benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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Flex Coat Ultra V (high build) is my clear coat of choice. Very good product that works well on bass lures.
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I will try to remember to get a pic for you tonight. I'm 95% sure all the food tents are the same size netting. I ordered 2 of the med sized tents and it's a load of usable netting. I also wash the netting after approx 20-30 baits to keep like new.
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Kris, if the scales where small then it was the food tent mesh I was using. The other material I use is standard tule from wally world.
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Google "food tents" best netting I've used so far.
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I would bend the lip down slightly and give a test run. You may want to get the balast weight more forward toward the nose of the bait.
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Ben, Go to Amazon.com and search for "fold away food covers" that is the netting I'm now using. Those things have a lot of usable netting and will last awhile. I also wash my net after about 30 baits and it's good as new.
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I just read that white fibetts will take color from a prisma marker. I'm not sure if that is any help.
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Dave, This may not mean much but I'm impressed. I could not build that machine with you reading step by step instructions. I will have to stick with the old hand carving method.
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Set the lip angle at approx 85 degrees and make the lip a little wider than the body. Ballast weight will be hit/miss, you may have to make a couple of baits to find the best place for ballast. I would start by putting the ballast weight in the first 1/3 of the bait and move back from there. I have made a bunch of wake minnows and it's not the easiest bait to build.
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I clear with flex coat which is similar to e-tex. Let the e-tex set up for 10 min before brushing it on the bait. Both clears are very thin and runny, if you apply it right after mixing then it will run no matter what speed the lure is turning. That was my early problem with flex coat and after letting it set up the problem has been solved. I can still coat 6 baits from a mixed batch.
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Thad, just rub a coat of super glue on the bait and then 3-5 dips of the prop solution will hide the wood grain. Be that same as when I coat with thinned epoxy. The super glue makes balsa rock hard and the prop dip will give a nice smooth surface to paint on.
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Soaking just does not make sense to me. The idea of prop dip is to build several layers of protection on the bait. Why not just seal the baits with the same method used on the baits you got from Big M (me).
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Thanks guys -
The best position for the line tie on my baits is just short of the half way point from the nose of the bait to the end of the lip.
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If you want to use as a top coat, 5min will not work. it's not water proof, yellows really fast, and has a very short working time.
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I've never used the prop solution but I don't think you need to soak the bait over night. I think 3-5 dips with some drying time in between dips will work.
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Here is a mixed bag of round, semi-round, and flat sided shallow runners. -
Here is a mixed bag of round, semi-round, and flat sided shallow runners. -
Here is a mixed bag of round, semi-round, and flat sided shallow runners.
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Imho, the lip angle is too steep, needs to be somewhere around 10-15 degrees. I also think the lip is too short. I've found that you get about 7-8 feet of depth from a 1 inch long lip. On my deep divers I use a 2 1/4 inch lip to hit 18 feet.
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My version of the famed Charlie O and a Jann's jerk bait in clown. -
My version of the KB1 -
Here is an attempt at a copy of the B3 -
D, Sorry to hear you've had a problem but I've been buying my paint from them for about 5yrs and they have the best customer service. Pick up the phone and give them a call, they bend over backwards to make sure things get done right. Couple of times they've sent the wrong color paint but after a phone call I get the right bottle of paint and get the screw up for free.
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Stay away from the G-7, I tried it and it's crap for lure lips. Breaks very easy.
