benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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Brock, Do a search for skeeter's post (around 400 of them) and read through them all. This guy knows balsa crankbaits, this will get you started in the right direction for bass lures.
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If you are sealing with devcon 2ton you don't have any worries. You would have to get cracks in both layers of epoxy for water to reach the wood. It doesn't matter what you seal the wood with IMHO, if water reaches the wood and soaks in the bait is toast. Make two of every color just in case.
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Terry, what is the lenght and weight of those baits? (if you don't mind) I make several styles from balsa from 1.25" in length to 1.75" and the weights run from 1/32 to 1/8. These are the most fun to fish in the summer when wading the small creeks and rivers in the Ouchita Mtns.
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I said eyes are not needed to catch fish, but I do paint eyes on all my baits. Why? because I like the way dotted eyes look on a bait. Bass are predators like cats, they react on instinct. If you wiggle your fingers under the covers a kitten will pounce and attempt to kill. If a lure wiggle past a bass it will hit it (not every time) but if the fish feels the bait is not eatable then its spit out. Just an opinion, not based on any facts just observation.
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Eyes are not needed to catch fish, only fishermen. At times a bass will hit a lure at the same time the lure is landing on the waters surface, it's a reaction strike.
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Cody, I make baits out of 3/8 stock all the time and those are as easy to weight as any other bait. There is alot less carving time if you use the 3/8 stock. Use the small finess weights 1/16 and 1/8 oz, 3/16" hole will fit both weights.
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I have the bcs and I love it. No complaints
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My very first crankbait was and still is ugly. But it started an addiction that can't be cured. Plain brown cedar Dbait copy, caught 4 bass on first testing so I painted 3 black stripes on the tail, orange on the belly and that thing has at least 40 to it's credit.
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I get that S action on my minnow plugs, I think that's due to the long slender body. I'm not sure if you could get that same action on short fat diver.
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I would love to participate.
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Savacs, go do a search for past posts by Skeeter, and read all of them. You will find an answer to just about every question or problem you will encounter.
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The lip my not be wide enough to provide the necessary resistance to make the bait wobble. Try cutting a new lip 1/8" wider than your bait and see if the action improves. Also if the line tie is too far from the nose can cause a simlar probelm.
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com-art and golden paints are head and shoulders above ctex imho.
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Had the paasche vl and nothing but problems from day 1. Now have the iwata eclipse bcs and golden paint (a almost good painter is born). Love the eclipse but those are the only two airbrushes that I have tried.
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Cutting stright and true lip slots and painting. The only fix for these problems that I know of is practice.
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TJE, the best way is just buy the airbrush you can afford, quality waterbased airbrush paint and start painting. I have working on this hooby for over a year and I'm just now starting to get some paint jobs that I'm happy with. You will be hardest critic to please. It takes alot of practice and patience to become a good painter in my opinion. Golden airbrush paints are my choice but createx is good too.
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I would suggest an old hairdryer on low heat setting, I have the paint bubble on the bait when using a higher heat setting.
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I've had the same problem and I knew that base coat was dry. I was using blue painters tap from 3m. I think the thin airbrush paints don't hold up well to the tape.
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Balsa foam is pretty tough, you can drill it, or put screw eyes in and I'm fairly confident thru wire would hold up. It is very dense but I just perfer to work with the real thing.
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I've tried it, but didn't like it. That stuff chips and gouges when carving and makes a nasty orange mess when sanding. You have to seal it with epoxy to fill in all the holes before painting. But it is light and I was able to test baits before sealing. I prefer the real balsa wood.
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Thanks for the tip Riverman, I have some left over from a room I repainted and I am going to try and thin it. One question, how do you keep from clogging in the lip slot? I had that problem when I was sealing my lures with the minwax product.
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wade and bank
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It's in a blue and white can with red letters, kilz 2, water based latex. I found it way to thick for my taste, I just use 2 coats of painters touch white primer.
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It has take me alot of practice on paper plates to get the eyes right, but I still get them off line on the bait. I use some stickon eyes but doesn't have the same effect to me. Keep at it, just like using the airbrush you will get the hang of it.
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Bass, I've been using the off the self cheap wood filler and have not had any problems. It sands real smooth with 220.