Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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I can’t really see to tell what you have. It for sure doesn’t look anything like the stuff I have from Bear.
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I have some injectors from Bear,s they seem indestructible. What is wrong with yours? if all you have is an injector then you will have some expense getting set up. Dave,s advice may be spot on.
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I use 20ga galvanized wire that I get at Lowe’s. Cut off piece lay it on the hook and wrap some thread around it. Put a little Krazy glue on it and you have a useable cheap bait keeper. I do that a lot with worm hooks and on some of my shaky jigs. i also make holders like the parasite clips.
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I don’t see why that wouldn’t work. I use a hot plate with a cast iron griddle on top of it. I also take a Qtip and oil those hard to shoot appendages which helps on the first few baits.
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Help on why I’m burning my plastic. I’m a newbie.
Jig Man replied to Jreid1996's topic in Soft Plastics
On new plastisol I only do 1 minute intervals and stir between heat cycles. On reheats I add stabilizer and do 30 second intervals with stirs after each but I am very OCD. -
I buy kosher salt and grind it with a coffee grinder.
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Have you tried taking 2 or 3 strands out and then checking the fit?
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I usually don’t wait more than a couple of minutes to demold. I pull them out and toss them into a pan of water.
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Try injecting slower and keep some pressure on the injector for a few seconds when done. That has been better for me than changing heat.
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I used to get them from Stamina Inc.
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I went through mine and got rid of ones that I seldom use. I'm down to a couple of dozen. I have a set of shelves in the back of the garage behind my boat. I keep my molds on the top of the shelves. I took a small paint brush and labeled the end of one handle on the molds so I can just read the name of the one that I want and pull it down.
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I like Calhoun plastisol.
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Mark I rarely make up even a cup because of reheats and color changes.
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Me too. I had problems with the Pyrex and tried the silicone. I have been using them for several years now. I still have the Pyrex in the closet but don't use them. I have the 2 cup size.
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I use a hot knife.
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As you heat it up it will become clear and get pretty thick then it will thin out again. I like to cook it a minute at a time and take it out and stir it. When it gets pretty thin I add color and glitter and stir it up well before I shoot or pour. You really should read the sticky "Don'ts for newbies".
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Personally I will take aluminum molds every time. You can use them for years and they will look just like they did when you bought them.
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It works well. I have made several from it.
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I have had great success with JB fixing boo boos when modifying molds.
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No. You need to grip it tightly to the hook so it can not slide then put a few tight wraps to hold it. I'll bet smalljaw has a video that will show you how he does it. You might look him up on You tube.
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Don't try to put it all on at once. Make several wraps before putting the hair in. Only put about 1/3 of the hair on and do a couple of wraps to hold it in place, move around the hook a bit and put another third on and do a couple of wraps, move to the last open space and put the last third on and finish wrapping.
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Tighter clamp less injection pressure should stop flash
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I don't clean my molds unless they have some kind of residue on them. When I rarely clean them I spray them with a solution of alcohol and water then wipe them down with a cloth. But like I stated that is rare.
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I work in an unheated garage. I have a cheap electric hot plate. I have a metal sheet on top of it. When I start getting ready to pour I place my injectors and molds on the metal sheet and turn on the hot plate. By the time I get the plastic ready to inject everything is good and warm (sometimes too warm). BTW: I try to pour and shoot around 315 to 330, less chance of scorching.
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I have tied thousands of bucktail jigs and never had any issues. I don't have any special bobbins. The only thread that I use if flat waxed Danville because I tie so tight that I break anything else that I have tried.
