KcDano

I have tried using metal leaf for scales by spraying sizing through netting and then applying leaf. It makes some nice scales, however, it is labor intensive. If you a simply covering the whole lure body check out some of the spray can sizing out on the market now. It has a large window of application time. This product will stick to a primer or paint finish, and shouldn't present any problems with a topcoat. lukach4~Nice Baits BTW! What did you use to adhere the foil to the bait and did you burnish the foil after application?

This might work with inks and stripping enamel, but fast drying paints such as lacquer might present problems. If this unit operates similar to others manufactured over the years, it will require a considerable degree of skill to acheive good results. Assorted stripping brushes and one shot stripping enamel could with skill produce the same results.

I have fished several bug-n-bass lures with no luck. More of a collector lure than a fish catcher. Made in 2 sizes. Some are valuable if the right color.

The comment about BB'S in the paint jar, reminds me of squirting some of those large Metalflakes. The only way you could keep the flake agitated was by tossing a couple of marbles in the paint cup and constantly shake the heck out of it. Until the came out with a air driven agitator cup with a magnetic impeller, which worked great. Does anybody know if the make such a device for a airbrush? Something else you might find of use which pertains to paint. Years ago I came across a large glass & metal syringe, it has a glass tube and metal plunger. Works great for drawing small amounts of paint and thinner from a jar. After you have the thinner and paint in the syringe just shake it for a moment then squirt it in your airbrush cup, clean and efficient. In addition, it works great for power flushing your airbrush draw some thinner into the syringe place the syringe opening where the cup attaches to the brush and flush.

Tenatively, I should make it there on Friday evening. What time are you scheduling the activities for Friday? If not Friday for some unforeseen reason, Saturday AM for sure! Dan

If you haven't owned a airbrush before you are better off starting out with a single action brush. For several reasons: less expense, easier to disassemble and assemble. The majority of detail work on a lure is accomplished with stencils, scale netting & masks. So it is really not important how fine a line a brush will shoot, unless you intend on doing a lot of free hand work. There has been plenty of finely detailed art work performed on about anything you can think of, all done with single action brushes. If you master a single action brush, application will even be easier with a double action. If you decide you would like to upgrade, you can always use the single action to squirt your basecoats.

Scuff or Sand area that is to be painted, the area under the tape also! Pull tape back over itself when removing. Wet sand tape edge after paint has dried with 600 or finer grit this will help in leaving a clean edge when tape is removed. When using tape shoot only the amount of paint to give you the proper coverage. Let it dry completely before removing tape!

Something I forgot to mention: It might be best to pulse the switch to avoid spinning the paint so fast that centrifical force causes the paint to climb out of the jar, and onto everything in the immediate area. After close examination of the paint spots on my clothing and the dog, it might work good for applying a splatter finish.

Richoc: Dollar Tree Seibler: You might make a drying wheel out of this unit, However, it would be an extremely high rpm drier and wouldn't handle more than couple of dry flies!

Nice Bait!

I stumbled upon this battery operated drink mixer (which works well as paint mixer) at a dollar store. Seems to have ample power to adequately mix small jars of paint. Uses 2-AA batteries and comes with a wire stand which is prone to tipping over. All said, not bad for a buck!

Nice!! Yes, bring them in April!

Grey 3M Scotchbrite Pad will scuff the paint to provide a new tooth for your new finish! Can wash-out and re-used many times! Auto paint suppliers will carry these. If you find that there are defects in the finish that require feathering or filling; sandpaper will better serve you. However, if the finish is good and only needs to be scuffed prior to refinishing, Scotchbrite is the way!

Funny Farm, Since your affinity for old wood bodies is apparent. I decide to round-up the bodies I have. You might take a look at the pic to see if it is something you need!

Funny Farm, I don't really collect old bodies, but manage to end up with a few now and again. I look for trashed vintage wood lures to refinish and fish with.

I have some blanks identical to the ones you have pictured. I purchased a pile of tackle supplies from a estate sale which included several of the above bodies and lucky 13 type blanks. The bulk of supplies were Herter's brand, However, I have a 1967 Herters cataloge and there is no mention of either style of lure. They might be Herters of earlier vintage.

Damn the bad luck! I was confident that it would do something, maybe a crack or here or there. It sounded good anyway! You know the old adage: Man plans and God laughs.

Shawn, That is a fine looking bait, I don't think it get much better than that.

You might try filling the lure cavity with water and freezing the lure, water expands when going from a liquid to a solid. If it can crack an engine block, It might crack a lure down the seam! Just a thought! Good Luck!

As the story goes, James Heddon attempted to speed up production by applying the colored paint over a semi-cured primered lure and then force dry the lure in a oven. Much to his surprise the short-cut produced the crackle effect.

Catch, those are some nice looking finishes! Staging pearls in candies has been done forever in auto finishes. You can make a candie color from virtually any tinting base, this was how it was done back in the day before House of color and other custom finish suppliers were around. I also enjoy tinkering with blending lacquers, enamels, urethanes and anything I can get my hands on. In addition, to the techniques you have described. Different results can be obtained by employing wet sanding between coats and with the use of a naturaL sponge. I have been laboring to achieve a sponged base pearl finish on a lure, but have yet to find a sponge with correct porosity to look correct on a lure. However, I have a friend who did this on a boat in 70's and there ain't enough O's in cool to describe the look and I am confident it would be a winner for a lure finish if done correctly. It was accomplished by shooting a white lacquer base, then applying murano pearl suspended in very thin clear lacquer with a sponge. There are many variations one can do to add to the effect like a sponge applied coat then spraying a coat of a contrasting pearl which once dry is wet sanded to leave only small areas of contasting pearl in the pattern. Something else I want to try is graining or cello wrap jobs (some of the prevelant paint schemes on custom van's of the 70's) Where a light colored lacquer basecoat is applied then when dried a contrasting dark enamel is misted on and while still wet taking a graining tool or brush moving the wet enamel around to acheive the desired effect, once dry, cover with lacquer candie or tinting base candie of the brown variety or whatever color. Same works for the wrap job except after the enamel is applied you wrap wrinkled wax paper to imprint a pattern. Pflueger had a finish they made years ago called "scrambled eggs" which I have posted a picture of. I interested in hearing opinions from everyone as to how this finish is acomplished, I have a idea that it might be done retarder and fish-eye eliminator, but can't say for sure. Thanks!

If all else fails, you could back tape the edge, which will allow a feathered or tapered edge to the paint. Fold the masking tape back over itself as illustrated in the picture. Good Luck!!

If you can fill the lure cavity with water and then freeze the lure, with a little luck it might crack open on the seam! Good Luck!

Robert: If the primer and subsequent color coats have not had proper dry time and the clearcoat has dried, you will have solvent trapped in the substrate and will cause a bubble. Allow ample drying time for each coat of primer, color and clearcoat.

Nice Stuff!