nova

Post a pic. Colors can be people specific. www.novalures.com

You can buy fine copper wire on a spool that's used for flytying. Also; when I tied flys: I would find hobby motors and tear them apart to get the winding copper. You can get these motors quite cheap sometimes. If you know someone who pours baits and uses a coffee grinder they may give you the old worn out ones and you can strip those motors. I usually go through 3 or 4 of those a year. www.novalures.com

I haven't used this color; but it looks like a combination of heat and the purple glitter bleeding out. I noticed that the glitter can be seen in the first ones and then disappears in the last one. www.novalures.com

Good question; I've never tried, but I'm sure someone has. I would think that pam would work. (I've got shares in the comany;lol) www.novalures.com

Sray it with Pam. www.novalures.com

Also, too much hardner will cause too much heat and the mold can crack as it sets; or at the very least, warp. www.novalures.com

Yes. The first time I thin it I get it quite watery so that it will soak into the pop easily. Then I get a little thicker with each succesive coat.(but not to thick) www.novalures.com

No it can't. You get one shot at it and what you get is what you get. The downside with resin for me is that after you pour several hundred baits at a time the resin gets hot and somewhat soft. This can cause warping. Also, as the heat increases in the mold the smell of resin starts to be noticed. On the upside, the detail you get with resin is a little better than POP. www.novalures.com

I seal my molds with thinned epoxy. When I seal the mold the first time I do the whole interior of the mold. This will strengthen the POP around the opening of the cavities. POP is soft and the more you use it (unsealed) abrasions will take place. www.novalures.com

As far as the number of drops goes some company's color requires less drops than some other company's. Generally in the stick recipies will state what company's color they are using. The softness of the baits is controlled number one by the type of plastic you buy(not the name brand) and you can always add softner which is available from the same company you buy from. The heating end of it depends on the micro you are using. each one will heat differantly. Make sure you get one that has a turntable. You will have to experiment to see how yours will do. Start with short times like 1 1/2 min. Then stir and heat again for 30 sec. and so on till you get it hot enough to pour properly. www.novalures.com

One big tip is don't use re-melts. Too many additives in various baits as well as the moisture the baits have collected will cause the plastic to bubble like a volcano. Get yourself fresh plastic and start properly. www.novalures.com

This is why I suggested that you use a turkey syringe. It has a very large bore needle, thicker steel, and would be easier to clear. You shouldn't be getting too much plastic into the needle section. Are you pulling the plunger back after it's in the plastic? www.novalures.com

Glad I could help. Let us know how you make out. www.novalures.com

If you are using an open mold to pour these baits you can get yourslef one of those large syringes they use to inject turkeys and just after you pour the bait, stick the needle in and force air into the bait making an air bubble. This will help to float your bait. Just don't make the bubble so big as to mishape the bait and try to place the bubble in a place that won't get pierced by the hook. www.novalures.com

I've never used glass to cool the baits; I work on a stainless steel countertop and I've never had a "sweating" problem. www.novalures.com

Going by the picture I would use LC motoroil, 2 drops to start, for the back and white pearl with a very very little touch of blue highlite. www.novalures.com

For me it's better to glue it down. I find that if you push it into the pop the bait, being soft, tends to cause a mishaping in the mold. Gluing it down gives you nice clean lines. The only thing I push down into POP is a wooden master. www.novalures.com

You sure it's bleeding and not the heat that turning the plastic? www.novalures.com

There you go; now you're on the right track. enjoy. www.novalures.com

Looks good to me. Nice work. www.novalures.com

The only thing that should cause the layers not to stick (that I know of) is heat. If you're 2nd or3rd pours are not hot enough to re-melt a thin layer of the color it's being poured against, it will not bind well. www.novalures.com

Are you shaking the heck out of the bottle before you use the color? Also. make sure you put a couple of SS nuts in the bottle to help with the colors mixing. Watermelon is one of the touchiest colors. If you don't mix it really well there's no telling how it will come out. www.novalures.com

That's the one. All colors were LC. www.novalures.com

Try the Tubeman. He does good work. www.novalures.com

# 1 you have to pour right into the hole without touching the sides. # 2 try to pour the plastic as cool as you can and use spring clamps to hold the mold tightly together. Finally don't be in a rush to open the mold. www.novalures.com