Husky

Try spraying with the new H20 paints. No odor, water clean up and they cover very nicely. I think Krylon is the MFG here in the U.S.

See my post in this thread. Get back to me when you can.

This is from the Striper Board. The method seems saner than placing digits near a router blade. JMHO Husky, when I made them from ayc I started with 2X2 which I cut down the middle to get 2 3/4 x 1.5" pieces. I picked up 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 8, there is a center line going down the middle on one side, i cut off a piece a couple of feet long and then cut it lengthwise on the bandsaw right on that line dividing it into 2 3/4 X 1.5" pieces that were roughly 2 feet long. This gave me stock similar to what I was using before. Then I just lay out the template alternating them from one side to the other, belly of the hook on the outside of the board. Run it over a 3/8 round over bit on both sides and now the bottom of the plugs are round. Drill the holes for weight and belly hook, then cut down the middle between the 2 rows of plugs, kind of get 2 long s shaped curved pieces. Run the curves over a belt sander to smooth out the saw blade edges from the bandsaw, and then back to the router table to curve over the tops of the plugs. From there you just cut the indiviual plugs off and then you just need to sand the shape of the head on the belt/disk sander and thru drill. Yes these are thru drilled, and it drills really easy. And the stuff cuts easier on the bandsaw than wood. Really theres only 2 downsides to it that I can see. 1. it does smell when you work with it 2. the sawdust is plastic and needs to go to the dump rather than into the fireplace. Here's a link with the pictures.

Until Jerry gets the picks up, check this out. I will delete this when the tutorials are back up with picks.

Same here!.. Personally, I get a hoot out of sharing info with you guys.

Either way will work. Just use a good Mold Release if you cast the slot into the mold. 16 lb density foam cuts like wood. You might want to try putting a thin line where the cut is to go on your model. That'll give your mold an exact cutting reference, in any event. What's DD22?

For personal use only. Does anyone have a link.

Hey guys, Jerry has been jumping through hoops ever since the server crashed. He lost all the sites pictures in one fell swoop. He's now trying to recapture the tutorial pictures and place them back. In the mean time here's a quick link to the tutorial pages. They should answer a lot of questions.

shopmaninc.com, 16lb wt.

Are we supposed to take your word for it? I'm PMing you my mailing address so you can send it along for further scrutiny! Primo work,

I just mix it until it slightly more than whole milk like. There are guys here who Have been using it for a lot longer than me. I was using plastic utensil for a few years. Use the Search function for more info on it.

The key with finishing any lure you cast, is to make sure you remove every trace of mold release. I wipe mine down with alcohol and was them in really hot soapy water, then thoroughly rinse with hot water. I like to base coat with a dip of disolved plastic. The Bottom one received a few dips. Tally made a tutorial on how to make the stuff. Propionate Pellets are better than cups and are available on Ebay or through Swede. I use flat head nails as my guide pins. I insert them appx. 1/2" into the clay prior to pouring the first half and make sure I cover the heads with atleast 1/2" of whatever Material I'm using to make the mold from. Here's a pictue of a Bondo Mold I made for Jig Heads. I get perfect alignment everytime and I'm able to put the halves together w/o distutbing the weights and harnesses I'm casting into the castings. I've used the hard urethane rubber, shore hardness 80 with good results. The Tin Sil Silicone looks to be a good product. Here's an early Poes mold w/o locating pins. The material is Urethane rubber, Shore 80 hardness. As Travis said, you can get good results from rigid (Bondo, etc) molds, but the molds must be perfect. w/o any undercuts. The Softer mor flexible rubbers allow for some margin of error, although I must say, you should strive for perfection in any even. Freemans Tutorials are very informative and they make it look easy.

Start here. Use the Highest Shore Hardness RTV or Urethane rubber from here. Also use the Universal Spray Mold release. PM's welcomed.

Skeeter, I have a Tutorial which I can Email you.

The pictures alright, but I feel it needs closer inspection, so I will PM you my mailing address.

Jerry is in the process of fixing that situation. Keep checking the Tutorials (Select from the beginning instead of 100 days and watch for pictures to be added. I added some to the photo and faux finishing one, this afternoon.)

All supplies can be got at shopmaninc.com. Use either the Urethane rubber or the Tin Sil RTV in the highest Shore hardness. While Bondo and Plaster can work, the come in a distant second to the Urethane and Silicone Rubber. PM me if you need to know more.

Then my recommendation is not to use Smooth-0n foam. The 16lb wt foam from shopmaninc.com is rock hard, harder than most woods! I've literally hit it with a hammer and it stood up to the punishment.

Thanks Joe. The key with using foam is to use it relatively soon after purchasing it, washing the lures to remove all traces of Mold release, Let them cure out before finishing, dip them in a plasticoat of choice, and then finish as you would any other lure. While there are better products, many of them are cost prohibitive. At Shopmaninc.com, you can get 4 lbs of foam for under $20. When you're making a lot of big baits, that is a huge savings. When finished in accordance to the steps I mentioned, the results are quite comparable with other products.

Like I said, I still have jars of dissolved utensils to get through. I use Rattle cans so the solvents in the mixes won't allow me to top coat. I wish I could use it as a TC because my baits are big and it's a pain to use the Epoxy TC's on big baits, IMO. What I do use it for is over my photo foil creations as the 1st TC. It quickly fills the seams and doesn't react to the inks on the tissue. If memory serves, some member here said that they TC over water based paints that are heat cured.

Dan, The Foam I get is 16 lb wt which I pay $48 U.S. for 16 lbs. That would make many more than 8 lures, more like 100. This product will come out as hard as a rock. " 16 LB Density Urethane Foam Common Applications: This 16LB density foam is essentially as hard as a rock, you would need a hammer in order to make any dents in this product. Can be used for sculpting or the casting of objects that require superior toughness and strength. More questions? [Try our Foam FAQ.]

I don't know what you pay for foam, but I get 2 gals for $48 (Shopmaninc.com)US and Featherlite runs $75 per 1 gal.