benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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Wildlife colors has a blue/red flip flop paint. That might give you color change you are looking for.
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I would go to mud hole and get the syringes made for rod finish.
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You need to counter rotate the props to keep the bait sitting correctly in the water. Just bend the back prop opposite of the front and that should keep the bait from rolling. Lexan is going to scratch no matter what you do to it. Super glue is a great for sealing the wood for a quick water test.
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Flex coat is measured by volume, use the syringes it's a big help. I had some problems with a batch not curing and it was mix problem. The next batch cured just fine. You must use a turner. I build ultra light cranks from balsa and still use flex coat as my clear coat, never had a issue with it.
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I used the x-acto wood carving knife and then made my own handle from red wood. If the blade gets dull I toss it and get a new blade from the pack.
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I've been using flex coat products to build and clear coat my baits for many years. Once I learned how to use the product I've neverran into any problems. If you used etex then flex coat rod epoxy will be easy. I use flex coat ultra v high build, 2 coats with at least 15hrs between coats.
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carving knife and sand paper is all that is needed
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Like Bob said it may wear on the lip but it could take a long time. How big is the hole next to the nose of the bait? You could twist a line tie and then hook the duo lock to wire loop. I use duo lock snaps on all my personal cranks.
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Look at wedding veil material, very different mesh patterns
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Etex is too thin to cover sharp edges. You have to find a way to round those edges down or the etex will pull away from the edge. 1 thing you can try, let the etex set up for about 10-12 min (maybe longer) before you apply, might be thick enough to cover the edges without pulling away. Sharp edges and epoxy just don't mix very well.
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1 coat super glue then sand smooth, 1 coat of flex coat rod epoxy, prime and paint. This has been my method for many yrs and many baits.
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medical syringes are your problem, get some syringes for rod building and problem solved
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wild life colors and polytranspar are the two water based taxidermy paints that I use.
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I Am Missing Something Simple About Lure Lip Installation
benton B replied to aulrich's topic in Hard Baits
I install the bill before sealing/painting. I adjust the bill with tooth picks to make sure it's perfect. The coat of epoxy and primer hide my little helpers. I brush epoxy all the around and thru the hangers and toe eye, just takes practice to get the hang of being mess free. -
I've been using flex coat high build for yrs as my clear coat. I use two coats after painting and never had any issues. I do let the mixed batch sit for about 5min for the bubbles to rise and then blow thru a straw to pop the bubbles. Brush on and let the baits turn for 4hrs, the brush on coat #2 the next day. I like the baits to cure 12 hrs before adding the 2nd coat and 24hrs before I fish with them. I have been using the Ultra V high build since it hit the market. Has all that uv stuff in it.
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I give lures away all the time for testing but I only have a few guys that get the free baits to test. The give me solid feedback each time and will test the baits multiple times in different conditions. I don't give free baits to just anybody because you will never get the info that you are seeking.
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I've been using cotter pins for yrs without any problems. I use them in my ballast weight and for line tie in the bill.
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My brother has been catching reds on a small wake bait I build for him. Gold foil with a orange belly seems to really work. It's been a real good test for my style of building, so far all baits have held up to the pressure.
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I would use 18ga ss wire for the line tie, anchored in the bait under the lip.
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I've used a green-gold flip/flop paint to get that affect.
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gold scaling over black shoulders
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I use tungsten balls in certain baits to adjust ballast or add extra ballast to certain parts of the bait. It works very well and is not super expensive.
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I'm with Bob on this one, I have two power tools (scroll saw and drill press) that I use. The rest of my work is done with a carving knife, finger drills, and sand paper. I only work with balsa wood and the power sanders were just too powerful for my taste.
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Lifetone and polytranspar are taxidermy paints so the colors will be for reproductions of animals and fish. I only use water based paints but taxidermy paint from polytranspar and wildlife colors are the best of the different paints I've tried.
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I find ul cranks no harder to build than the bigger baits. Carving and sanding takes a little extra care, don't want to loose a finger tip.
