clemmy

Interesting thoughts. Though Dave you could also say it’s all based on drag ;) If you are interested, look up TRIZ. Really interesting research on inventing and design innovation. As for business, I’ve never sold a lure, but of course have thought about it. I decided that if I ever did it would have to be based on quality. The lure itself would have some sort of intrinsic value that brings pleasure to the owner, beyond just action, etcetera. If you look up some of the Japanese boutique top water “Surface Game” craftsman like Budd & Joey. It becomes about the enjoyment of fishing with a fine instrument, not just the catching. clemmy

I happened across this, and found it very interesting. Particularly how the masters are enlarged. I imagine these were used in the Sisson duplicators. Found on a Bagley Collectors site, from the collection of Bill Whitesell https://thecolorsofbagleys.com/collections.html#worm

This may help, though I’ve never done a walleye: https://www.mckenziesp.com/Walleye-Paint-Schedule-W1084.aspx craig

Not sure what the wrap would be made from, but if some sort of polyelefin shrink, most of those are less dense than water, so would decrease shrink rate. I agree with Dave that paint should not really affect it much, but a think clearcoat would. That said, you may clearcoat both. craig

not Sure how this double posted, please delete this one, Thanks

I was wondering if anyone knows the difference between the Worth Aspen and the regular Worth blades? There’s regular, Aspen, and Aspen deep cup Colorado, and Aspen/Regular Willow spinner blades. obviously they are cupped differently, but how so? Is there more thump, less resistance spin at a different angle, etc? Thanks, Craig

I have both the Hagen’s and a Boggs Tacklemaker. The Hagens is a serious tool, but Boggs and Twistech would handle that wire fine. I know it’s a silly question, but do you need both ends to be finished loops? Otherwise for 200 it be cheaper to just buy pre made forms. Of course then you wouldn’t have a bender to play with in the future. Last option would be the Dubro hand bender at twenty bucks or so, but I think that’s only rated to .032” clemmy

I use acid brushes as well. However for the plastic metal ferruled brushes I found many examples by doing a “bulk craft brush” search on Google. It looks like Dollar Tree carries some, Amazon, etc. I would search that, then click images, so perhaps you can visually match the brand you like. clemmy

For those of you that are using a hardwood dowel glued in for the tail hook hanger, how are you drilling the hole in the dowel.? I’ve been drilling, but it’s kind of slow and cumbersome trying to drill it out in the center. Just was hoping someone had a slick idea/method/jig to make it a bit easier and efficient. I know another option would be to use the plastic inserts, but would rather stick with wood. Thanks, Craig

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Soft-Plastic-Accessories/Rattle-Tube.html

I don’t know how many of you know Jaw Jacker (Rob Cochran) as he doesn’t post much anymore, but I just saw one of his baits in the November issue of Basser Magazine (Japan). Always nice to see one of own get recognized for their work! clemmy

Tally, You might get a kick out of this thread: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/32773-history-of-tackleunderground/

Some of us old timers still come around, but as others have said, it’s the nature of forums to age and change. Over time many of the old timers have reduced their presence (you were on of the first really Tally), others have passed (RIP), or gone missing (Craig aka Blackjack aka Nomad?) But a larger issue is that the nature of fishing and the hobby has changed. Soft baits have gone largely to bought molds and injectors, less hand carved and molded baits. A lot of the younger members work on swimbaits rather than crankbaits, and end up doing more foam baits as they are usually more intricate so thus harder to replicate all the pieces by hand. As mentioned above, a large group of newer members are painters rather than builders, using the Chinese knockoffs of existing baits. Nothing wrong with any of it, it just is different from what it was. I think, Tally, you are the equivalent of a grandparent that hasn’t seen their grandchild in 7 years, lol. That little leaguer you remember has now changed into a college student, lol. Mark, as usual, also makes good points. There is so much more information out there between forums, YouTube, Facebook groups, etc. Not the least this site. With that one exception all of our old discussions are still here, so many don’t have a reason to discuss/rehash if they use the search function. Imagine the first two guys working to come up with a wheel. Lot’s of communication, research, trial and error. But once they invent it, a third guy with access to their notes could then make a wheel. But he may improve on the design, or make it more suitable for his needs, and so on. Rick Clunn once claimed that there will really never be any “new” lures. But of course since then entire new categories have developed, like soft-plastic stickbaits, swimbaits, chatterbaits, etc... Just My 2 cents, Clemmy

Glad to hear it Dave! I’m a Physio by trade, so I know what you’ve gone through. Cheers, Craig

For paint I would do white, pearl and black opaque, and a shiny silver and/or gold. for transparent I would want black, red, blue, yellow, a dark green, a brown, and fluorescent green and yellow. I would think you could do most paint jobs with that (albeit with more custom mixing). Past that I think you are getting convenience of having to mix less, or fun things like interference colors. A lot depends on what you are fishing for, and the waters. If I was fishing Lake Erie for walleye, I’d use purple more. If for smallmouth in the Great Lakes golds and browns due to the gobies. Lake of the Woods is tannic, and gold has always been popular. If I was in Texas I’d probably use lots of red-orange. If I was trolling for trout, maybe some fluorescent pink. It’s addictive. I would also, if starting out, make sure to have a good clear to use between colors, heat set it and it’s a lot easier to wipe off the next color if you’re not happy with it.

If Mixed by weight, Devon 2-ton is supposed to be mixed 1.2:1 Resin:Hardener.

Cooling the epoxy will extend pot life. Spreading it out a little keeps it from heating up as much as it goes off. Also having it something that will act as a heat sink will help as well. Mixing in the bottom of an upside down can of beer or soda works well. No corners and the aluminum acts as a heat sink.

Yeah, that was it.

Best I could find was a Sickle style in 6/0..

Never used, but found this: https://www.boonetrading.com/collections/polar-bear-fur

As for Burgundy, you might find a cheap option in ladies hair dye..

Here’s where I get my dye and supplies https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dyes-for-dyeing-silk-wool-nylon.html?lnav=dyes.html craig

Here’s a tutorial by one of our members Triton Mike. Think the original appeared on the BFHP. http://www.angelfire.com/oh4/jrrods/articles.html Another option is that Gammy makes a size 12 (and so 14!) dressed treble, but not for US market, so you would have to order it on one of the JDM sites or else EBay.. Craig

Cheers Tim, happy you got it Craig