clemmy

And I forgot to mention i remember on one of the OLD threads about alternative color supplies that it was postulated that liquid coloring was pigment or dye dispersed in worm oil, or that it would work (Del i think you were involved in that conversation, is that how you're doin your new colors?) Another thread mentioned worm oil could be added to clumped up colors... But again, what is this stuff?

Does anyone know what worm oil actually is? I mean I see "worm oil"(MF), "worm oil" that has garlic (LC), "plastic Lubricant" (MF), "worm oil" (Calhoun's), "worm oil" (Janns)... What is this stuff? minearal oil? (shouldn't be) Menhadden oil? And what then is plastic lubricant? Next obvious question is if they differ, what's best? I've been using it in my bags and I have no idea what it is! Any help a poor confused soul?

In a recent discussion, Del stated: I dont get much requests for the ones that look just like the senkos( ie with the egg sack) so if your wanting ones with eggsacks just leave me a note if you purchase them. they are the same price as ones with egg sack and with out eggsack. Hope this helps!

This isn't an endorsement, as I've necer tried it...but MF carries white glitter...

Thanks BigZ, yeah that's kinda what I thought, was just looking for a way around it... guys, I'm sorry I confused you 2, but thanks for trying, What I meant is I'm trying to come up with my own "secret" ingredient to set my pours apart..It's not this, but a similar situation would be SenkoSam's glitter, which he states will start to degrade around 300 degrees. One of the ingredients I wanted to try out also will.... I just didn't know if it was possible to get a quality pour at that low of a temp, and yes they'd be salted as well..

Hey guys, from what I've read most pour at about 340-350 degrees into two piece aluminum molds... I'm trying to experiment with adding ingredients trying to come up with my own unique bait, but one I want to try will melt at above 300 degrees, so I'm wondering if it's poissible to pour into Del's and Bob's 2-piece molds at that cool of a temp...Shouldn't matter if I'm trying split veins, as those wouldn't have to have the ingredient in it... Any sugguestions?

Haven't tried this, but how about silly putty or the like? spread/roll it over the work surface after you're done, it should pick up the glitter, then just work it a little to incorporate... Another idea would be to pick up one of those big cutting boards next time you go to Wally World. The kind I'm referring to are the thin ones designed to fold so that when you are finished chopping your vegatable, you fold it and slide the food into your pan. You could use this as a work surface and when done fold and brush/sweep into the garbage can.. just brainstorming...

Sorry to revisit this topic again, but i reread the old posts and there was one thing I didn't understand.. What are laminated bags? I read a post that you should use laminated ziplocks to keep your scents in. But I've gone to like 20 suppliers online and none have said anything about laminated. I found UV shielded (which would be good I guess), anti-static, colors, tinted, but no laminated... Please educate me!

I'm from Florida, so I know nothing about it, but I'm pretty good at finding things online, maybe these will help : http://tenntom.sam.usace.army.mil/Maps.html http://www.lrn.usace.army.mil/opn/TNRiver/ Plus I found a forum that had the guy for Ms DNR that is currently doing the topo maps, but he isn't done yet...

I think pen-tac went out of business, Mor-tac bought their product line... They have the specific body you posted, although there are suppliers that have other shapes... here's their site: http://mortac.com/about.shtml

Thanks Guys! Here outside Tampa we got some of Charley, but not the brunt of it (just some shingles/lawn furniture, etc) The good news is Frances has come down from 145 mph to around 105...still horrible if it hits you directly, but better than it was looking (we were thinking another Andrew)... The worst part'll probally bethe rains, as it's moving slowly there's predictions of 10 -15" in less than a day...

From my research, what I've come to understand is that there are two basic categories of plastic coloring: Dyes and Pigments. Dyes: Are the true translucents/transparents. They also bleed. (Makes sense if you think about it, you have one worm loaded with dye as coloring next to a different one, it will "dye" the one next to it) Pigments:Are colored opaque particles. Put enough in plastic and the you will see the color of the particles in the plastic. These are opaque. They do not bleed. If you put a little in a worm, it sort of looks translucent, but isn't trully. (sort of like looking through a dirty windshield). As it is particles, it makes sense that they don't bleed, as the particle can't get up and move to the other bait.

Hey guys! I'm wanting to put some marabou in some of my soft plastics, obviously every place that sells fly tying supplies will have what I need, but I was hoping some of you could reccomend a good cheap supplier of feathers?

Hey all, Do you guys remember the old fuzzy grubs? I'm looking to add Marabou feathers into the tail of a soft plastic, like the old fuzzy grubs had... There's one previous disscussion I found in hybrid baits category on fuzzy tubes, with some ideas, but nothing really that was a clear cut way to do it... My only ideas so far are to glue em in, but if you made a small hole for the glue deep enough, wouldn't the quills be too loose? I don't really think putting glue on the quills and pushing them in like a skewer would work as I think marabou's quills are too fine for that... Anyone of you creative geniuses think of a way I could mold them in (or Del any ideas of how I could create an area in one of your molds to place a feather while pouring)? If I could find a way to efficiently do it I'd like to add this to my future production (If and when I ever get to roll that out...lol) Thanks All!

maybe I spoke too soon... :oops: http://www.okiebug.com

Terminator skirts are not rubber or vinyl, they're silicone..that said, I don't know of a supplier other than terminator.. But you mentioned the reason your customers wanted these was the increased flare they provided..Perhaps you could accomplish this effect cheaper (and offer your customers custom colors) by using umbrellas/cones?? I know stasmina among others offer them, in fact barlows has a quick tutorial on their use on their site...you could then use whatever skirt pads you chose...

