Jig Man
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Everything posted by Jig Man
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Mark when I used a Lee pot I always ran it at 8 or above. If your pure lead isn’t actually pure it will need more heat.
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Are you holding the mold away from or against the mold? That can make a difference.
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Mark get the teflon from Ted if he still has them. They are way better than metal and clean up well after painting.
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I’ve got a long way to go. My blue isn’t bright enough and my black soaked into my chartreuse. They are just plain butt ugly.
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Natural pumpkin with lighter green pumpkin powder paint???
Jig Man replied to JayC37jigs's topic in Wire Baits
I’ve mixed colors just to see what I get. Sometimes it turns out sort of like what you mentioned but I can’t count on it. -
Just for my own edification, what kind of trailers are you going to screw on the jig?
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See if this helps.
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kbtackle.com search for jigging minnow
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Thanks Ted.
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Hook end to hook end 2 1/2”. They haven’t arrived yet. I’m trying to get prepared. What clear coat do you guys recommend?
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That is beautiful. I don't have an air brush, powder paint only.
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It is not installed when it arrives. That is the last part of the operation.
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I know Cadman is a master at this. I’ve done it some but it hasn’t been great. I have some jigging rap blanks coming and am trying to figure out how to do more than one color and have them look decent.
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Yes.
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I like bigger hooks so I use 4/0 in my swimbait heads.
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When I first started using Elaztech, I was making my own screw lock shaky heads. I ran into that same problem. My fix was to heat a small drill bit and melt a hole in the end of the bait. Then the screw was easy to get in. I even did it in the boat with a tiny pair of channel locks, the drill bit and a lighter.
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I only put eyes on my swim jigs. I coat them with Crazy glue which comes with a brush.
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I don’t use a file. I have a dull pocket knife on the work bench. I can drag it across the cut and it flattens down. It is then ready for paint.
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These will work just fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/micro-flush-cutter-90708.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169054043&campaignid=12169054043&utm_content=125548919708&adsetid=125548919708&product=90708&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw--2aBhD5ARIsALiRlwA6untSSZhmQCA7QcLN8r2QikPlirVsMtuE3oNXa0w-j5a_mPI-tSUaAmldEALw_wcB
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I use gate shears.
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I’ve been using plastisol for decades. I microwave mine in the garage. When I demold the baits I put them in a pan of cold water on the workbench. When I get finished I put them on a towel to dry. I have not seen the necessity of having them outside. I think you will have problems pouring outside if you live where it is cold.
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I do pretty much the same as smalljaw. I rarely heat the hooks as I pour in my garage. When I built the house I had the garage super insulated and it rarely gets below 54° in there. More important to me is having a good coating of Frankfort Arsenal dropout on the mold.
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I totally understand. I haven’t done it in a long time. I have gotten too lazy.
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You can use screw locks. You heat a small drill bit or wire then melt a hole in the end.
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I have used Loctite super glue gel for years to keep plastic baits affixed to jig heads. Lately no matter what I do it dries out in a couple of weeks. I have used shrink tubing on larger hooks cut at an angle for keepers but the smallest one I have is too large to shrink tight to the hook. I have gone back to an old way that I used to do bait keepers. Anyone got a simpler method?
