Jig Man

From the pic it looks like yellow with a few drops of white.

Have you searched the soft plastics cookbook?

The new VMC EWG hooks are all that way.

Thanks. My brain was saying I paid $80 each but it isn’t always spot on.

I have some tube molds that I bought from Bears Baits. I don’t use them anymore and am thinking about selling them. I don’t remember what I paid for them. Do any of you have them and remember what they cost?

When I paint jigs I use a heat gun and count (1001, 1002, etc) for every jig. That keeps me constant. I only get the jig hot enough for a light dull coat of paint, just enough to cover the head. That way I don’t get runs. For a rack to hang jigs on, I took a grill rack from an old cheap grill I had in the camper and cut it down to fit over the top of a baking pan that I bought from Wal Mart. It has 3 rows and can easily handle 2 dozen bass jigs at a time. When baking is done I pull the pan out and set it on the garage floor to cool. I have been using this setup for at least 20 years.

I hold the eye of my jigs with needle nosed pliers or hemostats. When any paint gets in I run a spinnerbait wire through it then bake. I only heat the jig enough to get a dull light coating of paint on it so when paint gets in the eye there isn’t much.

Check out Jungle Jims Jigs.

I used to keep mono leaders on a piece of styrofoam with slits cut in the ends.

I did 3 things, lowered the heat, lowered the flow and used my big shop vicel. I put a VMC 2/0 ewg hook in each slot and cranked the vice tight. When I poured it was a lot better until I got to the 1/16 and 3/32 cavities. They would not pour so I increased the flow. Things are looking pretty good. Thanks for the suggestions.

This is the Midwest finesse mold modified to take regular Ned hooks as well as Victory and VMC ewg hooks. The mold seems to close tight enough but I will put a hook in each slot and use a vice to be sure. What do you guys think about lowering the heat?

I recently modified a mold. I am getting some flash around the heads on some cavities. In another thread smalljaw mentioned considering doing that with one of his molds but wound up with another solution. The eyelets are siliconed and the mold surface had been thoroughly scraped and cleaned. Have any of you reduced the lead flow to combat flashing? If so how did it work? I am also wondering about lowering the heat. I’m using hard lead so I’ve had it over 700°.

Powder paint should stay on.

Me too.

I understand. I just came in from 95° pouring shaky heads. With a big fan blowing.

Mark Smalljaw has warned about modern wheel weights containing zinc and can ruin a pot.

Mark I am on pins and needles waiting to see your finished product.

Zeiners has a ripper in a 3”.

The wire got caught on my line a few times so I decided to cover it. I sometimes use braided line instead of wire and the shrink tubing helps keep it in place.

I do the same thing. I use floral wire. I just wrap a few turns around the R and cover it with heat shrink tubing.

Thanks guys. Full was in the back of my mind but a little fuzzy and can’t locate any paperwork.

I’m getting ready to put lead back in mine. Cleaning was a pain because it was full. Is it necessary to keep it full?

Thanks for that link. That one is very close. I looked at their site and found mine. It is the 733.

Where I bought this craw mold. There is no indication of any company. Do any of you recognize it?

Wow it was nasty. It took a long time to clean it up. I even had to use a torch to clean the plunger. I will endeavor to be more selective in my lead and more diligent in fluxing.