SenkoSam, I meant to ask you, what's your minimum order from your supplier? I would like to try a large flake in a color that is not popular, (hence no-one carries it). I don't even know if it will look as I desire once poured...so I'd be willing to buy a bunch to try, but if like minimum that you can order is like 10-20 lbs then it's not worth it just to test... thanx!

Just note that most of the additives in salt are anti-caking and antihumidity agents, so you might need to "fluff" it in a spice grinder if you live in a climate such as mine... Please do let us know how it works! Actually if any are trying it it would be cool to see a pic of one totally clear bait with just popcorns salt added, together with the same bait poured with the pickling salt... Heck, it wouldn't even be a waste, as without any color/glitter added they would be easy to remelt into your next pour...

Well, plastidip brand is available in white, clear, black, blue, red and yellow, so you should be able to make almost any color out of those... I don't know if plastip brand is, but the vast majority of tool handle dips (as well as those silly rubber coin purses that open when you bend them) are made of: Plastisol! So I'm sure you could figure out a way to use our coloring... just Google plastisol tool dip and you'll see what I mean

Ok...perhaps a silly question for Woodsac and Nova: Thanks to each of you for posting your MO recipes...but each of you list "black" as an ingredient...but are you speaking of LC black which is transparent or MF black which is opaque (or does it matter?? Thanks again!

Looks good! Almost makes me want to learn to fly fish... Only thing I can think of is that if you are especially proud of any of the names (lure or color) you might want to include the TM subscript to protect it...

:oops: 2 more things; Sorry about the caps, I just cut and pasted from the sites, and some were in caps... Secondly, apologies to Nathan, who is still looking for his cyberflex answer I think... Craig

I'm not a chemist, so I can't really argue, what I know is from researching online, from what I can tell, pvc is a polymer, plastisol is pvc mixed with a plasticizer (what we call "softener"), and most plasic bags are actually polypropalene... From some google searches for plastisol pvc, plastisol definition, etc:: "Plastisol: A balanced dispersion of polyvinyl chloride resins in liquid plasticizers with many different additives that will provide unique and specific print properties. Plastisol is a thermoplastic that requires a specific amount of heat and time for fusion (complete drying). Additives can produce special effects, limit dye-migration, reduce fusion temperature requirements, and countless other uses. Every plastisol will have unique chemical compositions to provide exact print performance." "Plastisol (extended definition) Modified PVC or PMA dispersion which requires heat to harden. The resultant joints are often resilient and tough. " "Plastisol is a vinyl compound that is liquid at room temperature and will keep for years. When heated it fuses into ordinary vinyl never to liquefy again. Plastisols can be compounded to produce vinyl that meets almost any durometer (hardness), clarity, color, electrical, chemical, and weather specs. Surface appearance can go from shiny to matte. It can also be compounded to meet many standards, including FDA food contact, Non-Toxic, USP Class VI, UL, & MIL-P-20689. " "Vinyl plastisols and powders are dispersions of special fine-particle PVC resin and additives in a plasticizing liquid used for processes such as dip coating, slush molding, rotational molding and fluidized bed coating." From an In-Fisherman article on Gulp by Berkley: "Prochnow says that the Gulp! line is made of water-based polymers instead of plastisol. "Water can permeate the entire bait, constantly releasing scents and flavors to attract fish. Tests show that active ingredients are released about 400 times faster than with standard flavored baits constructed of PVC plastic." "Plastisols General InformationA PLASTISOL IS A GENERIC INDUSTRY TERM WHICH REFERS TO A FLUID DISPERSION OF A PVC (POLYVINYL CHLORIDE) RESIN. THEY HAVE BECOME A FAMILIAR MATERIAL TO THOUSANDS OF MANUFACTURERS MAKING SUCH PRODUCTS AS OVERSHOES, UPHOLSTERY FABRICS, TABLE CLOTHS, SHOWER CURTAINS, FOAM CUSHIONING, COATED PLATING RACKS, SMALL SOFT BODY FISHING LURES, SUPPORTED AND UNSUPPORTED GLOVES, AND TEXTILE SCREEN PRINTING INKS. THE ORIGINAL PATENT RELATING TO PLASTISOLS WAS ISSUED TO B F GOODRICH CHEMICAL COMPANY IN THE EARLY 1940'S WITH PATENT 2,188,396. IN 1947, GOODRICH INTRODUCED, COMMERCIALLY, THE FIRST VINYL RESIN DESIGNED FOR MAKING PLASTISOLS. " As I said, I'm no chemist, but the plastic companies seem to think plastisol is made from pvc....

Z-- I believe plastisol IS PVC...

I've never really looked into it as some have, this is the only link I know of, but I'm sure others could help more... http://www.toledo-bend.net/garst/garst.html