nova

I've never tried painting plastic baits; but I think because of the physical properties of the plastic( soft and flexible), the paint you use cannot have a hard film finish or it will crack. Seems to me a "powder-type" paint is the only thing you could use. The downside to that is that the finish will be dull.

Did you win Z?

Good photography is all about contrasts. Put dark baits on light backgrounds and light on dark. Also you should get a full spectrum light. That will bring the true color out. You can get them at any hardware store, even Wally world. It's simply a florescent light system with the full spectrum light. It imitates natural sun light.

This site is so full of inovative people that it would not surprise me that large manufactures are silently scanning everything we do here for ideas and infringements. I would not be surprised that sometime in the future you'll see some of these ideas on the market under another name or see a patent get issued to someone other than the person who came up with it. After all; at the level of a national supplier we are talking large amounts of $$$ and that is all that makes their worlds go around. "Not personal; just business".

Your mold might be cold. Or, if you are pouring two-color baits, you may be waiting too long between the first and second color.

I've made several "production" molds with the resin and they work great. I can get 10 to 12 baits in each mold. Don't froget to glue the masters down with super glue before you pour the resin into the pan. If you don't the baits will float in the resin and the mold will be ruined.

That's a new one on me. Hasn't happened to me. The only thing I can think of is that your plastic might be too hot or that you aren't stirring the plastic enough. I pour on an angle( about 30 degrees).

Welcome Softworm. I feel the same way; I found this site last year after pouring for 10 years. There's a lot of good people here with some really good ideas. If you frequent the site often you will quickly take your pouring to a new level with their tips and tricks.

Try one drop of orange with a little white pearl powder in 4 oz plastic.

I had a 5 gal bucket from Del that went up like a volcano in the micro. Couldn't do a thing with it. Del replaced it for me. (good man) I've several more buckets from del with no problem. Iwould suggest you contact Del and talk with him. They are good people.

I use measuring spoons. If you look around long enough you'll find that you can get them down to 1/16 tsp.

Type setting lead has a high content of antimony and tin and can crack if you land your leadhead directly on a rock. I prefer wheel weights with pure lead added. Easier to work with. I get all the weights I need for $0.00. They are glad to get rid of it. The pure lead comes from plumber friends that take out old lead pipes and I get that for $0.00. I melt each separately and pour the ingots into a muffin tin I stole from my wife.(she looked for it one whole week; lol) The ingots come out at 1/2 lb. each. I keep the lead and wheel wieght lead separate. The when I need to pour I put 2 wheel leads to 1 pure lead. The finished product density is just right. Not too hard and not too soft. It takes paint better and the paint job will last longer.

That pic looks almost like Case Plastic's natural color. I've been trying to copy that for a couple of years and can't quite get it. Too bad too because the color works really well.

Ditto. Hot lead and cold lead. I get the same thing and have for the last 15 years. You just have to adjust to the fact that it is going to happen. and protect yourself.

I'm the same Chris. But I suppose one could get funky and use 90's.

Look out; it's heavy metal time. lol But it does sound interesting and unique. Post a pic.

Here's a simple solution to the mineral oil question. Take some plastic worms, put them in a ziplock bag and put mineral oil on them. Close the bag and let them set. You'll get your answer in a couple of weeks. I agree about the right to know for health reasons. Maybe if they thought they would get sued they might just come across with the answer. Just the idea of them being sooooo tight-lipped makes me think that the product just might be a very simple and cheap item that anyone can get their hands on anywhere.

That's what I thought but I couldn't remember the name.

Is the plastic soft or hard? How is it held on the jighead?

I haven't made a junebug with salt yet. I only have a recipe for non-salt. I use 25 drops LC black grape with 4 oz. plastic. You will have to increase the color quite a bit. You might even have to add a drop or two of black to take away the effect of the salt. I assume you "flour" your salt.

There are several types of "junebug" color. Some have a bluish background and some have a purple background. Did you check the sticky?

You have to start with a black bait. I use LC colors; I've never used Dels, it may be different. If you don't have the black background you won't get the full effect of the highlite. If you are trying to get to what I saw in the Yammie picture, that is a laminate. You can't get there from here,lol. The baits you showed are neat in their own right. You'll have to increase the black to really show the red.

I wear a full face also with organic filters from 3M. I tried a half mask but the fumes would dry out my eyes. Never used to wear anything. Now I have sinus problems. I have a feeling I'm not alone. I was told years ago(I won't say who) that the fumes wouldn't hurt me at all. Now I have to use a prescription nose spray twice a day. You can never be too cautious.

I've never tried it but I think you might be in trouble if you do it. I think the dye might be flameable. Try a few drops on a metal tray with a match. BE CAREFUL.

If that's the first we're all in trouble guys. I think someone's pulling our collective leg. In any case; grrrrrrrreat job.