clemmy

Just do a Google search for " mini lathe jacobs " and you'll find info on do-it yourself, modifying mini lathes to accept jacobs chucks and mini-lathes that come with them, all in the first 10 results! (I did to try to help you, and there were so many nice results I didn't know what would best work for your application) hope this helps! Clemmy

Another posibility would be to pour it sort of as a sheet (like a twister tail), then use your choice of tube cutting contraption to shred into the legs...This should especially work with a tougher plastic intended for saltwater..

might want to email these guys and see, they have more colors of your clevises shown on their site but not listed... www.quickchg.com/

As I said, I'm not sure of Jann's supplier, which is why I had asked in an earlier post...As for Barlow's the color and glitter ARE mf, and as I said I don't know about their plastic/hard/softener... Zeiners DOES however carry the mf product line at a much cheaper price than mf, at least in small quantities... I'm not saying one plastic is better than another, just that saying Zeiners inflates their prices compared to mf is INNCORRECT and in fact just the opposite, mf inflates their prices compared to Zeiners... That said, I've not made an order from Zeiners yet, so I've no idea about service ecetera, just that they're cheaper... Also I noticed that the mf catalog states that they prefer you buy from one of their retailers, so perhaps this is why...

Actually Al, your probally correct if you are big into production (as you are), but it's MF that jacks up the price for the guy that just wants to make worms for himself and friends, or even someone that hopes to go into business someday, but for now is still experimenting with custom colors, plastic formulations, etc. A Comparison on some common items: MF Zeiner's Barlows Janns 1oz color 3.90 2.99 3.29 2.25 2oz glitter 4.45 3.49 3.99 2.49 1gal plastic 48.15 34.99 32.99* *** 1qu. soft. 17.10 12.99 ** 11.69 cost to ship 1gal plastic: 8.50 5.95 6.85 note that while zieners is all mf, * = barlows plastic and hard/softner may not be, but colors and glitter are. 88 = Barlows does not carry softener by the quart and *** Jann's relabels under their own name, I'm not sure who makes (i asked in another post, but no-one answered) Lastly shipping may vary by order, for example mf's tops out as long as it's not too heavy or bulky, while zeiners continues to rise..and barlows varies on shipping zone

I've heard some good things about these, and would like to compare them price/quality wise with Sampo. However, all I've been able to find is their regular barrel type or their heavy duty power swivels.... Anyone have experience with them or a supplier? Thanks!

Anyone ever order soft plastic stuff from janns netcraft? Is MF their supplier or is it someone else??

Okay, just plotting my entry into soft plastics: I figure some molds from del and bobs, as well as homemade.. calhoun plastic from del colors from mf and lurecraft (by the way, just figured out retailers like janns, barlows and zeiners are cheaper on small sizes of mf stuff than mf, anyone know of others? or retailers of lurecraft?) glitter from above and senko sam pouring equipment from wally world scent from pro cure softner/stabilizer: any opinions on mf vs. lurecraft vs. calhoun's? worm oil: what is worm oil? is it menhadden oil? I'm looking for unscented as I've decided on adding my own scents, is what I actually need then mf's plastic lubricant? Anything obvious, or obvious supplier/options I'm missing? Did Prescription Plastics sell pouring stuff or am I mistaken. If so do they have a website? Thanx all! Clemmy Brandon, FL

Rich-- First of all congratulations! I clicked on your website though, and when I clicked on order it was down. Might want to get it back up with the new noteriety you might be getting orders! craig

Well, I think you can tm a color, as long as it's a unique color, for example Hughsey probally could have tm'd "Table Rock Shad" when he first named it, so no other lure maker's could call a color scheme that. Now that so many have copied it, he no longer can as it has become the common name for that color scheme. For example, show a bassman any soft plastic with a version of black back and red belly, ask him what color it is, he'll tell ya red shad, so it's not trademarkable... But say your next jig skirt color scheme you name "munch blue", that I believe could be trademarked. Others could still make a skirt/lure in "munch blue", but could not list it as "munch blue" as the color. Of course, if it was wildly successful, you'd make a ton of money, but then everyone would know it as "munch blue" and so you could no longer enforce your tm. That said, I'd say we're pretty close to the senko being commonized, although many still do refer to them as "stick-bait"... also, if I remember correctly, the term for losing your tm due to overwhelming market share making it the known term (such as xerox for a copy) is "genericide".

