benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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I buy the little 4 packs from wally world for 1.00 and usually get 10-20 packs at a time. I can coat 5 med sized cranks from 1 little tube of glue.
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I just rub into the wood with my bare finger. As long as I don't apply pressure my finger does not stick to the bait. I normally do around 10 baits at a time so the super glue just peels off my finger in a solid sheet. I've thought about getting a box of finger cots for that job but never got around to it.
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I've used D2t as the sealer but I just like the way super glue soaks into the wood and makes balsa rock hard. I cannot say if one method works better than the other.
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A coat of super glue followed by a coat of epoxy, this combo has worked well for me.
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I think you need a bigger prop, size 4 or 5. A cup washer will keep the prop from touching the bait.
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My guess is that the c-tex and primer are not happy together. Try switching brands of primer. I use painters touch primer and have never had an issue of paint lifting. Maybe a light scuffing of the primer for better adhesion would solve the problem.
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Set it on fire with a propane tourch. Any and all clear coats just peel right off. Light sanding coat of epoxy and it's ready for primer. Try not to heat up the lip, doesn't work well at all.
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Put the bait on a copy machine, that and taking a pic are the best two methods I've found. I then glue the copy onto 1/32 lexan and cut it out.
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Here Are My Questions. Can I Have Some Answers?
benton B replied to xix coleman xix's topic in Hard Baits
The trick is not to press your finger to the bait when rubbing on super glue. I've done every bait I've made this way and have yet to loose any skin. I personally like to put a coat of epoxy over the super glue to give a smooth surface for painting but it's not a requirment. Each builder has their own methods of sealing, painting, and clear coating. If you don't like the method then figure out a method that works for you. -
That one makes me say "wow". -
I can tell you exactly how much time, 6 months and 12 prototypes. -
20+ but that takes a big body with a hugh lip. The bait I build to run that deep is nearly 7 inches long and weighes 1.5oz
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Vman, Big M is a memeber here just under another name. Thanks for the kind words but those are not from my hands. I would bet money those are WEC baits that were not signed, I've seen others like them. Looks like Carolina killer and z-flats in that bunch.
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Same deep diving balsa crank just a little different color.
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Here is a deep diving balsa crank. -
The scoop lip catches more water which applies more pressure and down force to the bait imho.
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I make a bait that is 2.25 long and it will run 16+. The bait requires a really long bill to get down that deep. Weight placement is another key issue along with the amount of weight used. The bait is made from hard balsa and took me about 6 months to perfect.
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How Long Doe's A Bait Need To Be On The Rotisary?
benton B replied to CatchemCaro's topic in Hard Baits
4 to 6 hrs for flex coat and I think e-tex is a very similar product. -
Your baits will not turn the color yellow, the clear gets a dingy look to it is all. Do not store the baits where it gets real hot (boat, truck, garage) and the clear should be fine. I still fish some older cranks that have that dingy tent and the fish still eat em. I use flex coat ultra V now for several reasons, yellowing being just one.
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Wish I had access to a pool for testing. I could deal with the funny looks.
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Sounds like BS to me, never seen devcon turning into a pile of goo. I stripe my old lures with a torch and it's doesn't melt the devcon into goo.
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Wildlife colors (Smith paints) Polytranspar (WASCO) Golden Com-art (Iwata brand paint) C-tex
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I like 1 coat of CA followed by a coat of epoxy for a smooth surface to paint. I've been using this method on balsa cranks for 5yrs now and have no complaints.
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