Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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Harbor Freight Tools Sales has some colors and it is really cheap.
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Pro Tec Vs. No Name Powder Coating Paint For Jigs
Jig Man replied to mbmcdermott18's topic in Hard Baits
You might pm cadman. I bought some from him a while back for a really good price. -
You will do a lot less bleeding if the hook point is down.
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Absolutely.
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Try placing you skirtmaterial like you want it. Then wrap the wire twice around it. Leave the wire pointing it two different directions. Get two pairs of pliers and pull the wire tight. Twist 1/2 turn cut off the tag ends and you are done.
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Braided
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I use a stranded coated leader for my wire weedguards. It is called Sevelon or Surflon. I get it through Bass Pro and Cabela's. I also have some uncoated that I got from Jann's Netcraft.
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You can usually purchase without an ID but it will cost you the extra 10% exise tax.
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You may be pouring too fast and the mold is not getting completely as the plastisol gets close to the top.
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I keep a file on the work bench and touch up the edge left by the gate shears.
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I use clear nail polish on all of my tied jigs. It works great and is really cheap at Dollar General.
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I used to dip but got tired of it. I bought the molds from Bear. I suggest if you want to do very many you will need 2 injectors with 2 different tips, a blending block and at least 4 molds.
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If flying out the bottom means you can't shut it off then you have something blocking the plunger from returning to it spot. I use two methods for temporary fix for drips and/or blockage: 1. run a wire like a spinnerbait wire up the hole with the plunger opened, 2. heat the tip with a propane torch then open it up and let it flow for a few seconds. It those fail, I empty and clean everthing. Then I remelt the lead and flux real good.
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I make mine from Bondo fiberglass resin from the auto parts store. I get a nonstick pan, glue the baits down in it, spray the pan and baits with cooking oil, mix up the bondo and gently pour it over the baits and fill the pan. I then go away for 24 hours. When I come back I dump the pan, pull the baits out and smooth the edges with my dremel tool. They aren't great but they are functional. I tried to add a pic but it did not work this time.
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I have a poison tail mold with some cavities that would not pour well. I did all kinds of stuff and finally painstakingly used some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper to smooth the inside of the troublesome cavities. That along with smoking and cracking the mold made them pour a lot better.
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My guess is you didn't mix it well enough before you poured it. The hardner will settle to the bottom.
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Another Newbie Question About The 3 Pour Pyrex Cups
Jig Man replied to milrtyme24's topic in Soft Plastics
I have only done the 2 divider to make swirls. I'd like to see some baits made with a 3 way split. I used soffet material left over from a tornado. I heat in other cups and pour into the divided cup which is warmed on a hot plate. I have been happy with my 2 color swirls. -
Ditto on the drill press. I have done it both ways and the drill press and some tape marking is a lot easier to work with.
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From what I have seen and read if it can be done than Frank can do it.
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My injectors came from Bear's. I also bought the twin injector tips and the blending block. They allow me to make lams.
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I haven't had issues with my divided cup but I heat in 2 cups then pour into a warmed divided cup. I only use my divided cup for swirls instead of lams. I pour 1/2, close then pour the other half for lams.
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My TRIG is directly into the worm and fished on a MH rod for penetration. What Jim has I call a TEX SKIN and fish on a M rod.
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Be sure to check out the glue. Some of the contact cement should be called "I BLOWS YOUR HOUSE UP." You may have to be well vented and away from any heat source. The stuff I have done lately is with cement that is not volatile.
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Glad you figured out something that works. Most of my filters are brown paper bags from the grocery store.