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Husky

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Everything posted by Husky

  1. Here are some Pics; I got tired of scrounging for appropriate weights for the plugs so I made a mold (Yes, out of Bondo) for lead inserts. I guess I'll have to make various sizes. This one was made from a 1" long, 7/16" piece of Dowel. The hole insert is a 1/16" SS welding rod. The rod was remove with the mold closed. It will slide right out. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v476/Grmstr/MOFO/L1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v476/Grmstr/MOFO/L2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v476/Grmstr/MOFO/L3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v476/Grmstr/MOFO/L4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v476/Grmstr/MOFO/L5.jpg
  2. Over on the Saltwater front, many of us soak our plugs in boiled linseed oil and then have them dry out for about a week before finishing. The linseed will keep the water from getting into the wood under fishing conditions. Just my $.02
  3. Husky

    Here's the popper

    Hello Max, I think you may find this interesting.http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=3073&highlight=axman Mike P
  4. Husky

    top coat

    Hey Johnny Boy, I suggest You use the search function and search for Etex or Envirotex. It's all been asked and answered here. It'll give you all you need to know.
  5. A guy on another board told me to use PVC pipe, cut in half and lined with sand paper to round flat baits. Cut away the obvious excess then sand. 3/4 and 1/2 inch sizes should suffice for most baits. A bit crude, but it works for this hobbyist.
  6. Try your local Ace True Values store. Both of the ones near me carry it, and for a lot less. Jusy my $.02
  7. Husky

    Dbait topcoat

    Have you tried warming up the E Tex or Devcon before mixing? That should thin the viscosity a bit.
  8. Enuff already, I'm gonna use ETEX! Chip err um MIKE P
  9. Heh, I went to Wall World today and saw 2 Ton 30 min. that had a yellowish part. What's that about? didn't always have 2 clear parts?
  10. I live between Nashua and Manchester. Does anyone live nearby?
  11. The more I mess with foam, the more I'm convinced that rigid molds are the way to go. Foam expands way more than featherlite and presents expansion problems that featherlite deoesn't. Conversely, foam yields an indestructable product and with some practice, is very manageable. Cheaper, Too. Spent some time today with casting into Bondo Molds, using Vaseline/mineral spirit as arelease agent and coating the cavity with talc. If the mold is symetical, read NO UNDERCUTS, the lure will pop out, smooth as a baby's rump, mimicking the model perfectly.
  12. Soft RTV will rip and even though it's been said that Mold release is not needed, I've had some sporadic sticking in a few molds. Vy isthe guy to ask about Epoxy Molds. He seems happy with the results as long as the right release agents is properly applied. BTW, Epoxy molds must be perfect, or that foam puppy ain't coming out in one piece. Foam is cheap, strong, waterproof and sets up fast. With a few molds in action, you can be making 3 every 20 minutes, sans wire and hardware installation. I had a bunch of Bluefish chewing on the same plug and I couldn't even detect a scratch. These are fish that can seperate you from your fingers in a heartbeat. A wooden plug would have been relegated to the repair shop.
  13. I have always found it helpful to seal the seams with a clear coating. Nothing worse than to have the edges lift as you clear coat.
  14. http://www.antiquefishinglures.com/chub.htm Does this give anyone any ideas?
  15. Thanks Vy, I do have one question. In part 2, youy made no mention of mold release application. I assume that the procedure is the same as in part 1. We all know seperating the two epoxy halve will be quite a task if the release agent isn't done exactly correct. Can't wait for the trilogy! And how do you make the models so symetrical, so they don't have undercuts and are identical on both sides? You, my friend are a bit of a sculptor. BTW, the www.vlasenko.ru site made for some challenging reading. :oops:
  16. The thinner would ruin any paint job so melted lexan, as a clear top coat, wouldn't work. Fusion and regular Krylon work the same over the plastic. You'll be more than pleasantly surprised, Once you see how the plastic works.
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