benton B
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Everything posted by benton B
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White cedar is used for Poe's baits or at least the old ones. A craft store will usually have selection of balsa wood, good place to search for just a small supply.
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You want to drill the ballast port in the belly portion of the bait. I think a 1/4 hole would do nicely for 1/8oz weight, unless you use tungsten. Then a 3/16 hole would be a better size. I use cotter pins for belly hangers and those work very well. On the wood to use, my advice is balsa wood. I think it makes the best shallow water cranks.
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I would still build the first one with the 1/8oz of ballast. This is a personal preference, I like a lightly weighted shallow running crank. I think the bait has better action and better rebound off of cover. You can use a bullet weight but I would put the point up so more weight in lower in the belly. A wheeled marking guage is very good tool to have on hand for marking the center around the blank.
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The internals of that bait won't matter much to your wood bait. It is a very sensible project and good choice for your first wood bait. Just cut a ko body in half to use as the pattern. I think the lip angle is 35-38 degrees and I would start with 1/8oz or just slightly lighter for the ballast weight.
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I think the g-10 give a little extra depth and on a lip that size it's doesn't flex as much as lexan. -
Here is a deep diver in a simple bone/blue pattern. I find the simple colors produce pretty well down deep.
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Ben, that is a great looking diver. I have a soft spot for that body shape. Try 20/6 powerpro with that bad boy, no stretch helps with the hook ups when the bait is down deep. I would guess 21-23ft on a long cast. -
Just get a bottle of Champange from Wildlife colors, great looking bone without all the mixing.
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Just take a small metal fingernail file and dress up the lip slot. I have to do this on 90% of the baits I make. It will only take you a couple of minutes and it's a must to have a straight lip in your bait.
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You can purchase ss ball bearings from Mcmaster-carr in any size.
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Your micro cranks are the best I've ever seen. great job. -
From the look and thickness of the paint on the old baits, I would guess those were dipped. Maybe mix pearl powder with latex paint. Old Bagley baits are the only ones I've seen with that thick pearl white paint as a undercoat. By the way I'm really just guessing here. Createx auto air has the best pearl white imho, it's thicker than any of the other brands I've tried.
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I use the same method as BobP with a scroll saw. When using a scroll saw be patient and do not rush the cuts or the lip slot will be off. I use a small metal finger nail file to dress up the lip slots.
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Large Tank Compressor Or Small, "quiet" Compressor?
benton B replied to mholden's topic in Hard Baits
I have a 20gal tool compressor and once it's full then I shut it off and paint. I can paint 15-20 baits of 20gal of air. should have bought the 30gal tank but hind sight don't help till later. -
The bill is too long and wide for the line tie in the nose. For that bait I would use a bill that sticks out from the nose no more than 1/2 inch. I would also make the bill just slightly wider than the bait. You have made a very good start with that little bait, just tweak the bill size and I'm sure the next one will run great. Get ride of the split ring, no need for it when using a snap ring.
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1/4 inch depth if line tie is in the bait, 1/2 inch depth if line tie is in the bill. 2 anchor holes in the back of every lip.
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Ben, the tungsten spheres will work as they fit into a 3/16" port. I use these for my jerk baits and micro cranks.
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I would like to play.
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The straight lip angle, along with the slim profile of the body gives the bait the tight action. That's my fav style of deep diver to build and fish. I've found for every inch of lip off the nose of the bait, you get apporx 7-8ft of depth with 10lb mono. I fish my deep runners on 20lb powerpro and get a little more depth. That is a great looking bait. -
Get an airbrush, compressor, and paint. Now get out in the shop and start painting. All the tips in the world will not beat practice time with the brush in hand.
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As you have discovered the 5min devcon is not used for the clear coat. It has to be the 2ton devcon and you will only get approx 8min of work time from that. You need epoxy that will be clear after curing. I'm not sure the loctite brand is a clear epoxy. If you bait is wood then just hit with a torch and the epoxy will start peeling off the bait. Sand it down smooth and repaint. If the bait is plastic then use a knife point and peel the epoxy off. Sanding that stuff down is a royal pain.
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I've only used the high build, make sure that you have the Ultra V version so the baits won't yellow. Mix the clear for approx 2 min and let sit for another 8-10 min before brushing it on. If you don't it's too thin and will run/sag on your baits.
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I've been using flex coat ultra V (high build) for several yrs and I'm very pleased with the results. The only other clear coat I've used was Devcon 2 ton and the flex coat beats it in every way. You need a drying wheel as flex coat needs to be turned approx 3 hrs and then hung up for 24hrs. It's a brush on clear that is fairly thin so 2 coats is needed for bass baits.
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I sand my baits with 120 grit, seal with CA glue and a coat of epoxy. Once in awhile I have to sand the baits following the CA glue but not very often. I like flex coat's rod builder's epoxy because it's thinner than D2T to start.