nova

I posted a motoroil recipe on the sticky on page 2. I ran into the same problem with LC motoroil. Don't throw it out; it comes in handy for other recipes.

Have you tried Ebay?

Have any of you ever used a product called "Seal-All"? It comes in a small tube. It's made by a company called Eclectic Products Inc. out of Pineville, LA. I thin it down with acetone and brush it on, giving three coats and drying in between. I had used it before to seal gas tanks so I figured if gas won't hurt it whats a little heat. Works great and sells for a couple of bucks(even better)

Doc please disregard most of the previous post. I went to your site(very nice) and realized I had misunderstood your post. sorry about that. I will however post my watermelon recipe tomorrow.

Watermelonseed, or any color for that matter, is subjective. In different areas it is different colors. I don't only use the LC watermelon color I add to it. I don't have my cookbook right here with me; it's in the shop. I will however post it on the sticky. Have you looked at all 3 pages of the sticky yet? It may not be a bad idea to print it.

Aberdeens are shorter. I don't know if you know but some hook companys will make a hook to your design if you buy a bunch. ( I think 10,000) If I remember right Eagle Claw was one of them. Check it out; might be the answer to your problem.

Here's that pic of the tube cutter I made. It's 7"x12". The blades are 1/8" apart. I lay out 10 or so tubes in postion then I pull the roller over them pressing the tubes down into the blades. Works pretty good but I used the small zip blades on this one; the next one I'll use the larger blades. I used a hacksaw to cut the slots for the blades then I epoxyed them in place.

Thanks Jake. I was going by the tackle chat indicator at the top of the page.

Does anyone use the chat room? I watch every day to see if anyone is on it and I have yet to see any one there. Maybe I'm too early or too late. Duno.

I use a coffee grinder to flourize the salt. Some of the posts here have said to grind it for 5 min. I don't do that. I run it about 30-45 seconds. Maybe there are still some crystals left that gives me that effect. I don't know. It does effect the color somewhat; but then a lot of the senkos have the same effect. In any case I like the way it turns out and they sell quite well so I'm not complaining. To each his own I guess.

Ok :idea: now I understand. You open the door to the outside; dropped the ambient temprature in the room and kaboom. After I read your first post I went to my woodworking shop and got out my face shield and apron. I think I'll still wear them for a while yet.

I flourize my salt with a grinder. It allows me to get about 40% salt in the baits without showing any salt crystals. Sort of like yammies when you break the in two. The trick; I found out here: is to stir like crazy. I'm going to check into bakers flake salt though.( I've been using LC salt; the shipping kills me)

Glad you're ok. Was the pyrex cup empty or full? Or was there a chip in the glass? How hot was the pyrex? At first I thought you had set it down on a cold table.(I turn several molds over on the table to set the pyrex on). This is going to make me feel like a boobytrap defuser every time I open the door. Has this happened to any of the other people using micros?

I just started dipping tubes in the last few days as well. The number of dips determines the thickness of your tubes. As for the tails too thick; only dip to the total length of the tube two times and this will keep your tails from being too thick. They will cut a lot easier. I made a tail cutter with zip knife blades and I'll post some pics of it soon. I can cut about a dozen tubes at once.

Normark makes a pair of fishing pliers with an excellent split ring feature.There are also other features with these pliers.

Try this one:- 4 oz rubber 12 drops LC motoroil 4 drops LC watermelon glitter of your choice.

Sam; if it's not a secret tell us how you did it. In any case it looks really good.

Up here where I am, if it dosen't have salt in it you have a hard time selling it. Different strokes for different folks I guess.

Sorry about that; I didn't understand.

I was talking about wooden plugs( maybe I didn't explain myself too clearly, sorry). The paint I got was free. The only thing I had to by was the reducer and clearcoat. Bought them by the gallon. Cost was maybe $75 for both and they lasted for about 5 years. My logic was that if the paint was tough enough for cars it certainly would be for plugs and according to my customers they lasted pretty well. Just thought my idea might save some of you some $$$. for those who have a friend in the autobody business.

Hi guys. I haven't made a hard bait for some time now since I started pouring rubber; but when I started making them some 12 years ago I looked around for a suitable type of paint. My theory was that the paint had to withstand the elements. I had a buddy in the autobody repair and I got him to give me all the half full cans that were going to be thrown out. It happened to Sikens basecoat. I bought reducer and the clear coat. I liked the paint because there were a lot of metalics and I could mix the colors to come up with new colors. I used to put superfine glitter in the clearcoat for the final finish. Some of the baits had as many as 8 coats on them. I was just wondering if any of you guys out there had tried that way of painting.

I use 1/2 cup plastisol as my basic recipe and I add almost 1/4 cup of floured salt which I figure gives me around 40 % salt by volume. After which you stir like a mad man and keep stirring. What comes out does not show any salt crystals (like senkos); but you can feel the difference in the weight. Hope this helps a little.

Thanks guys. The bait catches lots of fish even though it wants to run on it's side. Works a lot better with a stinger on it. It may be hard to see with the pic but the body is spun deer hair and the tail, ears, and eyes are soft leather. The head weight is 3/8 oz.

A while ago I mentioned about a buzzbait mouse that I was fooling aroud with. Well, here it is; I hope. Never tried to put a picture up before. There are 2 more pics at the gallery.

I'm not a scientist, but it seems to me that the chemical composition of salt ( minus additives ) is still salt. No matter if it is coarse, fine or floured. The only difference is the size of the crystal that you are working with. So, if you take non-iodized coarse salt and flourize it in a grinder it should work the same as any other flourized salt. If you are looking for the crystals in your baits, now the size of the crystals will matter. I stand to be corrected.