KrawdadBill

Something else I have started doing with my stainless steel screw eyes is to clean them with a paper towel and some alcohol. That will remove any lubricant that was used during the manufacturing process. Grant you it's not much lubricant or residule, but you would be surprised just how much comes off and is left on the paper towel. bill

You guys are right on with your ideas. I've used the same technique with some off my balsa lures, just a little different. I have been using 1/16 ounce or 1/8 ounce bullet weights, with a brass hook hanger that I bend like a cotter pin. I also add a small cupped washer between the weight and the eye of the hanger. Drill the hole with a small bit then enlarge it using my dremel tool. For me the dremel tool works better to enlarge the hole instead of a larger drill bit (using a larger drill bit I would splinter to outside face of the hole :oops: ). Insert the hanger through the cupped washer and weight, bend the ends back. Epoxy it all in and it ain't coming out. bill

I absolutely concur with Skeeter and BlackJack. I have been using 1/8 ounce barrel weights on some of my white cedar lures. I tirm off just a smidg'n on the length, drill out the center hole of the weight and run my eye-screw, or is that screw-eye, through the weight and into the body of the lure. I predrill a pilot hole for the screw in the lure body and enlarge the hole at the bottom of the belly of the lure for the weight. Add epoxy, insert the weight and screw in the eye. I have found that using a cupped washer between the weight and the eye makes for a neater job, at least for me. bill

I absolutely concur with Skeeter. I have been using 1/8 ounce barrel weights on some of my white cedar lures. I tirm off just a smidg'n on the length, drill out the center hole of the weight and run my eye-screw, or is that screw-eye, through the weight and into the body of the lure. I predrill a pilot hole for the screw in the lure body and enlarge the hole at the bottom of the belly of the lure for the weight. Add epoxy, insert the weight and screw in the eye. I have found that using a cupped washer between the weight and the eye makes for a neater job, at least for me. bill

Looks great Chip. I really like that color combination. :!: (note to self... put down air brush, pocket knife and epoxy... need to go fishing) bill

Awesome looking lures. Let us know how they run after you experiment with the different final top coats. bill

Terry, not enough weight will make one lay on it's side or even run upside down, while being retreived. Looking at the picture, if your weight is at the same position as the hook, it may also be a little to far towards the rear. Try moving you diving lip and front hook a little bit more forward. These guys are correct about the weight. It is different with each type of material used, wether it be balsa, basswood, popular, cedar, etc... Unlike our waist lines making a lure is one place where a little extra weight has an advantage over too little weight. From the size and shape, you are using, try about 1/8 ounce belly weight and use number 4 hooks. It comes from trail and error. Once you get a good handle on what your lure design needs, you will won't even think twice about the ones that didn't work. Your basic lure looks good, so don't get discouraged. One of the first lures I made, back in the early 70's, was a balsa lure patterned after an Original Big O. I saw the picture of the Big O in a magazine and thought hey I can make one of those. I still have the lure, but it lays on it's side because I didn't know anything about having to add a balast weight. I have often thought about redoing the lure but change my mind when I remember making it at our kitchen table so many years ago. This forum has been a big help. Would have been great to have had all this information back then. But that is what makes this group so great and so much fun today. Keep trying, research this forum and ask questions when you need. bill

Which type of epoxy are you using and how are you mixing it? I have been using Devcon 2 Ton with great sucess. When I mixed the epoxy in a small container, I experienced more bubbles. Especially with a thicker bristled brush. But I eliminated most of those bubbles after going back to mixing on a flat surface and using most any cheap bristled brush like you find at Wally World, or the cheap Testors model car paint brushes. The only drawback is that I can only coat several lures at a time with each individual brush as they aren't to compatable with cleaning using acetone. I still get some small bubbles when mixing and coating but most all come to the surface and disappear. Years ago I even used my fingers to spread the epoxy, but that can get you into a sticky situation. Plus not everybodies skin can take that kind of abuse. I have thought about eating some garlic salt just before top coating and breathing on each lure to give it a garlic scent. Sometimes a lot of the results you desire will come with more experience. bill

Great going Nathan. That has to be the most realistic looking rat I've ever seen. I know you are proud and you should be. Nice article with excellent pictures. Good job. bill

