Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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Thanks for the response. I think I will clean it out and be more careful in the future.
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I’ve had mine for 3 or 4 years and have done a bunch of jigs. I flux when I add lead. I have a variety of lead types from plumbers lead to printers lead and even some physics balls. They all get mixed in depending on how hard I want the lead. I have never emptied it and cleaned it like the Lee pot that I had. It isn’t flowing fully. I ran a spinnerbait wire up it and nothing changed. Do you guys run yours out occasionally and clean them?
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As for blade selection, for night fishing on Bull Shoals in AR, I’ve done best with a silver blade and black skirt. When running a tandem, Colorado copper blades with red/black skirt and with a bright moon everything white.
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That can be someone else’s decision. Mine is finished.
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I don’t know that there is one. The only problem I could see is maybe stiffen the silicone and create flash which lead to the silicone in the first place. I don’t want to go down that road again.
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I checked it this morning to see if it would flake off the silicone, no. I used aQtip and acetone to clean part of it. Next time I think I will just spray then clean up with acetone. It will be a lot simpler.
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Taping was a pain but worth it I guess.
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I got the mold taped up and sprayed this morning. I’ll let it dry while I go fishing.
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Ted I have a silicone mold just laying around. I sprayed it and the dropout stuck to it and won’t wipe off so I guess I’ll do some taping before spraying.
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Cadman put me on to this several years ago. This stuff is great. I have cleaned and recoated several molds. However, I have a mold that I modified with high temp silicone and had to redo some of the cavities. In this process some of the drop out got removed. My question is: should I cover all of the silicone before spraying or just spray over it.
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It was in the hook eye socket. I got it out with a drill bit turned by hand. Then I redid it neater.
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So far cutting has not worked. I may have to start digging.
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On one of my mods I got too much silicone in the eye socket of a couple of cavities. I have tried a few unsuccessful ways to reshape it (knife, hemostats, WD-40). None of them have worked. Is there a way to get this stuff reshaped or am I going to have to dig it out and start over?
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It worked flawlessly today.
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I went ahead and filled the hook eye sockets I’ll check them out after it cures.
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I had that same issue with the original one and did the silicone. I have a more recent one and it works good. I guess I’ll put some silicone in the eye sockets and see if that cures the problem. I hadn’t considered cutting down the flow but had considered cutting back the temp. Thanks for the info.
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Mine isn’t bad just irritating. It is at the eye sometimes blocking half the eye. I may have to put some high temp silicone on it.
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I poured 6 dozen heads today 1/6, 3/32, and 1/8. Maybe 2 of the 1/16 had to be cleaned up. Several of the 1/8 and over 1/2 of the 3/32 needed attention. I am using the Victory hooks. I haven’t poured more than a half dozen at a time before. Those of you who have it what are you seeing.
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Bubbles/holes appearing in powder paint during cure
Jig Man replied to Blowtoad's topic in Wire Baits
How hot are you getting the heads before you dip? Do you knock off any excess paint before you bake? -
I’ve had good luck with the house brand at Lowes. You sure don’t want those from HF.
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Have you looked at the magnum at Barlow’s? https://barlowstackle.com/Shakee-Blades-Stainless-Steel-P727/
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Those look good to me. About your $30 toaster oven… mine cost $2 in a garage sale.
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I rarely heat over a 7 count. I want the coolest head that will paint to stick. I never want my jigs to be shiny when they go into the oven.
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Are there any molds out there that take this hook? I’m using the new ewg weedless Ned mold with good success. Victory doesn’t seem to have larher than size 1 while the similar VMC comes in a variety of sizes but I can’t find a mold.
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How hot are you heating the heads? By that I mean is the paint shiny or dull when you dip it? If it is shiny, try less heat on both coats. Dull finishes produce a thinner paint coat and are less likely to run.
