benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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flex coat has uv stuff in it now and I think it makes the colors a little brighter. I found devcon yellows pretty quick if left in the heat of the summer.
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1 coat of thinned devcon will take of the grain. Gives you a nice smooth surface to paint.
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Bob, I've thinned D2T for the clear coat on some jerk baits I repainted and few cranks. I really did not notice any problems but I started using Flex Coat high build and really like the results I'm getting. I only use the D2T for sealing now.
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I use flex coat high build and feel that it's the best product I've tried so far.
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I like to use denatured alcohol to thin devcon but I only thin it when I use it for sealing the bait. I don't thin it for the top coat and I only brush on 1 coat per bait.
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I clear my jointed baits in sections and you must have a drying wheel with e-tex. That stuff is like water compared to devcon.
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With my balsa cranks, faster rise=more wiggle. I'm not sure how that will work with higher density material.
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2.25 inch long and semi round is the smallest body I've been able to get down to 16 feet. I have a 2.5 inch flatside that gets down that deep and it has a very tight wiggle. Both baits have a 2 inch long lip sticking out of their nose. No way to get a short lipped bait down that deep on it's own. Carolina rig might a be an option.
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When I repaint plastics, scuff with 400, wipe with denatured alcohol, base coat of Super hide white from Wildlife colors. No problems so far with this method.
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Camo green and Tundra green from Wildlife colors will be a close match.
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I use 1/16" thick for most lures but I also have some 1/32" lexan for the ul lures. I got the 1/16" stuff from Mcmaster carr and the 1/32" came from Micro-mark tools.
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Jann's netcraft and Stamina both have unpainted bodies.
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I do my version with light grey scales, then shoot transparent smoke over the back, followed by iridescent blue or purple. Looks pretty darn cool to me.
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Can anyone please tell me what type of wood was used to build the original Jitterbugs. Thanks
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I would guess that since one side is lower (3-4 degrees) then you are getting a reaction as if the whole lip was angled at 3-4 degrees.
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the bait in the pic looks like a pretty good bream pattern to me. I wish my bluegill looked that good. I not much of a bait fish painter but bass patterns tend to look good to me with dark greens over pearl white. A light mist of iridescent gold over the back is a nice touch. Take a look at the paints from WASCO, they have some specific colors just for the bass.
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get some extender and put a drop or two in the cup and mix with your paint. All of polytranspar paints I've used were bad about tip drying.
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Never thought about how many steps were involved when building a bait. I do know it takes a long time to take 1 from start to finish. That's not counting all the drying time it takes for sealers, paints, and clear. Thanks Blades for bringing this to my attention.
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I looked at those baits and looks a lot like a Mimic lure. I bet some big company is making the baits for Davis. No balast weight is interesting. I've not used much hardwood but I can't think of any other wood that would not require a little balast.
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The 25 bottles of wildlife colors will cost you 149.00 new + shipping. Sounds like a good deal.
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I have a template made for every body style that I make. That way all the baits look and run the same. I mark the line tie position and the hook hangers along with the weight port. I mark the center of the bait with a wheeled marking guage.
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If you could develop a clear with the thickness of Devcon and pot life of flex coat, I will be in line to get some.
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I use the poly and wildlife colors. Both are very good products.
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John, those little baits are really nice. You are the ul man for sure. -
Mark, I put the denatured A. in prior to mixing the D2T and have never had a problem with it not curing properly. Now I mix the batch for about 2 min for I start applying to the baits.