Husky
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Everything posted by Husky
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Thanks Vy, That mold release frim Smoothon actually allow the palstic model to release with ease? What kind of resin are you using, please. Looking foward to the Sequel. :
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I'll give it a go, tomorrow. I keep the mixture a bit thicker than whole milk by adding thinner, in small increments. The finish is transparent but the coating is smooth and even. About 3 dips and it is ready for paint even though it remains seni transparent. Hopefully, by sealing an waterproofing this way, I can keep the top coat to one coat and keep the finish strong, but thin.
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I heard that the best place to do that kind of work is in your basement boiler room!
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Coley and Cheeshead, I just looked at the plastic cuos I have that did work. They were 5 oz. Solo cups, packe 96 to a package. I did have to add thinner from time to time. Have your globs thinned down yet?
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I bought some cheapo cups ang they wouldn't disolve. I went to the Supermarket and bought their brand and they disolved pretty quickly. If they look intact after an hour switch to another plastic.
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This is a thinner base product and I am 99.9% sure it'll Trash any paint Job you put it on. Still, the while base coat is pretty cool for start. The clear may be better in that it doesn't have any coloring agents added.
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Yes, you must cover the jar between uses. You may even have to add thinner from time to time. JMHO, but it's better to have the consistancy a bit too thin and give an additional coat than to overload the plug. Practice on scraps til you get the hang of it. Allow for the plastic to completely disolve. It should look like thin white paint. You can lightly sand between coats if you desire.
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FYI, You all. Here is a tester that i had soaking overnight. It had only 2 thin coats and was soaked nose (cut side) down. It's paintable as soon as the lacquer thinner evaporates, which is a very short time. 8+ hrs under water and then dried out. I used Hard white plastic cups and lacquer thinner and brought it to theconsistency of watery paint. Just my $.02.
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On another site I read about using an innovative way to seal plugs. It consists of dissolving plastic i.e. as plastic cups and plastic utensils in lacquer thinner. Once they are totally disolved, add enough thinner to get the mixture to the correct consistancy (thin paint). Dip the raw lure into the mixture, allowing about 15 minutes between coats until the desired thicness is achieved. The results will be a durable, waterproof coating, which will seal the wood in a layer of plastic. Anyone here ever try it?
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Here's a Specific Gravity Chart for nearly every wood. Maybe this will keep you out of trouble, Riverman. Page 9 & 10 http://www.proscale.com/downloads/Woodworking_Products/Pro-60_Manual.pdf
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I found this site, below, while trying to find out about Beech wood.. Very Informative.
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Just use the search function, my friend. They have many threads on this topic here. All you'll ever need to know, and more.
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Art Brush wrote Sorry Shawn, that was strictly tongue in cheek. When he said polish the molds, From that, I assumed he was using resin molds. His earlier posts led me to believe he was using foam, and as beautiful as his work turns out, I gotta know how he does it. I'm just a Hack compared to 'Yuzz Guys" but I do appreciate and admire your works and have the ability to improve.
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Your work is excellent and I'm sure I'll learn from your example. Now, hurry up with those pictures and instructions, ....Please. Are you making Resin Molds? I ask because It's difficult to polish Silicone Rubber.
