benton B
-
Posts
782 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by benton B
-
I use several different sized hole punches (5/16, 1/4, 3/16, 1/8) and vinyle. I go to a sign shop and buy scraps. Most of the time the owner just gives me the scraps. Imho vinyle eyes look better than hand dotted eyes.
-
I use a regular notebook with hand written details. I draw the bait on top of the page and mark the lip slot, weight port, line tie, and tail hanger positions. I list the dia wire used, amount of balast weight, depth of lip slot, and material of lip. I've found this to be a very simple method to keep up with needed info on each bait.
-
I've put all the rattles in my baits right behind the balast weight and as low as possible. I ran into the same problem that you did on my first bait with a rattle. Too much weight above the mid line of the body and it wanted to lay on it's side. I think if you put the lip slots on both baits where the current line tie is then both will have a nice wiggle action. I would also put the line tie right on top of the lip or in the lip close to the nose of the bait. Cool looking body styles. -
Another beauty Dean, love to look at your work. -
You cannot go wrong with either brush but I will only use the gravity feed versions. For painting baits 1 at a time, it's the easiest to clean between colors.
-
Wooden sewing hoops help to hold the netting tight to the bait if you are just painting the shoulders. There are several different sizes to fit different baits. I leave the netting a little loose so it will conform to the bait.
-
Yes I do catch fish on my own crankbaits and alot of other folks around the country are catching fish on them also.
-
Move the line tie under the nose and right on top of the lip. Same problem I had with my first jointed wake bait, moving the line tie fixed the problem.
-
I build a 3.5 inch long swimbait with 3 sections. It's not any more difficult than the 5 inch bait I build.
-
Finally figured out a pattern that I can paint. -
Make sure you get the new Flex Coat Ultra V. Also let the flex coat sit after mixing for about 10 min and it needs to be turned for about 2hrs.
-
No need to wipe the bait down with anything before clear coating. Blow it off with compressed air to remove any dust and clear coat it. Like Bob said any chemical used will take the paint off the bait.
-
Smith paints are taxidermy paints made for airbrushing. Most of the colors are thinner than c-tex right out of the bottle. I shoot most of the Smith paints at 18psi, some of the transparent colors can be a little too thin but it's rare. It could be the brush also, I used to have a Paasche brush and the best thing I ever did was get rid of it. No matter what I tried it would not act right for me.
-
The paint is not too thin. Sounds like you had some cleaner left in the brush that mixed with your paint. when I change colors I always shoot a little of the new color on a box to make sure all the cleaner has cleared the brush.
-
It will work just fine as the primer/base coat color.
-
Been working on a crappie pattern. -
You need to seal the bait first then prime and paint. I seal with super glue and a coat of epoxy, prime, paint, 2 coats of flex coat ultra v to finish. I've never seen flex coat get soft from the heat.
-
I follow the same basic rules for building baits from micro cranks to my magnum divers. I prefer balsa for the micro cranks because it's easier on my hands to sand and finish.
-
Devcon will shatter like glass if you hit rocks, docks, boat motors, or anything like that on the cast. I don't know of a clear coat that won't crack if you smash the bait into a rock. Just peel the rest off and refinish the bait.
-
2 coats are required to give you good solid clear coat.
-
You have the double prop down and the paint patterns are sweet. -
Kingfisher, shoot me a PM, I have something you might be interested in.
-
Good looking baits Bob. I find the really light balsa wood a pain to work with but makes a bait that is real jumpy. -
Nice to see another builder busting the 20ft mark. Bob I really like the body shape, shows good carving/sanding skill. I did not have any luck with the frying pan bill but a willow leaf bill was the ticket on my deep runners. -
I would fill the holes with epoxy and drill new holes to the size needed. Use screw eyes epoxied in the holes and that should hold just fine.