Husky

Here are some better shots, that show what a great job SK does with an airbrush. Now if he could only show me how to do that with rattle cans!

Here's a mold I just finished. It's heading north of the 49th. The casting has thru wire, with the SS wire connected to the lip. That was the very first casting in the mold. I Sure hope it finds a good home.... Hilton, Thanks for validating the durability of 16lb Foam. Those are some formidable dentures on that critter. Other than some paint, that plug looks quite serviceable. I experienced the same deal here, with Chopper Bluefish. Other than scratches to the paint, the plugs were unscathed.

And I have to say, they're drop dead gorgeous! I swear, the man could paint a broomstick and make it look live. Thanks SK

I just finished up one for a friend. Here it is after a few dips in Plastic, ready to be finished.

Huge earth quake and tidal waves hit from Sri Lanka to the Pacific. Thousands dead. I mention this because LaPala is Form Indonesia, which was especially hard hit. I hope he's unscathed.

Many of you have had a problem getting the plastic to disolve. It has been brought to my attention, by Tally, that it was due to the lacquer thinner being used. I guess they all "ain't" the same. Thanks Tally

Cody, resin and Bondo have a "Shinkage" factor. As they cure they tighten down even more. If you remove the model as the Bondo is begining to set the removal process is relatively easy. That's because the bondo is still not fully hardened and hasn't shrunk yet. Post pics of you method, please, souns interesting.

Oh dear Lord, I hope this doesn't turn into an Etex/Devcon thing. Here are some simple facts. a. 16 lb foam is stronger than nearly any wood, let alone Balsa. b. as these baits are impervious to water, they will not leak, split or lose balance. c. All your castings will be more or less identical. The only variations will be the ones the builder put in them. (Intentional or otherwise. ) d. The speed which you can produce them is incredibly faster. Much of the rote, busy work is eliminated. e. It feels more like a piece of hard maple, sounds like it too. It is nothing like the plastic lures you've seen. Is it better than wood? That is a question the builder has to answer for himself. Chip, one of the best wood builders around, now makes most of his line out of "Other than wood materials." You can't spend 2 hours on a plug and make money at it. Some here spend much more than that. I don't sell my plugs, but I don't see why I should engage in all that "BUSY WORK", building a plug that a Bluefish will trash in one hookup. Coleys and Cliffs work sure look saleable to me. What do you think? It's relatively inexpensive to try (Unless you trash a $40 plug as a model! ) So check it out for yourself. I'm sure Coley will take any unused portion of the stuff if you're dissatisfied. JMHO

Sorry for your loss. If you used a razor to cut it back down to the mid line, and if it was sprayed with WD 40 or something similar and AND if you took it out before the Bondo fully hardened It should have came out. Also, gently prying it, front to rear until it pops helps. So, Now you have a somewhat wrecked plug, but all is not lost. You only need the plug for its shape, so clean it up as well as possible. You should be able to restore it enough to use it as a model again. Cutting the excess Bondo to the center line is crucial. Otherwise it's like trying to get a 12 Foot truck under an 11.5 foot Bridge. Try again.

Hey Conman. You can buy a 4lb kit for about $18. The kit is basically 2 1 qt cans' date=' 1 of each part. That translates to 1/2 gallon of raw product, which expands. I never did a count but I'm thinking it'd yield in excess of 100 lures, depending on size, of course. [url']http://www.shopmaninc.com[/url] You can get a 16lb kit, 2 gals for $48. Pick up some Mold release wax and PVA while you're there, if you want results like Cliff, above. I feel obligated to say that I am in no way connected to that company. It's just that their Prices, products, service and customer service are excellent!

Thank you. I told Coley that I'm looking foward to getting feed back an inovative ideas from those here who gave it a try. I may have started the fire, but Coley shoveled the coal! So, when are you going to take the plunge??

Great stuff, Cliff. I assume that is with the PVA release agent. JMHO, but that seems to be the best way to attach the lip. You get the best of both worlds, the Foam adhesion and the thru wire. As I mentioned to Coley, I was very surprised at the extreme strength of the Lexan/Foam connection. There must be a chemical bond that happens between the 2. Kudos to you and Coley on your work and research.

Coating the model with devcon makes for a better mold. You jusy have to retrace your center lines after it sets.

We want some Pics...That set up sound pretty bullet proof. What size and type wire did you use in it? Welcome to "FOAM NATION"

I'm fine with lip and the foam, but, now, I'm kinda worried about the Nylone Seine line.

Wait until you see what Coley has just completed. Incredible.

Here are some pics by a really talented new builder. I've taken the liberty to post these shots without asking Rob Gilberson, because I think he might want to remain anonymous.