Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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If you are getting in for cheap, don't go there. There is nothing cheap about pouring and all the extras that one needs to do it safely.
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Ben my Brittany provided several brown/white jigs a few years ago.
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I enjoy tying buck tail and craft hair a lot more than using living rubber and silicone tabs. If you ever add chenille to your jigs you'll find a good whip a must. Keep posting up your progress.
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Solving Pouring Problem With Do-It Molds Pouring
Jig Man replied to lbslures1's topic in Member Submitted Tutorials
I've not tried that. I just polish difficult molds then spray them with a release agent. -
Yes my friend that is so true. I got a bug about 8 years ago and tied up over 40 dozen. I'll never use all of them. Are you using a fly vise, bobbin and whip?
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That for sure looks about 1000 X better than my first buck tail jig.
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Look up surflon or sevelon. They are what I use. They come in various # tests. I use 90 for my purposes. You just need to fill the extra space by the entry to the weedguard. I do it with tape. I have used modeling clay but don't like the cleanup.
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Gate shears is all I use.
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The first thing you should do is mix your plastisol well. The hardner settles to the bottom.
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I did that cup insulator thingy a couple of years ago. I have 2 of them to keep the plastisol warm longer in the winter. I used foam and gaffer's tape. They only cover the bottom 1/2 of the cup but that is a full as I get them. They work pretty well.
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I switched to them a few years ago. I use them for everything except pouring swirls. The only drawback I've seen is they get slick on the bottom for some reason.
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I finally got it via Chrome. I have 2 levels of the mdf. The mold lays on the lower part and the upper part is shown holding the hooks.
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PaJay I just saw a pic from a guy in TN. He just opens a second mold and lays it down to hold the hooks level with the swing mold.
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I heat with a heat gun. I hold the hook in my hand while I heat the head. I only heat enough to get a dull powdery coat. I hold over the eye with needle nosed pliers and swish it through the fluid bed, hang it in the oven rack and bake when I have enough painted. 99% of the time I have no paint on the eye of the hook.
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My 2 layered board works like Cadman's attached one. The second layer is level with the mold and the hooks stay put. I'm sorry but I can't get the pic to load from photo bucket.
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I made a leveling block from some mdf that I had laying around. It solved my problem. For some reason I can't post a pic.
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Good luck to you Ben. Tying buck tails is more fun than using skirts but I have so many tied up that I haven't had to do any in years.
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Like he said www.fishingskirts.com.
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Most any you buy will be (cured/tanned) in some fashion. The ones that I use from our native deer I have cured with borax and salt. They still have a bit of smell but the cost if right.
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I use flat waxed thread for bucktails. Anything else I break when I pull the whips tight.
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I'd like to see a pic of that thing.
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I normally use a ball head with a 2/0-3/0 hook. I use from 1/16 to 1/4 oz depending on how deep I plan to fish it.
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X3 on;Super glue gel.
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Yep. It means that you mount the object and when you crank the handle the object will turn. But you still need a good whip to get good wrapping.
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Did you ever check out the stinger mold from Jacobs. It is 10 cavity and not very expensive. I bought one and it shoots very well.
