Husky

Dave, Use a MR on the POP. Butcher Block Wax (paste wax)works great.

I have to ditto you. NH's lead restriction makes sense. A total ban is just a baseless, agenda driven goal by some group or person who believe they know what's good for everyone, even if they are wrong! Marine birds don't eat sinkers, they generally would eat pellet shot and tiny pieces that they percieve to be grit or food, not 5 oz Canal jigs.

The silicone will only hold a small amt. of water and the excess will run off, so don't concern yourself about metering the water. The odor is the acetic acid escaping as the silicone cures. The smell will most definitely disappear in a short time. ONE member here said he felt a burning sensation when he touched water that was standing on the mold for a while, but to date I've never experienced any issue with the acid that is built into the silicone. You are more than careful in regard to the precautions you've taken. Once the silicone is cured, no gloves are needed but if you're pouring hot plastic, it may be wise to wear the gloves as protection from the hot plastisol. Mike P I'm heading back onto the roof for more chimney repairs so Good Luck and post some pics. TIA The silicone will only hold a small amt. of water and the excess will run off, so don't concern yourself about metering the water. The odor is the acetic acid escaping as the silicone cures. The smell will most definitely disappear in a short time. ONE member here said he felt a burning sensation when he touched water that was standing on the mold for a while, but to date I've never experienced any issue with the acid that is built into the silicone. You are more than careful in regard to the precautions you've taken. Once the silicone is cured, no gloves are needed but if you're pouring hot plastic, it may be wise to wear the gloves as protection from the hot plastisol. Mike P I'm heading back onto the roof for more chimney repairs so Good Luck and post some pics. TIA

I mentioned this before on TU. I found that adding a bit of D2T to Etex helps the Etex to set up noticeably quicker and adds a bit more viscosity with no negative issues. Try starting with appx 5-1 Etex to D2T.

Did you go to the paint section? That's where I find mine. Ace Hardware stores brand will also work.

Yes. The Glitter will adhere to the Epoxy. Here are some FoTins done that way. No Paint at all, just Glitter. They're much more reflective than the pics show.

I stumbled on this method while working on a Shiny finish for my FoTins. Here goes. Mix some D2T. Cover one finger with the finger from a plastic glove or a plastic bag. In a pinch, you can use plastic wrap to cover the finger. Apply a thin coat of D2T on the lure with your finger tip and immediately apply .008 glitter. When that sets, apply another "finger" coat of D2T to lock it in and give a nice base to paint on. When the 2nd coat sets, you can add whatever finish you want over it. It's quick, easy and gives a great effect. When done painting, Top Coat. I have been using the "finger method" to apply epoxy coats rather than brushing. It is a great method. Give it a try. I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised. And that's what I learned at "Hammer Mechanic School" this week.

Posted by skippylures, on SOL Angry New Exacto Blades,,warning Okay I buy Exacto brand blades in bulk 100 at a time, so I have not bought them for about two years, when they get dull I resharpen them.. Lets get to it, the new box of blades come, and the slightest pressure breaks them and sends them flying through the air, be very careful to wear eye protection, they were bouncing of my forehead, and one even stuck in the wall after snapping, I order a new box and the blades do the same, they cannot be resharpend, looking for a replacement for exacto now. I called my supplier, and he says they might of moved their manufacturing over seas I kid you not, these new blades are going to hurt someone, no matter how gentle you try to be, they snap please be careful __________________

Pete, try scoring the mold with thin lines to allow any trapped air to escape and improve the flow. They can be very fine and won't effect the castings, one bit. Just make them extend to the outside of the mold, from the cavity

I picked up white candle dye at Michaels. The $2.99 piece is enough to color 16 lbs of wax. I tried some, and a very little bit ,in 2 oz of Calhoun's came out a bright white. It comes in a lot of colors. Unlike crayons, there is no "Bleed" like fries on paper, that you get if you put a crayon colored bait in a paper bag on paper or in an envelope. That's what I learned at Hammer Mechanic School, today. I saw this after I posted. 152 Street Baits posted it in the Crayons Thread. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/12988-crayons-for-color/page__view__findpost__p__149234 http://stores.ebay.c...http://stores.ebay.com/CANDLECHEM-COMPANY?_rdc=1

....or does your family and friends give you strange looks, laugh and make remarks when you tackle test. in the pool?

Hey Manny, You can't go wrong using a 27 shore or higher RTV Silicone for your molds and Urethane Resin in conjunction with 3M microspheres. If you use the search feature here, you'll find a wealth of info. Good Luck.

Happy 4 th Bunky! Isn't it a bit early for you, couldn't sleep? BTW, the "Finger Painting Method" works well with SC 9000

By using the "Finger Painting method" I described, there is no need to thin, as you will increase your speed by a lot!

Here's a way to apply it without thinning it. You can use this method with most other TC's. I Don't know about DN. You can get D2T in 9 oz bottles on line.

It is fragile and will break if it hits anything hard.

Another option, here.

Check out the shipping rates to send it overseas, A lot of overseas guys, right here, can't get plastic without giving up a lung for payment. Some Euro or Afro entrepreneur may be glad to create a win/win situation for your 3 1/4 tons! Just sayin'.

Hey Bob, Try hitting it with a paint made for plastic like the Krylon product if you want to change the lip color. Here's something you might want to try: Put a thin coat of D2T on the lip, before assembling the plug, coating it with .008 glitter, then top coating the lip when you TC the plug. The effects will be really nice.

I remedied that problem by making the sprue larger so that the plastic flows in quicker and that the spew reservoir holds enough hot reserve plastic to supply the casting with ample plastic to offset the shrinkage caused by cooling. Here's a view of what I did. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/19705-two-part-pop-molds-for-swim-baits/page__p__147363__fromsearch__1#entry147363

I'm glad you found the info useful. I was coating some models I made for Soft Plastic baits and I hit on it. Sometimes we don't see the Forest for the trees. I think those produce bags they supply at the super Market will work, too. Talk about cheap! Just a caveat, but some latex gloves have powder on them.