Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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I am using 5/8" diameter brass tubes 3" long with inserts in the bottom to make the baits. Each bait has to be injected.
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Do you really think the food injectors would work for plastic? I have looked at the injectors on the market and I don't think that they will do what I need as I am injecting into individual tube molds that are 5/8" diameterX3" length. These are what I am making.
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The metal tubes at the top are brass with brass compression fittings on them. Do you think bondo fiberglass resin with fiberglass cloth would do the trick? These are catheter syringes that can only be obtained now with a perscription and I only have a few left.
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I have some hand injectors that I have been using for some custom baits. I have been using JB weld to hold everything in place but in less than 200 baits I have gone through 2 injectors. What is tougher or more heat resistant? The first pic is an injector with less than 100 baits. The second is not used yet. The first one melted all the J B and slid up inside the tube.
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I have been using surflon 90# for 1/8 oz jigs, 1/8 and 1/4 tube inserts for a long time. It works well for me. http://www.cabelas.com/p-0011246314955a.shtml
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http://www.protechpowder.com/protech-eng-products.html
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I heat my 1000 sq ft garage with a kerosene heater when I am out there in the winter making baits. I light it outside and burn it till it quits smoking then move it in. It does a great job.
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For one sided molds I like to use a hand injector that I made from a 65cc cattle syringe. It lets me place the plastic straight into the parts of the mold as I want and the overflow is minimum. I use a single edge razor blade and exacto knife to trim off any excess.
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I had a similar problem with casting babbit spoons. I had to use my fish cooker and heat the material really hot then ladel it into the mold. I went from one whole day with 2 good spoons to 75 perfect ones in 2 hours by ladeling.
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Thanks a lot guys.
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I have done a search and come up empty. Do any of you have a recipe that they would share?
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Everything I tried became a problem so I quit trying and just drill out the holes when the heads are baked. I seldom have any chipping.
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Stir everything very well before you use it.
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When I use the coated cable I use 90# test leader from BPS and Cabela's.
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Here is what they told me. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/17962-can-i-stop-the-bleeding/
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I ordered some from Lure Craft today.
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Thanks brett. I'll give them a call.
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The most problems are happening with dyes from Ranger Bait Co and Spike It. They really bleed into the chartreuse.
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The dies that I have for plastics tend to bleed after a few weeks. The top one has been done for a while and you can see the blue bleeding into the chartreuse. The bottom was dipped today. Is there a process, chemical or type of dye that won't bleed.
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Before you try it, order a new stove and fix yourself a place to sleep in the garage.
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If you are pouring for personal use the 10# pot will do you a good job. I use mine for jigs from 1/32 oz to 1 oz.
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I do the same as reeves on spinnerbaits. That is the only way I know to keep the hook cool enough to not attract the paint.
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I don't put any chenille on FnF jigs because it slows the fall. The objective is to get them into the proper depth and work the jig with the rod. You will get a lot better action on FnF jigs if you use craft hair instead of bucktail.
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I think your buddy is right. I don't use half that much thread on FnF jigs. The fish don't care.
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Well I just came in from making several cotton candy baits. I had to get my wife to show me how to reduce the power on my micro. I did the initial with 4 oz of plastisol and a 3 minute with intermitten stiring timer. I added color and glitter and did another 45 seconds. After that I went to power 2 for 1 minute at a time to keep it liquid. When I had to reheat I used power 5 and 7. I did about 3 reheats without any noticable scorching. Thanks again for the tips. No matter how old one gets, there is still room for learning.