benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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Nathan, I paint with Smith Paints wildlife colors and the seal coat caused the paint to bleed. It may be the brand or something but I was not impressed with it after that. I have not tried the seal coat with any other paints.
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Balsa deep diver -
BigRed, how small are these baits? I build some of the smallest cranks for trout fisherman (2" long x 3/8" thick 1/16-1/8oz finshed weight) and I use devcon 2ton as my clear.
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The seal coat will eat some water based paints for sure. Devcon will work fine on any balsa wood bait. I coat my 1/16oz ul baits with it and I use on my 1/4" super thin cranks, if the weight is right to start with, devcon won't cause it to sink. If you are repainting suspending plastics and you coat with devcon, you now have sinking plastics.
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I don't build baits for musky and I would do thru wire if I did. On my bass baits the lip is not going to fail. I've rip enough baits appart after screwing them up to how hard it is to pull the lip out.
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Drill a hole under the lip slot and when the lip is epoxied in place so is the wire. In my baits I drill holes in the back of lip for the epoxy to bite on, that is what holds the lip in place.
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Hey fellas, I've been away for some time but here what I've been doing. Let me know what you think.
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Jaime, if I don't set the paint good with a hair dryer then it will. I also let the baits hang for 24hrs before I touch them.
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cermacoat works fine but you will have to play with thinning to get the right consistency for painting. I personally don't use much c-tex because it is too thick. I use golden and com-art paints and I can spray at 15psi without any problems. I do use a cheap craft paint (metallic pearl white) as my base coat and thin it with windex.
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The BPS's finesse weights are all I use in my baits. I use the 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 oz weights for the different baits I make. One hole either 3/16 or a 1/4 inch is all that is needed. You will have to drill a bigger hole in the weight for wire larger than 22 gage.
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I could be wrong, but to me a custom lure maker is one who cuts, carves, or paints a piece of wood or plastic and uses it to catch fish. It does not matter how pretty or flashy the lure is, or if you sell 1000 baits per year, only if it works. C. Chip is a nice person that has answered alot of questions about making crankbaits but that post has really shaken my opinion about him.
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I put my hook hangers and line tie in first, then seal and paint. Then the lip goes in and top coat goes on. In my limited experience, cracking epoxy comes from water getting to the wood. Sometimes you'll have a small pin hole from an air bubble that you miss and that is all it takes for water to get under the topcoat.
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It should not matter if you sanded down to the wood. I paint over devcon all the time. If you put ctex on real thick and do not use a heat gun or hair dryer to set the paint then it will take several days to dry.
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Try mixing the paint in a small dixie cup first, don't mix it in your color cup. Get a hairdryer and after each coat of paint blow some hot air on it, you'll see the shine of the paint disappear, that the water from the paint evaporating. Then you are ready for the next coat of paint. Make sure you seal the wood first, then primer, then paint.
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You can order 1/16 polycarbonate from mcmaster-carr.
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How Not To Foil A Bait, Airbrush it and apply Devcon
benton B replied to squigster's topic in Hard Baits
Get some hooks on that thing and see if the action is what you want from that design. My first bait was plain brown cedar with 3 black lines on each side of the tail and an orange belly. I slayed last spring on that ugly bait. What we as humans see as ugly the fish may see as lunch. -
I use minwax polyurathane to seal my baits and out of the 10 different things I've tried it works the best. Wipe on with a rag and let dry 24 hr sand with 400 and then 1 coat of white primer. This is the best system I have found so far.
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Gozzie, I'm sure you have mod. tools before. Find an airbrush you like and then get some wraps made for tennis racket handles. You can cut that stuff in thin strips and wrap the airbrush until you get the build up needed for your hands( in theory). I use those wraps to build up the handles on my rods for more comfort. Also you will need to have a system to hold your lures that is hands free, so you can use both hands to operate the brush.
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That lure brings to mind a post where someone said making lures was not an art. That picture speaks for it's self and it screams beautiful. Very nice work.
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If you don't mind, what kind of problems are you having (weak grip, RA, OA, etc)? Best guess would be a single action brush that only requires a push on the trigger ranther than the push/pull of the trigger for a double action.
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Most of the guys are using x-acto knife handles to hold the lures while painting. I use needle nose pliers with a rubber band around the nose, but I paint my baits one at a time.
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If you are shooting ctx black, back off the air pressure because that color is thin.
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Jim, you can buy polycarbonate at 1/16 thickness and circuit board at 1/32 thickness. Trial and error is the best teacher for cutting lip slots. I cut mine on a scroll saw and it takes to passes to fit 1/16 lip into the slot. If I use a 1/32 lip then just one pass. Make sure you are cutting the lip slot while the bait is still a square pice of stock. With balsa wood you can use a small metal fingernail file to dress up the slots. Be prepared for mistakes because those will happen.
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You could make them with 22 or 24 ga ss wire and a coat hanger. The wire is thinner than screws so split rings are easy to attach.
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I use my drill press and micro-sized drill bits. I find the bit that is slightly smaller in dia. than my wire. Mask off the lip, mark and drill.
