KcDano

Jed, The stuff might have started to cure, you might try is adding some thinner to it. However, brushing after additional thinning might cause a few headaches itself. Try some additionally thinned DN through a airbrush and see if it will lay down. Yes, as you mentioned it could have degraded over time.

Orange peel occurs when paint or clear is sprayed and the droplets dry before flowing out. Several things can cause orange peel improper reduction/thinning, fast drying solvent/thinner/reducer, improper spraying pressure or gun held to far from surface being sprayed. The condition you mention sounds like wrinkling which can be caused by solvent trapped in underlying paint or finishe. Might try knocking the shine off the first coat of DN with 600 or finer sand paper and letting it set awhile longer before applying a second coat.

Nice job with the lures and tutorial!

Have a happy Bday, Dino

The above post of Fatfinger's clearly illustrates the implications of using solvent base paints and the occasional inhalation of the vapors. So the decline continues. Funny stuff! Vince

There is plenty of info on karman streets behind an object in water flow. Most of these diagrams are of a static object. Considering that a lure is dynamic you will soon find out that there is much more to it in regards to a lure action. Be prepared to do plenty of reading!

Good deal!

Pete I think that the pronounced edge on trailing section would have a similar effect.

This approach might only need to be done at the first section behind the joint or not, might enhance the action as a whole or might not, specifically at low speeds.

Pete, that is close to what I am speaking of, not quite though. I will see if I can download your pic and alter it to explain.

Since you might have the putty out. In an effort to replicate a the swimming motion of a fish there is some concern about the head movement. Now you say that yours has limited movement it would be interesting to see what would happen if you leave the head section in its original configuration. Then direct your attention toward the remaining sections. Specifically the leading edge of the trailing sections. Perhaps making them with a slight edge then gradually tapering the remainder of that section to expose more of the following sections edge, which you may choose to enhance or not. My objective is to discover if a more realistic swimming motion can be achieved by developing the most influential vortexes at the leading edge of the section directly behind the head. And with modifications to the edges of all subsequent sections which might allow for a swimming action at a lower retrieve speed. I don't have the opportunity to try this at the moment but I do think it has some merits

Happy Bday!

Good stuff, Pete.

Nice job!

It would really be wonderful if you could share a pic, mere words probally don't do it justice.

Congrats!

Now I might be mistaken on this, I don't think you can seperate the primary metals just by melting. So I would think it is crud of some such

Some use a certain type of spray adhesive applied to the mesh to securely hold it to the bait.

Nice!

Excellent on both techniques!