Well, I'm no expert, but if GY would have patented the Senko, it would have had to been in 1 of 2 different ways: First, he could have patented the shape of the lure, claiming it gave his lure unique, non-obvious and desirable properties (perhaps the horizontal fall when properlly rigged), and 2:The composition. (This would have been silly of him to do, as everyone could then copy it with minor changes such as slightly different chemicals, etc. He's instead kept it as a Trade Secret, which has no protection but is more secure in some ways--much as coke has never patented it's recipe) That is a good reminder about trademarks tho, those with company names should start using the tm, even if they don't want to go through the expense of registering it...

Hey all, Just getting ready to jump into the soft plastics, slowly been aquiring the neccessary tools, salt, etc. So far I've just been coming up with color combos in my head, who knows what they'll look like when actually made. The thing that makes this tuff for me is that I have no idea what the glitters actually look like. The best I've been able to do is examine your guys's baits in the gallery. For example I read earlier that the purple flake is not a true purple, how light is light royal blue, is blue/black like gun barrel blueing, etc, etc.. I was hoping next time some of you have your digital camera out to take a pic of your latest soft creation, would you mind taking the lids off your glitter jars and snapping a pic of the bunch? No rush, as I'm at least a month or two away from "the big order", but this would help me out a bunch! Perhaps the "Glitter Guy" would also show us his wares. How's his glitter test going now that I think of it...is it standing up to the heat? Thanks all! Craig

www.buzzblade.com/

This probally not what you wanted to hear, but one of the best/easiest is a clear powder coat immediately after pouring to preserve the lead's shine...Pro-tec does make a silver, but i don't think that's what you are looking for. Another possibility is powder coat silver glitter... Somewhat related question, who's found an ok gold? best i've been able to do is gold transparent over the shiny lead...any other ideas on these metallics?

Try this link from a great site on big $ antique lures for a digital photo tutorial: http://www.antiquelurecollectibles.com/Articles/Lure_photography_techniques.htm

Congrats on your new shop! I'd be happy with a workbench! I end up usually only able to dream up lures I'm going to make if I ever get time/space money...My wife calls it "plotting one of your lure ideas.." when she sees me staring off into space.. One thing to consider since your short of time, is that there are companies out there that will make wire forms to your specifications. The cost would cut into your profit, but don't forget you need to pay yourself for the time making the forms. Another option would be investing in one of the wire formers, and lastly, unless you really needed the strength, couldn't you simply incorporate places to insert screw eyes into your mold and simply mold them in? clemmy

My experience with the triple grips are that they hold a fish better, but hook less fish... As to size of hooks, several things to consider..the wider the hook the better for hooking, but the more problems you'll have snagging..I generally want a hook just barely wider than my bait if I'm fishing cover...If the lure is going to be used over riprap/rock/open water, I'll go a size bigger to improve my hookup percentage. Of course changing hook sizes also affect weight, which affects lure action, so it's all a trade-off. Hope this helps, Clemmy

If you are talking about the old rubber skirts like arbogast used to use, I think netcraft has em, also check out Ol' Bens Rubber Skirts at: www.ipa.net/~waschka/RRL/

I don't use them, but happened to check Barlow's new items page today and wanted to let fellow tu members know that they now have lr skirt pads...

It just occured to me the arguement you could make is that "Senko" has become a generic term for a stickbait, much like Xerox is for photocopies...

I thought of the bulldawg at first. Since you're in product development, I thought you might be interested in this, I remembered reading it when I saw your bait, so did a search to find it again, never hurts to study the competition http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/article.asp?aid=136&category=Chat Good Luck!

If I remember correctly, Hagens has em, I'll look in their catalog when I get back from work to make sure...

Ok, I've heard you can't just run to your local Micheals and buy glitter, as it will melt...MF lists their glitter as polyester glitter. Does this mean you can use any polyester glitter? I've went online and found polyester glitter in lots of colors, etc., But what I want to know is it Polyester glitter or some "special" polyester glitter that we use in our baits?

I don't have a lead pot, but I have heard that some use a big cast iron pot on a turkey fryer base (actually heard of this on one of the two boards as an efficient way to melt a bunch of lead to clear the slag i.e. using wheel weights) Also, in Livingston's book, he mentions that the trick to doing spinnerbaits, etc with a production pot is to machine/drill the pour cavities of your mold to mate exactly with the pour spout of the production pot. As I said, I've not yet poured, so am unsure whether this would apply today...(it was an early edition of the book from 10 yrs or so ago)

Hello! Just wondered if any of you muskybait makers have tried these forms? What I'm wondering is what's the best way to twist the loop for the swivel? How hard is it with this thick wire?