Jig Man

Like stated POURS. I've never been able to inject this mold.

I have been having the same issue with my Del's stick mold so this post really got my attention. I just came in from my unheated garage workshop. I warmed up the mold a bit before I began. I did 7 pours with the sockets and all of the worms came out perfectly. Though it is a bit of a pain trying to get the socket in the right spot with my gloves on. I did one pour with the duct tape. It was a disaster. When the hot plastisol hit the duct tape it melted and the plastic ran over the side of the mold. The adhesive on the duct tape got mixed in with the plastisol and ruined it. Mark how do you do the duct tape thing?

We used to get them from Yamoto. I think they were called twin ts.

Thanks. I guess my little experiment is a bust. I just have a bunch of plastisol colorants and thought it might be easy but is isn't working.

I am using a 2 part slow curing epoxy for my Arigs. It takes at least 12 hours to cure when poured and kept in the house, unlike my previous casting resin which set up in a little over an hour. It is also very cold out where I have to paint them so I decided to try making some colored ones that I wouldn't have to paint. I put less than 1 drop of plastisol colorant into my mixed up epoxy, stirred it up real well and poured it into the mold. That was 36 hours ago. I took it out of the mold yesterday afternoon and it was not hard. I have checked it this morning and can still make thumb nail marks in the surface. Before I do any more I thought I'd ask if this is a no no.

I flux all of the lead that guys bring me.

Thanks for the ideas. I looked a what I had on hand took Mark's idea and made a 4 box holder from mdf with a flap on one end connected with a piano hinge so it is angled when I need it and flat for storage.

I only make for myself so I usually do 4 oz or less and want every bit of it used up if possible.

I am using a microwave to melt plastisol and have switched from Pyrex to Nor Por. I have a slanted holder that supports 2 Nor Por cups. Today I was injecting some sticks and the mold fell over. I grabbed for it and knocked a Nor Por off with 4 oz of hot plastisol in it. I didn't get any on me but ruined a floor mat. I need to come up with something that will keep them at an angle, not be too large and not allow me to knock them off the work bench. I'd like to see some pics of what you guys have or get some ideas of what to build to avoid this happening in the future.

That sure is a nice setup. Congrats.

Cadman, the tapping guru, said it took him 3 years to learn how to do that. I've been doing it off and on for about a year and it is not an easy process but it is coming. I'll say use just a tad of paint and tap use more if needed. I put it on painted jig heads that haven't been baked heating the area I want with my heat gun. There was a big post about it a while back. Look for it and you may get some better ideas than I have here.

The way I do it is with a piece of brass tubing, I put my wires in it with one wire folded back on itself to make the bait eyelet. Then I crimp the tubing to hold the wires solidly. Lastly I center the rigging inside the mold and pour the bait. I buy the tubing at a local hardware store for another bait making project. It comes in 3' pieces and I only use about 3/4" on each Arig.

If you are like me you have umpteen more of them than the law allows. My resin was enough to make 34 of them. When it came in I was headed out on a 2 week fishing trip so I took the stuff to a friend's house and asked him to learn the proportions for a good head and make as many as he wanted for himself. He made 9 for himself and when I took the stuff home I was able to get another 25. I have given them away to several friends and still have way more than I'll ever get used. I'm thinking of trying some of my bondo on them next time I make.

I have the same mold and bought my resin at Hobby Lobby.

I'd try Shorty's Hook Sales first. I have not been able to beat their price.

More info and maybe some pics would help a lot as there are several ways that it could have been installed.

I like to see at a glance what I have so I bought a plastic closet from Lowe's. It has several shelves and is about 6' high and 4' wide with 2 full lenght doors. I have a lot of my baits in labeled 3600 and 3700 boxes so I can take a quick look and choose what I want to take on a trip whether in my boat or a bud's. All the surplus that will be used to fill the slots in boxes as they empty are in sacks or bags in cardboard boxes stored eslewhere.

At fishingskirts.com there is a Boss mold kit. It comes with the mold and 5 sets of wires for $22. I bought it last spring and made up a bunch with their wire sets and some stainless I found in a barn down on the farm. You can get a mold compound at Hobby Lobby for about $25 that will make up about 35 A rigs.

I have a couple of cheap hot plates from Wal-Mart but have never been able to keep them at a temp that would allow the plastic to be warm enough for use without scorching. I have been down the pyrex/micorwave route and didn't like it either. Now I use Nor Por silicone cups with my microwave. Once hot and using I can put them back in for 20-30 seconds when they start losing temp. I don't know of anything that will hold the temp for 10 minutes like you stated. What are you pouring that takes so long?

I don't know about softner as I don't use it. I have used hardner and it only takes an itty bit to make the baits too hard so I quit using it also.

I don't work in temps quite that cold but in the low 50s in the unheated garage. I have a hot plate with a griddle on top of it. I use it to get all my stuff warmed up while I am heating the plastisol in the microwave.

I finally came up with a system for installing my 2mm eyes and have several hundred on. Now I am getting ready to put the 4.5s on my Poison Tail jigs. They are a perfect match for the recessed eye socket. They also have a lot more adhesive than the 2mm ones. If I put a dab of superglue in the socket then the 4.5 mm eye do you think that will suffice or do I need to epoxy them to keep them on. I don't want to put several hundred on with the superglue if I have to go back and epoxy over them to keep them on the jig heads. What are you guys doing?

I have Bear's injectors with two sizes of nozzles. I have been using them for about 3 years and don't have any problem with them drawing. I work in an unheated garage so before I use them I place them on a griddle to get them warm. Then I dip the plunger head into cooking oil to get the O ring lubed. I pull the plunger a couple of times to lube the inside of the tube. Then I put the nozzle on and draw up the plasitsol. When I evacuate the injector I have learned to hold the nozzle with my off hand to keep it in the injector. Those good to 500° gloves that I got from Bear are invaluable for this operation. Let me know if I can offer any more assistance.

OK now I know what you mean by plate source. I use coffee filters, brown grocery bags, and vacuum cleaner bags.

I tried all of our tweezers and none of them work. I took my wife's eye glasses screw driver and turned it into a bodkin. It is working pretty well. It will have to do until I get to Springfield and check out BPS and the local fly shop to see what they have in stock.