benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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Iwata is the only brand of airbrush I've used and I recommend the eclipse and micron.
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super glue is not a good sealer by itself, need to do a coat of devcon before painting and clear coat. I've used just super glue on baits I've wanted to fish and the same thing happened. What super glue does for a wood bait is give the wood a good hard outer shell to resist dents and dings.
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Recommendations for someone to paint Predator Wiggle Warts...
benton B replied to Puma's topic in Hard Baits
Tackle Kraft, TK Stanley can lay down some color and his craw patterns are 2nd to none. -
I just bend the tail prop to counter the nose prop, I've not seen any blades advertised as counter rotating. I'm sure the companies that use those blades just order a large number of blades.
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Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, Revolution HP-CR are the only brushes I've owned for 20yrs.
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The way I seal balsa wood cranks is as follows, 1 coat of super glue then lightly sand, 1 coat of flex coat rob builder's epoxy, scuff with 320 grit, prime, paint, and clear coat with flex coat ultra v high build. I have foiled baits over 10yrs old that have held up. I've been building since 2002 and never had a issue with my seal coat peeling off of foil.
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I think the tail is too long and the flat nose needs to be flat. Put the line tie at the very back of that flat nose. I've build more than a few floating lipless baits and the ballast is forward in the body so it sits nose down at rest.
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I do my sealer coat over the foil then paint and clear coat. My foil baits have held up for yrs.
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Look at candy foils but be aware the back side is still sliver. It's very thin foil and does not take patterns well.
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rod builders epoxy is good for sealer coat but I would not use it to clear coat, no uv additives in that porduct
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Flex Coat Ultra V high build is a very good clear coat. Takes a long time to cure so spin those baits for about 3hrs.
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cut the lip slot first, then cut out the body
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- crankbait
- crankbait lip slot
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I recommend you use circuit board material for you deep divers.
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I've found that for every inch of lip from the nose of the bait you get 7-8ft of depth.
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wildlife colors super hide white is what I use for the base coat. It sprays well thru a .5mm brush at 35psi.
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That is a good physics question, I would just a hang 20 lb weight and see what happens
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This pic may help with showing how I do the line tie in the lip of a bait. No way the line tie is coming loose unless the lip comes out of the bait. That lip is a 1/2 inch deep into the nose of the bait. Hope this helps
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I use a long cotter pin that runs the length of lip back into the bait. I drill a small hole at the bottom of the lip slot for the cotter pin to fit under the lip slot. Once the lip is epoxied in place the cotter pin is set and will not come loose. Circuit board material will wear down in time if you are cranking rocks.
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I use stainless steel cotter pins for the line tie in my deep divers but the lip is garolite not lexan. The cotter pins hold fine and never had a problem with the lip.
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Joanna's fabric or hobby lobby will have what you want
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Here is my method for sealing a balsa baits. 1 coat of super glue rubbed into the bait, sand then 1 coat of epoxy, prime and paint.
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I have baits that I built 18yrs ago and the lexan bills are still good. You must have got some acrylic by mistake, that stuff will become brittle in cold temps.
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I've mixed hilite powders with transparent base and it sprays well. You just have to play with base coats to see what gives the best effect.
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Is this product similar to Flex Coat rod finish
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Sounds like the wood is not fully sealed and air from the wood is causing your problem. You can exhale on devcon to pop surface bubbles.
