Jig Man

Thanks to JSC. He sent me some samples. The 10# is what I used and eventhough it may be a bit limber it also may work just fine. I'll know after a few trips. I made up 18 1/8 oz head and painted them with some Cadman paint. I am hoping to try them out this week against the 1 strand fiber wg. Here is a really bad pic. My camera would not focus on this itty bitty head. Thanks again Jim for the samples.

That is way beyond cool. I'll pm you right now and anxiously await a piece. BTW: If it works, where can I get a roll?

What ever you buy it won't be big enough or work the way you want it to work. I have jigs in zip lock bags, tackle bags and in many plastic boxes. Once you get to making them you'll need all the containers you can find. I tend to make about 50 for every one that I lose so get ready.

Fatman I have tried the brace rubbers in the past. With what I carry and the windy conditions I fish they didn't work for me.

Yep Ted I have never had success with pouring any wg and painting with powder. These are only for personal use but they are very labor intensive. I have all of the immediate, except for silver which I'll do when I have the paint.

I am by no means an injector expert but I have found that on some of mine I have been injecting too fast and have to go back and inject again, making sure that there is overflow to get the air out.

I am making one strand weedguard crappie jigs. It is way labor intensive. I have modified my molds to take a single strand. Right now I mold them with a 1/2" piece of wire in them. I paint them and bake them. Then I take the wire out and glue in a single strand out of an fg30 weed guard. Do any of you guys have a short cut?

I'm not sure what you mean by dust clouds but if it is massive volcanos then try turning down the air fow. My white went crazy today and I had to cut the air to just barely a bitty bit.

I have tried all the ideas that have ever been mentioned to me and found all of them to be a waste of my time. So I mold all of them without the weedguard. On the ones that don't accept the pins, I have made my own pins. It may take a bit longer but the end product is a lot better by gluing them in later. Follow cadman's advice.

It would help if you told us what size unit you are working with and what type of baking aparatus you are using. I took a grill and cut it down to fit a pan that will go into my toaster oven. I can do 2-3 dozen at a time.

I do it but don't think I catch any more fish than when I didn't even paint the heads, but it is more fun to fish a good looking head.

My first divided cup didn't last very long in the micro. It broke on a reheat. The one I have now, I warm up on a hot plate and only use for pouring. I heat the plastisol in 2 cups in the micro.

Cadman I started using Power Pro as soon as it hit the market at Cabela's in KC. That was back in 2001 or so. I have some of it that has been spooled up since then and I have yet to turn it around. It used to be yellow but now is off white. I always use the hi vis yellow and in really clear water I use a fluro or mono leader which I attach to the braid with an Alberto's knot. I only put on about 150' or less over mono backing. It is good line but rocks play heck with it. I have it is several different sizes from 20/6 down to 5/1. I think it is good stuff but I still like to go mono sometimes just for a change. And yes it will cut you like a knife. Something for you to try is put the braid on with a 3' mono leader and cast it over a big brush pile with a Trigged bait. As you pull it up you can feel the braid like a hack saw blade on each limb. When it gets smooth you will know the leader is on the limb and you can get ready to wigle the bait over the limb. If you feel anything when the hack saw is in progress then you have had a pick up before the bait got to the limb (set the hook). Two things work well for me with braid: a Power Zap to burn it instead of cut it and the Piltzen or 16/20 knot (because I can tie it in the wind or in the winter with gloves on). I will tell you that after an 8 or 9 year stint, I still have a love/hate relationship with it.

Take your idea to a machine shop. Most of them can make anything you want for a price. The last idea I had was too expensive. The shop wanted $500 for a mold.

When I dip my jigs in the powder paint I use a needle nosed vice grip. I close it over the hook eye and dip. I don't get paint in the eyelet.

I had some left overs and decided to try some swim jig trailer swirls. They are too butt ugly to even post. Have any of you done this and if so can you tell me something. I was using bubble gum and green pumpkin. It turned out to be PUKE.

I do the same thing for some custom wire weedguards but I use duct tape and it work just fine.

I used to have that with very soft lead and big Colorado blades. Now I use harder lead, smaller blades, even willows and have no problems.

I can see where you would have problems with both of those colors together. I have had the same trouble with chartreuse and white swirls. They just don't work for me.

I use the copper wire because I had a table saw motor shoot craps. I use the windings from it and it looks like I will have a 20 year supply of wire.

This is how I wire tie.

I lay my injectors on a hot plate and get them very warm before I try using them. If you do a search there is a video about using the double injectors. I almost positive it is on this site as well as Bear's. I'm thinking a guy named Tyler put it on last winter. Here is a video you might want to look at. http://www.bearsbaits.net/forum/index.php?topic=2858.0

Try swishing them in the powder for more coverage.

I have found that regular 12 gague electric romex will work for that size pin. I have a bunch cut and if they slide out of the jig mold then put a small piece of duct tape over one side of the pin slot. That will keep them in place. With them you can pour, paint, then pull them out. They cost less than 1/2 a cent each. 10 gauge may be better but I don't have any of that laying around.

G have you smoked with candle wax?