Husky

From their site. The Wander is unique among hard plastic baits. It is in a class by itself called a stickbait. Offhand, I can't think of another hard plastic stickbait out there although several soft plastic stickbaits come to mind - the Zoom Fluke, Bass Assassin and Gary Yamamoto's Senko. The Wander does what these softies do - except the Wander doesn't tear apart and of course, has trebles. Cast the Wander out, and simply retrieve it slowly on a semi-tight line. True to its name, the Wander will amble and wander back, dallying from side to side instead of a straight line. The first cast I ever made with one, watching it wander back in, a big bass whacked it! Throw in a little rod twitch, jerk it or rip it, and watch the Wander do essentially the same as you'd expect from a Fluke, Bass Assassin or other soft stickbait. Yes you can walk the dog underwater with it if you set up a cadence to do that; or just twitch and jerk it irregularly and let it pause to sink helplessly between jerks. That's usually how to work soft stickbaits - with irregular pops and pauses, which works great with the Wander also. When you pause the retrieve, just like the venerable Yamamoto Senko, the Wander will sink slowly, rocking, shifting, shimmying its body as it falls perfectly horizontally. There's one other tactic that's deadliest with the larger Wander 95 model. Keep it skipping and scooting right on the surface in a frantic topwater presentation. The speed and splashiness of the presentation gets fish to react instinctively. This is about the fastest, purest form of reaction bait fishing you can ever hope to try.

I do it to get a super Smooth surface to Finish on. Foam can be finished w/o recoating if all the release agents and other materials are removed.

After they're thoroughly washed, Tally's Platicoat is the Bomb.

See Tally's Tutorial in the How-To section. It's used only as a sealer as its' base is lacquer thimmer, which will remove any painted finish.

Etch, fix this guy up. My buddy from Ontario has been busy this winter.

Travis, The dark part started to crystalize and the castings came out much less dense and lacked the hardness they had, previously. It was as if the 16 lb turned to 4 lb weight. It was much lighter in color, too. The foam expanded much more and faster. Which brand did you use? I used US Composites. The stuff worked fine up to about 3 weeks. BTW, I touched up your pics. It deserved to be seen. Nice job:wink:

What is the name of that plastic and where can it be got? TIA

I used the 16 Lb Wt foam from http://www.Shopmaninc.com Only buy as much as you'll use in 3 weeks as it deteriorates after opening. You can buy more, in smaller kits, provided you don't open them. That's just one body material, and probably the cheapest.

There are clear plastic cup and utensils that also work, which are harder than the white cups. Truth be told, I am not sure hardness is an advantage when it comes to sealing. Some give may be desireable. JMHO. I used that clear concoction on some test PVC, and 2 thin coats makes the PVC smooth as can be and it will not scratch off, even with a knife.

Check out what Diggin Jiggin did. http://www.stripersonline.com/ubb547/ultimatebb.php/topic/11/5980.html

Hundreds. The key is to let it cool when it starts getting hot. If you make 2 or 3 you can rotate the pours and pretty much keep rolling for quite a while. I have jig molds that I've used for over 2 years. If you mix some Bondo resin into the bondo, it will make the mixture honey like and catch all the fine details. See my tutorial on Bondo Molds in the How To. It works for lead pours as well as for Foam.

I've had good results with Bondo. It is ready for pouring , almost, immediately after it sets and is innexpensive.

See Tallys Tutorial in the Knowledge Base (How To) for plasticoating and the other one on how to seal wood. Botrhn should be very helpful.

Just use a glass bead big enough to block the opening, affixed with 5 min epoxy.

Start here and follow the lessons to page 5. http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/kb.php?mode=article&k=49

Cliff, Jeb et al. Coley sent me a sample and I wanted to get more, but didn't need a $200 4x8 sheet, just yet. I had to go searching. I just got back from Lowes. (HD has it too) In the Moulding Department, they have PVC Trim Moulding. It appears to be the same as the Celtec Board. A 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 8 Costs about $18 and a 5 1/2 wide is $26. A 2" x 3/16 x 8 ft piece was $5.20. It floats, and a guy showed how strong it bonded with PVC Cement. End To End and it was as though it had never been cut. It is very easy to cut with a scroll blade. Waterproof, relatively inexpensive, consistent weighting, Very Strong, needs no sealing, easily obtained and comes in a natural white color. My work is done!

Dang Rob, you become a machine, once you get in gear. Kudos on those pieces of lumber.

It's taking me a very long time to navigate, within the site.

http://www.stripersonline.com/cgi-bin/ubb_547C/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/11/5631.html?http://www.stripersonline.com/cgi-bin/ubb_547C/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/11/5631.html?

Pictures would help out, even more.

Shopmaninc.com are in FL and have the lowest prices I have found. Be advised, Once opened, the foam is only good for about 3 wks or so. That means buy it in units that you will use in that time frame. Only buy the 16 pound foam. The 4lb kit totals out to about 1/2 gallon, which will expand to double that size. PM me with any questions.

I demold when the foam on the spew hole is solid, but not rock hard. 30 minutes is longer than the time I use. Give that a try. My vent hole is appx 1/8th "