benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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here are a couple of hologram shad patterns and some plain ole painted baits. -
Yes that is the product that a lots of the builders here use as a clear coat. Just make sure you mix it real good and apply with a brush. You will have to rotate the bait for about 20 min to make sure the epoxy levels out while it cures.
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Net Man, here is my method for sealing. I rub a coat of super glue on the bait and let dry. Sand and repeat that process, then apply a coat of devcon 2t thinned with denatured alcohol and let cure for 24 hrs. Soaking the bait in sealer might be what is causing your problem, you may need to wait several days before painting.
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a few new ones off the drying wheel -
The reason the baits from the 70-80's had a crazy fish catching action was due to the super light balsa wood used, imho. I would never use ul balsa to build a bait, but back then I think that was what they had to use. I've tried making some copies for a guy that just loves B2 and B3 from early 80's and the wood is the only difference between those baits and mine in materials used. But the action of both baits is very different.
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Dang Tigger that is just freakin sick there. The scales are, well I can't think of any more words to describe it. -
jcb, 1/4" npt for the paasche hose.
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ball point pen, works with thinned epoxy too.
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I've found if I try to put a real thick coat of epoxy on a bait, I get the unlevel finish. Now I brush the excess epoxy off the bait and if needed apply a second coat.
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Bob, that a frying pan sticking out of those baits. Great looking baits. -
A few round bodies I've been playing with, nice hard thumping action in the water. -
That's an old Rap. color on the bottom bait and a very good copy of that color too. You do some good work. -
I've used water and windex mixed 50/50.
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There is a lot of work on that bait for sure. Looks good enough to eat. -
My wife named the bottom bait Fugly Crappie, the other one is my smaller version of a B3. -
For a jointed crankbait, do you put weight in the tail????
benton B replied to Helmout's topic in Hard Baits
Mark, you can put two hing points in a tail that size, I've done it with smaller jointed crank baits. But my bait is for bass and mostly small bass, I don't know if my cotter pin system will hold up to a big fish. I'm using 1/64 x 3/4 ss cotter pins for the hinges. -
I use both over foil or a pearl white base.
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For a jointed crankbait, do you put weight in the tail????
benton B replied to Helmout's topic in Hard Baits
I've done it both ways on the few jointed baits I've made. I found on the smaller crankbaits the hook was enough weight to keep the tail level in the water. I don't think adding weight will get a better action, but may help keep the bait level as it swims. -
Mcmaster Carr has about the best price I've found for 12x12 sheets of lexan. Stay away from the glass, it breaks.
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Dang Rookie that's a good looking bait, by the way I hate you:) You just had to post this one following my poor attempts at a bream. -
I used that product several yrs ago and I always sprayed a coat or two of primer before painting.
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trying my hand at some bream patterns on my cedar and balsa deep divers. Those realistic patterns are tough to paint. -
I would put 3 or 4 coats on a bait to give as protection as possible. Try on a test piece of wood to make sure it doen't have a bad reaction to your paint.
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I've answered more questions on this forum than I've asked, in the open forum and thru PM's. The reason why is I'm not afraid to get in the shop and tear up some wood to find the answer I'm looking for. My point is you should give an idea a try and then if your stuck ask the question or ask for a little tip to push you in the right direction. Don't come in saying I saw a pic in the gallery, how did they do that? If you ask me that is rude. At least PM the builder and ask if they mind sharing the technique.
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Your skill with the airbrush is just SICK! that is a pretty bait as are all the baits you post.