KcDano
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Everything posted by KcDano
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The fish really have the final say in the matter and that fish found your efforts appealing!
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How about the worm blower, plastic bottle with a hollow needle to inject air in worm to make it float
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Should be polycarbonate if it is lexan, if not, probally plexiglass not as good as lexan
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Find a major supplier in your area that handles large volumes of lexan and cuts to size. Explain what your doing with it, expressing that you don't need a whole sheet and by the way do you fish. I will trade a few baits for some of your large cut-offs. You will most likely strike a deal and get you lexan for virtually nothing.
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Nice! It would probally look better in my box though! -
Primo Deluxe! Thats what I think! -
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Gary Yamamoto made a bait similar in construction as what you mentioned. The front half was hard plastic shaped similiar to a rattle trap. Approximately at the mid section it was keyed to accepted soft plastic tails. Which could be changed quickly, by sliding the old out and sliding a new one in place.
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great stuff, especially the water spot effect!
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Since you forte is testing try using a quick setting drywall compound. They make 30-60-90 and 120, which designates the set time. The longer setting time will present more of an opportunity for any air within the mix to migrate out. The removal of air can be facilitated by the use of vibrating table or repeatedly dropping the mold box gently onto the bench or whatever surface you are working on. When the compound sets it will be hard as rock.
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Sorry wrong post! -
Spray cantastic!
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Could be a Dalton Special made by Florida fishing tackle company/ Barracuda brand or Dandy lure. Really hard to say several companies made a lure that is very similiar Shakespeare made a lure very much like the one you have picture -
Yes. interesting link, Dave Thanks!
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The fact it is fermenting and which could possibly lend some efficacy to the process. The addition of yeast could be something to try. The froth most likely is a result of co2 if the stuff is actually fermenting from wild yeast. I have read chelation and ions are responsible for the action, however I will investigate further.
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Yes, it was common especially around Mo. I have seen a few of the old sorhgum presses laying around.
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Dave, here is one place you can buy it by the rail car: Malt Products Corporation - Molasses, Malt Extract, Organic Malt, Agave Syrup, Specialty Sweeteners, Invert Syrups Pete, I have been reading about molasses and have read several times that it is used for a binder in morter. I am going to a horse stable and inquiry about borrowing some of the molasses. I wonder if the sulfer content is a factor in the rust removal?
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Yes, could be the wort for a new brew: Rusty Ale!
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Oh you could use checkering tools or a rotory tool with the appropriate bits. But I think it would require more of a precise skill to accomplish a nice scale pattern. Being the first attempt, I would take the simplest method first.
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You will have the scale protruding with the lines between below the level of the scale if you remove the netting from the body of the proto. In effect the results would be the same as the way you attempting. However, with plaster and netting on the proto prior to casting a mold you will only have to cast one mold.
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Thanks Pete, for hunting that down. I will conduct some some rust removal testing before long!
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Wrap netting around your proto and cover the netting with plaster, drywall compound or bondo. Cover the netting completely and uniformely. When it dries, sand the material down to the netting. If done properly you can remove the netting and you will have a nice scale pattern.
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Pete, no that is the first I have heard of using molasses for rust removal. That pistol has plenty of rust no doubt, most likely more so than steel. I think if I removed the rust it would be in pieces. I'm always in need of something to remove rust, though. I will try the molasses solution on some old lure hardware. On occasion, I use muratic acid it is cheap and goes a long way, quick acting too. However, not so good for your well being. Thanks!
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The tank antennas were of metal construction, however Shakespeare made the first fiberglass radio antennas early in the fifties