Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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I use cooking oil to lube my stuff.
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Sorry that was an early morning brain fart. I have no idea where that came from. I just bend the pins and the paint pretty much pops off. Then I scrape them with my thumb nail. When I want them really clean I soak them in acetone then wipe them with a paper towel.
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Lots of us have been there. The way I do it is I pour with Teflon pins that I bought from Cadman. I tried the metal and didn't like them. I leave the pins in, paint and cure the jig heads. Then I remove the pins and pop the paint off them. After I have the jig skirted and the eyes on I glue the weed guard in. Some guys remove the pins before they cure the heads. I use Loctite Super Glue Gel and have not had any problems. Just be sure not to overfill the hole before you put in the wg.
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My guess is distributed by a guy in TX or LA but prolly mfg in Vietnam.
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That happened to me on a root beer one last year. It is now more brown. I don't think they have much control over what they get from overseas.
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Cadman or smalljaw may be able to help you out.
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A good thing for molds is a release agent Cadman put me on to Frankfort Arsenal drop out. It corrected the mold issues for me in some of my Poison Tail cavities,
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I used to press garlic and add it to petroleum jelly or cooking oil but found it easier to just buy CB's Hawg Sauce.
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I buy some standard colors from Harbor Freight Tools Sales.
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I don't even remove the pins when I bake. It makes the paint break off easily when it is crusty.
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I've tried a few ideas to protect the wg and all of them failed so I powder coat with the Teflon pins in then add the wg the very last thing.
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Get some mold release like that Frankfort Arsenal.
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Sometimes I make molds from baits that I buy. That gives them a flat side as they are open pours. I hate using salt so when I want them to have salt I put it on the baits after I pour and the salt only is on the flat side. Maybe that is how they were doing it back in the day.
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I go directly to the shop it is only a few miles from where I live. If you want, I can look up the phone number and report back this afternoon sometime.
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I have tried several wires and found most of them don't keep their shapes. I have switched to the premade harness from Battlefield Wire Products Inc. They run about $2 per unit.
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I use an Orvis Dan Vice ($80) for thread tying and a regular 4" bench vice ($20) for wire tying.
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Pliers and side cutters.
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I get mine from old electric motors. One of them has about 10 years worth of free wire. Hobby shops carry copper wire.
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I use the coated cable wires in 90# test Sevelon and Surflon were then names for them. I have bought them from Cablea's and BPS.
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Yep I bet you need to mix it up better. You can cut up the bad ones and remelt them later into a better mix.
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I too use the high setting when using the gun.
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Check out Bear's Baits, Janns Netcraft, Barlows, Lure parts on line, lure craft, etc. See what starter kits they have. You'll also need a heat source, gloves, and some way to pour your baits. If you want to save money, don't start.
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Mine are both 1000. They heat very differently. What ever you get you should pay attention to time and learn the best for that machine.
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I'd use a paint remover from the hardware store.
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My silicone skirts from fishing skirts have a strong odor when I open a pack but so do my worms when I pour them.
