Husky

Hey Jedm I got these at the local $ Store, but as I said, Wrapping Saran Wrap around your finger works as well.

I'm not sure about GE Sil. Try a small batch to see if it will set wit H2O. ]If it does it most definitely will be good for molds.[/b] I have an updated method in the works.. It allows for full pours. Here's the original. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/16783-diy-an-instant-12-rd-rtv-silicone-mold-for-under-a-buck/

I recently stated using clear plastic gloves to spread the Epoxy ( both Etex and D2T) with good results. I just use 1 finger. They're not Latex, but polyethelene. I've also used Saran wrap with the same, good results. It makes for a fast, even application.

They do sell thinner for it BUT, test a small batch out using Mineral Spirits as a thinner. I've done it in the past as I had some old RTV that thickened up. Add a little MS at a time until you reach the right viscosity. The molds I did this to are over a year old and are no worse for using the MS.

Just an observation, but I found that Prop does not adhere well to metal. Add to that, the solvents used to melt it can react with your paint and other things under it. I do like it for sealing wood, but I haven't had good fortune using it for other purposes.

Here's a better look. I hope that helps. I add the spew Carve it) after I cast the plaster.

Thanks. My spew is long and narrow so it allows air to escape as the plastic goes in. Zoom in on the pour in the mold to get a better look. I also made a large reservoir so the plastic has some reserves. I'll try to get you a better pic for that. M

Here's a 4" deep bellied, flat tailed swim bait mold and pours. Mold is POP, sealed with Elmers. The mold has a nice tight fit and the pours need minimal clean up. No problems with any of the pours, each coming out of the mold in fine shape.

If 1 oz yields 6, 6" baits, that same oz will yield 8, 4.5" baits. A gallon yielding 768 6" baits will yield appx. 1024 4.5" baits. (768 / .75)

I've made two piece, soft plastic molds from POP, sealing them with a 50/50 mix of water/Elmers Glue All. RTV will work very well but is expensive while POP is next to free. I needed to make the spew long and narrow and had to pour Horizontally rather than vertically, to avoid voids. 6 Inch, Deep Belly 4.5 Inch

I used the water cured silicone sealant. The difference in the lures is about 10%, which is a lot. Usually, I remove the models relatively quickly but I will experiment with leaving the model in the Silicone for a longer time (more than 1/2 hour) to see if that will make a difference. Don't you just hate shrinkage?

Here's what I'm talking about.

I made some swimbait molds from a model of my own design. The first few are made from slicone using the squish method. I had some POP/Durhams around so, I made a mold using the same model. When I looked at the pours. side by side, the POP pourings were noticeably. larger, appx 1/4 inch longer and proportionally wider, on a 3" casting, BUT the pours are totally symetrical, not stretched or in anyway compromised. They are just larger. Actually, I'm OK with it as now I have 2 sizes but I'm a bit miffed how this could have occurred. After comparing further, The POP pours are the same size as the original model (A hard urethane model, ) with the Silicone pours being smaller. "Curiouser and Curiouser." I don't have a comparison shot of the pours side by side yet, but here are some pics of the Silicone mold and pour which were the ones not following the models dimensions. MODEL SILICONE MOLD POUR

FWIW, I sealed an old POP mold with 100% Silicone sealant. I applied it in a very thin glaze coat. It performed quite well and released the pours very easily.. If anyone has a tired POP mold and some 100% Silicone give it a shot. (Walmart Mainstay Brand works great,) It'll fill in any small blemishes and gives the pours a shiny finish. That's what I learned at Hammer Mechanics School, today.

It's truly fascinating to see what a trained professional can produce. In my dreams, I make molds just like that one! I only wish that you need to get another one or two to keep up with demand.

OK, listen up.... Put a dab of silicone caulk on your finger tip and ply it into the mold cavity. Create a glaze. It will lay smooth and fill in all the holes and imperfections, guaranteed. I've used Pam with none of the effects you mentioned. I can't help you there. FWIW, I've reduced the cost of RTV mold malking by using just enough RTV to barely covering the model, allowing it to cure and then fill the remainder of the mold box with the Silicone caulk water mix.

If you're dealing with a complex soft model, I would say, the very best way to make a 2 part mold using conventional molding RTV...BUT for the sake of frugality, you can greatly reduce costs by using less expensive Sealer RTV in conjuction with the molding RTV.. RTV uses appx 20 gms per sq in. Knowing that, you can mix just enough to cover the model. When that sets, fill the rest of the mold box with the caulking/water mix. It will extend your RTV by 2 to 3 times, or more! Plus, molding RTV will yield terrific rendition and results. MicoMark sells a real easy to mix, 1 to 1 molding silicone. Piscivorous Pike has a few posts about making 2 Pt molds making in this thread, I believe.

Elmers dries clear. I guess some dry clearer than others.

20 gms per cu in. So that mold would make about 2 1/2. But 1" thick is more than adequate so you should be able to make at least 3. If you just barely cover the model and if it's appx 1/2 " you could back fill with a silicone/water mix. That would allow you to get See my thread on DIY a 1/2 rd...., Doing that would make appx 7 1/4 molds from that pound. PM if you need more. M

Thanks for that heads up. When I make molds that way, any excess water drains off at mixing and that's the last time water touches the mold. But the acetic odor is the acid evaporating, like it does with vinegar. My guess is the excess water probably trapped and concentrated it. This one will go into the Hammer Mechanic's Handbook.

JMHO, but a well gnawed bait has the perfect finish!

No, not in the least. It dries clear. See the pics in my earlier post.

Epoxy is a must as you need it to build up where the seams meet, plus it wont react with the glue, where as laquer might.

Try cutting a piece of pvc pipe in half length wise. Glue some coarse Sand paper in one side finer in the other. That will let you get that rounded shape with a minimum hassle. AJP gave that hint on another board.