the GP. I know that is am killer color on Erie at certain times of the year when guys are trying to mimic emerald shiners.

It is a Lucky Strike bait. I think called the Scatter Shad.

Hope you feel better Randy. You are right about getting comfortable and then having accidents occur. Don't get complacent.

The ink may also be water based and may never truly dry.

jmik, this is why I thought it might be more feasible with a 1pc mold. I do think that in a 2pc, you run the risk of not getting enough plastic to the paddle tail. I might be totally wrong about it but I also thought that with a 1pc mold, you'd be able to do some kick A$$ multi colored pours.

Absolutely go with aluminum. Del's or Bob's makes the best IMHO

Here is an idea I'm throwing around to make some similar baits. I am thinking of a traditional 1 pc pour from the top mold. No problem to make. However, I think I am going to mold a slot in the rear end or tail end of the mold to hold a SS rod to create the hollow effect of the tube. This way, when the bait cools, I can pull the rod out and slide the bait off. Pouring this way will allow me to make a multi color bait the old fashioned way and it can still be painted. IMHO, it isn't all that necessary to have the entire lure be hollow. If you could get a 1/4" rod in there, that should make the tail work really nicely. Just an idea, any thoughts?

I don't think I've seen nicer colored swimbaits than the ones I've seen you pour. Man, I was lucky enough to win an eBay auction of yours in Holo Shad...I think. Good stuff bro!!! Those are some sick pours. Hey, try a Morning Dawn.

Call me old fashioned but I think the split tail would look great with the skirt in place of the tail.

I poured about 200 baits out of the mold today. Every one was perfect. I really like this mold. Everything about it works well. It isn't an exact copy of the Trick Worm as it has ribs and no flatened side. It makes a really nice bait.

Guys I've written no less than 16 or so books/CD-Roms-/eBooks on the subject of bass fishing. Generally I take a topic and write a very lengthy how to about it. I am putting the finishing touches on an eBook about hair jigs. I'm looking for anyone who would like to donate a few quality photos of their work. All submissions will list the source of the photo for credits. Thanks in advance. If you are interested, please pm me.