I'm still searching for a supplier of a good assortment of clear diving lips. Several years ago I purchased clear diving bills with the attachment wire all ready installed from wwww.tacklemaking.com. Of course soon after they stopped offering sales on tackle making supplies. They had a good assortment, just like the ones used by Lee Sissons and even the coffin bills that are used by Tennessee Tuffy> http://www.tn-tuffy.com/index.hmtl < even had the TT on those bills. If there was some way to find their supplier, maybe we could add them to the Tackle Supply Shop. Only if I had bought a bunch back then... instead of an assortment pack... Keep searching gang, any help appreciated. bill

You may be absolutely right. I have made some white cedar lures with metal bills and the rear hook hanger in the traditional vertical position(you can see through the eye from the side) and they are awesome hunters. The lures that we (me and my son) tested yesterday had the rear eyes positioned so you could see through from the top or bottom and had lexan bills. All ten ran awesome, but only one showed slight hunting characteristics. Of course it would have helped if our freinds pool didn't have leaves mixed in with his water. Guess you could say that added a natural enviromental texture (like in the fall season) to the test. Only problem with any of the ten lures was that my son broke a bill on one lure when it landed hard on the concrete instead of the water. But it still ran because the wire in the bill was holding it some what together. Put the Dremel tool to work last night and cut out the old bill and hope to get a new one epoxied in before the next test. Will try to get some photos uploaded soon. bill

:idea: Alright you guys and gals, a quick observation and question to ponder. Some of the wooden lures that I have made possess the hunting characteristic. On those lures I placed the screw eye for the rear hook at a vertical position, (you can see through the eye from the side ). I have noticed that on some of the commerical baits such as Bagley's, Lee Sisson's, Poe's... etc., the rear screw eye is placed just slightly off a horizontal position, (you can see through the eye looking down from the top or up from the bottom ). Would this slightly off horizontal position cause the split ring and hook to slide differently, as in a more erratic movement? : Since the split ring would slide back and forth, hanging in different places. Where as the traditional vertical eye placement the split ring would always hang straight down in the same position. Has anybody noticed and or experimented with this aspect of lure design? Or have I confused you guys and gals along with myself? Oh, by the way I have made a batch of lures from scratch, with the rear screw eye in the horizontal position, but have yet to test them. You know scratch is getting harder to find these days. bill

Hey guys and gals, just added a logo thought I'd see how it looks. Might change it to the one that is on my lure boxes. But let's see if this one works. bill

Wally World also carries the mesh fabric in their fabric/sewing department. I believe it is called toule and comes in several sizes and costs approximately $1.00 per square yard. That's where I get mine. I have heard that can wash it before you use it and it will be softer. As for holding a piece of mesh in place, cut enough to wrap around the lure, then use several small clothes pins to hold the material along the bottom side of your lure. There are many differnt ways to hold the mesh in place. Just try several until you find what works for you. Good luck. Bill

I usually sand every coat of Devcon 2 ton epoxy except for the last top coat. I sand before painting and then again after adding the first coat of epoxy used to seal the paint. Just be careful not to sand to deep and cut into the paint or foil. Also wipe away the dust from sanding with a damp rag, tack cloth or blow it off with your air compressor. Then make sure the surface is dry before applying the next coat of epoxy. Bill

The foil I used is foil tape, like used on hvac ducts. The texture added to the foil was made using a knurled handle from a metal hammer/screw driver combo kit from Wally world (Walmart). Saw some on sale just last week for 3 bucks, original price for the metal hammer/screw driver combonation was around $3.96. The foil tape came from either Lowes or Home Depot, been a while since I bought the tape. Bill

Topcoat is Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. bill

Thanks for the comments. As for the paint, it is regular Createx flourescent and opaque paints. bill

Here is a spook that I modified the hook placement, added an extra hook, foiled and painted. Createx paints and Devcon 2-ton epoxy. I have learned a lot from all the many hours of reading all the good input in this forum. Thanks, Bill

Alright, looks like I got the posting part working. Just need my father in law to give us his newer and better digital camera. This one is a Bass Magnet that I painted. Guess it's pretty good since I am airbrushing left handed. I can't get my ol' right hand to work like it used too due to Muscular Dystrophy, but where there is a will there is a way to adapt. You guys keep up the good work. I have really learned a lot and enjoyed this forum. Bill

Here is a SR-7 Shad Rap that I rippled and painted. Let me know what you think. Bill

Looks great, just add split rings, hooks, fishing line and water. Them fishes should jump all over that lure. Keep up the good work.

Yes, they look great. Let us see them after the final details. Keep up the good work.

Great job. Share your techniques with us. Can't wait to see more baits. Keep up the good work and good luck on your trip.

Nice job. I can tell you put lots of thought and time in your tutorial. Appreciate your effort as many can review and use it to their benefit.