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weighinalimit
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Everything posted by weighinalimit
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I've been doing this with Do-It molds for years...use high heat silicone gasket-making goop that Permatex sells in tubes for automotive gasket use. Works like a charm & if you want to remove it later it comes out pretty easily with a little work.
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http://www.fishhound.com/blog/hot-new-technique-kickout-crankin Supposed to make "any crankbait hunt" with a weight in a corkscrew spring that attaches to the rear treble. Anyone seen this yet or have an opinion? Thinking about molding a small ball head jighead on a piece of SS wire & twisting up a corkscrew just to see if it really does work. Gimme some thoughts here guys!
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Help Lure Spins In A Circle.... I Need It To Swim.
weighinalimit replied to J lure's topic in Soft Plastics
Without seeing the bait to know, I can only take a wild guess.......as impossible as it sounds, you probably have too much tail. Seriously, it sounds like the swimming tail section is too much for the bait to stabilize. -
Mark, holler at me if ya need larger ones. I have #1 & #2 Excaliber teardrop splitrings.
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Dealing with WalMart is a terrible idea, just ask Wave Worms how quickly they'll ruin you.....
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You are dead on the money! I have a CSI single dip bed & it has a vibe motor in it, my DIY fluid bed gave me fits til I realized the ONLY difference was vibration. Set me DIY on my scroll saw, turned them both on......PERFECTION!!!!!! No more volcanoes with any color!
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I've used the ZO hooks in a stock Do-It Poisontail jig mold, work quite well as a matter of fact!
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First Trie At The Solarfall Scale Techique!
weighinalimit replied to muskydan666's topic in Hard Baits
Harbor Freight sells that contraption (lol) it as a soldering 3rd hand jig. -
One thing that's helped me alot...commercial fluid beds have a vibrator motor in them, I put my homemade fluid bed on my scroll saw & turn it on then adjust the airflow for each paint. I think the vibration shakes the paint & helps prevent volcano formation. I'm not toadfrog lol but that's one of my "nutty ideas" and it works!
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Highly NOT recommended for this reason....hooks are heat tempered and the soldering/brazing/welding operation will remove the temper from the hook eye, making it soft enough to bend fairly easily. You'll wind up losing a big fish & getting your heart broke when the eye straightens out & your jig leaves the wire arm. Sorry to bust your idea, but I'd hate to see ya do all that work just to see it fail to hold your fish.
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You don't get many out of each one, but I made some out of those clear suction cups that went to some christmas ornaments (made to hang in a window), just DON'T tell my wife that's where they went to!!!
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I have 6 new in box Shimano Citica 200E reels, $95.00 each including shipping. Switching to ABU Revo reels so I don't need these. leave msg here or email me weighinalimit@sbcglobal.net
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Was looking at some different swimbaits & just wondered what differences (action, max & min. swim speeds, etc) are there between the single paddle tail ie baby E and the ones with (for lack of correct term lol) a double paddle tail, the one that looks like some of the Tool models, having sort of an upper & lower paddle? Is one better than the other or is the "double paddle" prohibitably more difficult to produce? I've noticed them mainly on higher$$ baits, anyone have info or opinion?
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I have some left over in 2 sizes, the small ones are clear and I have large ones in black. Post back or email me if these would work. weighinalimit@sbcglobal.net
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Help On How To Refinish A Bunch Of Old Rc 1 & 3
weighinalimit replied to CL Rods's topic in Hard Baits
You're probably going to think I'm nuckin' futs.....but after painting a BUNCH of old RC's & Poe's, I can promise you the easiest way is to use a propane torch to set the paint on fire for a few seconds, blow it out then scrape the old paint (now quite soft) off with a fairly dull paring knife. You'll be amazed how clean you can make a cedar bait in under 5 minutes, then a little sanding, seal it with your fav. sealer as if it was a new wood bait. Give it a try on one bait & you'll see it's true... a lot less pain in the arse & when you come from base wood up with the better sealer/paint/clearcoat we all use now, those baits will last 10x as long without the cracking, crazing & other defects many had. -
I figured a way to make these..I take the inside of a bic stik ink pen (the ink tube part) clean it out with lighter fluid & a small bit of cotton pushed thru with spinnerbait wire. Cut the tube in 5/16" long pcs, stick a toothpick in one end of a pc and hold it close to a lighter flame. The plastic will melt into a "mushroom shape", stick it in water to harden, turn the pc around and repeat so you wind up with a hourglass shaped plastic pc that will be the inner tube. Fasten your choice of skirting with thread or wire and viola', you have a redneck tech "punch skirt"!
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I got some of the "tarantula" rubber, not at all like the old flat rubber....strands are twice as wide, thin and not good for much but BIG fat hairy "mop jigs" JMHO tho, some guys might like it.
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Jim, I cut a stir paddle from an aluminum street sign I talked a Hwy Dept. guy into giving me (ran across him replacing an old one & begged for the "junk sign" lol) then drilled holes in a piece of steel shafting to bolt it to. Cut the shaft to length so the paddle would clear the bottom of the pot then used a 2 part marine epoxy putty to glue it into the motor assembly.
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Jim, you could go the "super cheapazz way" like I did & use a motor from an electric ice cream maker. Don't know the exact specs on it but mine was free, turns apprx. 50rpm & runs on 110 volts so I whipped up a mount & paddle attachment for it, works good so far!
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What you're asking isn't a "sprue" as such, it's a model of a sprue hole to add to the moldmaking right? If so, you can use just about anything you want for it. Wax, clay, carved piece of soap, etc. I use a propane torch to heat an area on a plastic 1 gal milk jug till it's clear then push a plumb bob into the clear area & hold for a few seconds, forms a perfect plastic cone that can be cut to the desired length & makes a good pour hole for the mold.
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JMHO, but James Heddon & the other lure makers of the late 1800's & early 1900's didn't have airbrushes, printers to make "photo-finishes" or super clear & hard epoxy clearcoats, yet they were successful in creating lures that not only caught fish but this class of "primitive lure" caught the world record largemouth. I'm not saying that "perfect enough to be real" finishes aren't great, just not always really necessary for a fish catching bait. Look at spinnerbaits, no matter how carefully you craft them, they don't look like a real food item, only giving an illusion of something alive when retreived properly. Does a firetiger or black back/ chart. crank look like anything natural? Not really, just gives visual clues to create an optical illusion of a food source. Give it a try before deciding it won't work, how many bubblegum colored worms have you seen in the wild? lol:yay:
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Can someone identify the machine in this video
weighinalimit replied to speechless33759's topic in Hard Baits
If you wouldn't mind answering 1 question, do you cut lip slots before or after shaping the body, & if after, how do you cut the slot square to the baits centerline? Thanks in advance. -
Yep, tried it many different ways. Nope, won't work, tears up & ya lose your jig and/or fish.
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Trying to make a mold of a lure I dont have...
weighinalimit replied to BaloneyTony's topic in Soft Plastics
I'm surprised nobody's told ya the true low buck way....drop a 10.5 or 11 inch paddletail worm into boiling water for about 20 seconds, pick it out, lay in the desired S shape & let cool. Just the reverse of straightening swimbaits with boiling water. -
Gloomisman, I have some Mustad hooks that are almost the same, has a 28 degree front leg & is black nickel, but instead of round bend they are more of a sproat bend. It's the weighted hooks Mustad used to sell, minus the weight & keeper prong. If ya want a few to try, email me an addy & I'll mail you some, I have 3/0, 4/0 & 5/0. I've been using them in the poisontail jig mold, they fit perfect & work out well, esp. for a swimming jig.