Jig Man

I've not sold my plastics, but for years I did make and sell jigs to boat docks, hence the handle jig man. I got tired of having to make the large orders, get them done and delivered and keep a full time job as well as try to raise cattle and find time to hunt and fish. Something had to go and the least fun was filling the orders so I quit selling jigs.

I got my drop shot swivels from Do-It when I bought my mold.

Sounds like a plan. I'll give it a try. THANKS.

I am wanting to make jigs in the campground or maybe in the boat. I have what I need for doing silicone skirts with a collar instead of tying or using wire but, I like to add 1/2 " of living rubber to most of the jigs and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get living rubber on with the silicone skirts. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

I used a torch for years. It is very easy to get the heads too hot. Try to keep them in a dull finish instead of shiny when you heat and dip. If shiny you can easily get too much paint on the heads.

Try only heating the head until it will pick up just a bit of paint and still have a dull finish. Then bake it. Since I started using my toaster oven to heat the heads I can do several at a time and keep them all dull looking before baking. After several hundred heads of various types and sizes, I have had no extra paint show up on any jig.

I'm about 100 miles away and may be able to make it, but I don't know what it is about. Can someone tell me what is happening?

I have FB, Arke, 2 types of Banana, and Poison Tail, etc.

I too was having trouble with the HF powder. Cadman suggested a vaccum cleaner filter as the medium. It works well with that heavy paint and my aquarium pump.

The way I do the skirts is usually with 2 silicone and 1/2 tab of living rubber. I wrap thread around the jig throat, put the rubber on, wrap a couple of wraps, place the first silicone skirt where I want it, wrap a little more thread, place the second silicone tab and wrap a little more thread. That gives me exact control over where everything is going to be. Then I wrap the wire, cut off the ends and finally, cut off the thread. My process sounds more cumbersome than it actually is.

I have never heated it so that is all new to me. I just mixed my scent and coloring in like it was straight from the jar.

Wish you had posted 2 weeks ago before I bought mine.

I have been adding scent to pj for several years. I use it as a tube lube as well as scent. I have on occasion added color. Food coloring is easy and cheap.

I use modified banana and poison tails while a friend uses 1/2 oz footballs. I tried to send you a pm but it didn't work. I have the pt molds.

My thumb makes them look like that. I do that to most of my fg 30 jigs. When you find out the cause let me know then I won't have to spend all of the time to make mine flare.

If you can beat their price please post the supplier because they are way cheaper than any other place I have found.

They had a web site problem and I called about it and was given prompt attention. On my next order it went through. I'll say one thing, these guys are fast on getting an order out. Shorty's hook sales is the only place I have ever seen faster service.

I have been mixing some cheap pp with Pro Tech. It mixes best in the fluid bed while it is floating and like stated it doesn't look the same until baked but I like some of the results.

What I had on hand was vacuum cleaner bags. They worked like a charm. The volcanoes are erupting now when I turn up the air. Thanks for the idea cadman.

I have been doing just fine with coffee filters and brown paper grocery bags, except, I bought some really cheap powder paint. It won't float well in my cups. I think I need another type of filter. I turned the pump all the way up and never even got close to a volcano. I bought 3 pounds of it and would like to get good use of it in the fluid bed. What might I have laying around that would give greater air flow?

Finally I think it is going to work. I was getting flash with the 6 layers of penny wrappers so I went back to 4. I took a hand held hone and smoothed the inlet gate and the neck leading to the cone collar. I heated some hooks in the toaster oven. I held the mold close to the pot. I got all of the jigs to pour just fine. Thanks to all of you because I think I borrowed something from everyone. I sure am glad that is the only cavity that is pouring with difficulty. I have also made myself a memory flogger note which I am going to go put in the mold so I will have it there next time I go to pour. Thanks again.

That is the trouble I am having. Please tell me how you heat the hooks and how you smoothed out the cavities. I used to use an old spinnerbait mold where I had to torch the hook and wire to red hot and only pour in warm weather inorder to get a complete pour.

Basseducer that is the way I had to do it inorder to get any results at all. My pot has no flow adjustment. I just try to keep it flowing fully all the time. Cadman I couldn't find a business card and didn't know what kind of tape to use so I used a penny wrapper from the bank. I wound up with 3 of them folded and placed as close to the 1/2 oz slot as I could get them. By having the mold close to the pot and the gap caused by the 6 thicknesses of penny wrappers I got to about an 80% pour with some flash, but I can live with the flash. I guess it must be the hook diameter. One way or the other I am going to use the 4/0 hooks on the 1/2 oz jigs or die trying. Any more ideas folks?

Like I stated,"Or something I haven't thought of yet." That sounds like a plan cadman. I'll give it a try after I watch a little NCAA BB this pm. I wouldn't even mind a little flash just to get the tail end to pour all the way around. I must have 20 molds and don't have any that give me trouble like this cavity. Thanks a bunch cadman. That is the really great thing about this site. Someone on here has gone through the "fire" and already knows how to put it out.