Jump to content

KcDano

TU Member
  • Posts

    849
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by KcDano

  1. I agree with the bulk of that, However, around the turn of the century a lure by the leading bait company were around a dollar some even more. Considering that people were making a dollar a day a fishing lure was a major expenditure. Baits that were produced in that era were built with quality and intended to last, due to expense. The majority of lures were dipped in enamel paint to provide a prime and base coat, which upon the colors were applied then dipped in clear. I am not sure how much impact dipping a lure in a sealer would effect the overall cost at that time.But if doing so would allow skipping a one or two of the dips in the enamel. Would it cost more or less?
  2. If sealing a bait to waterproof is so critical, I wonder why large bait companies never bothered for the best part of a century? I do know that some conducted tests to determine which woods were less absorbant. If they went to that trouble, you think the next logical step would be to find a sealer that provided a waterproof barrier, if sealing is critical to longevity of the finish.
  3. Yes, I think it will work. I have a rock tumbler that is powered by a small direct current toy motor with a transformer delivering 6 volts rated at .5 amps current. With the proper gearing it should work.
  4. That’s nice, I like that! Should be in a sticky thread for all to see and read, until the knowledge base is restored. Excellent!
  5. Something that I find interesting about the old lures, manufactures made no effort to waterproof the lure. Yet as Jacl mentions: the majority of the finish remains. Provided they are allowed to dry out. Granted the finishes back in the day were primarily enamels, lacquers and varnish and wouldn't hold up as well today's materials.
  6. Creating a spreadsheet capable of factoring in all the variables and producing viable output may prove to be a insurmountable task, or not. However a catalog of the various lip shapes and body profiles could be useful to the begining or seasoned builder.
  7. Hello Patentist, There has been some discussion in regards to a "disclosure agreement" or whatever the proper legal description of the document is. Would you consider that a viable method to disclose your idea or invention to companies or interested parties without jeopardizing you patent options? Thanks, Dan
  8. KcDano

    Glitter

    A method you can use if shooting lacquer or paint that requires solvent. Mix flake with straight solvent and dust the bait until the desired coverage is achieved. Upon completing the dusting with the flake you can then clearcoat, eliminating shooting a clearcoat twice
  9. Or set in at a angle either should eliminate that problem.
  10. Should work good! This could possibly present a problem, air from the airbrush going under the stencil were the is a force fit (stop pins) and being lifted from the frame.
  11. KcDano

    Homeless

    Jevs, I hope you and the crew are back at the abode soon.
  12. Nathan, you are too kind. His baits are even better! Usually fish-eyes are indicative of some type of contamination, which can come from various sources. The wood might have and contamination that the solvent in the paint can dissolve and float to the top of each coat of paint. Until you topcoat with epoxy and the epoxy can't dissolve the contaminate or stick to that area, thus fish-eye. I would recommend cleaninig the plug before topcoating, with alcohol if it doesn't react with the paint you are using. Sometimes air hoses and the compressor can add contaminate to the line. I would apply some epoxy to a bare blank to see if that is the source of the problem. Could be as simple as the wood contaminated. I you go about this systematically you will find what the problem is. PM if you need further assistance.
  13. Contact Rodney at this link he has knowledge in regards to patents and disclosure statements. http://ezknot.com/
  14. Paint jobbers used to carry a flattening agent for paint. Might be worth investigating further.
  15. KcDano

    Sparklin' Shad

    Thanks you two. Midmo, I used three automotive colors: a light silver, smokey silver and black for the spine. The glitter is micro sequin flakes, I don't think Ditzler handles them any more. However, there are comprable products out there. Try metalflake brand, possibly house of color or some of the lure componet suppliers.
  16. Wow, Nate some nice looking stuff, and I know they will work well! Nice Job!
  17. Wet sand the lure with 600 grit or finer sand paper. Just enough to make the finish flat and buff with rubbing compound to bring back the luster. Provided the finish is completely dry.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top