nova

Some guys use gummy worms; so why not if it works. lol www.novalures.com

I just can't choose one; so do both, lol. www.novalures.com

Take a camera; post a pic. lol www.novalures.com

I did; nothing there that I could find. www.novalures.com

There are several colors of junebug out there depending on the company. I guess it's whatever you want it to be or what works best for you. In this addiction I have found; outside of a few standard colors; it's better to devise your own colors. That's why in the recipie thread you'll find several recipies for the same name of color. If you experiment a little you might just come up with a great color. www.novalures.com

There was quite a discussion about this some time ago. Not sure what the end result was. Do a search. www.novalures.com

Make longer casts in clear water. Whatever size bait you are using go to opposite size. eg:- if you are throwing 6" baits try 3" baits. If you are throwing loud baits go quieter. If you are throwing bright colors throw dark colors. If you are fishing topwater throw sinkers. If you fishing fast go slower. Without the info that Jim is asking for that's the best I can do. www.novalures.com

It all comes down to profit. The cheaper they can make them the more $ they make. And of course; what isn't made in China these days. I'm afraid the Chinese are going to be the only country in the world manufacturing all the products we use or consume. And here's a paranoid thought; then once they get the rest of the world dependant on them they cut it all off crippling the world's economy. Or better yet; they continue trying to poision us with there septic-raised fish or the lead-painted items. Now I hear they are sending us crappy tires for our cars. Now all that being said; the most stupid part of it all is that we are still buying this crap. Just my 2 cents. www.novalures.com

I've seen gourd green by several companys and they are all a little different from each other. For that color (from the pic) I would try LC motoroil with black and green flake. 4 oz. plastic and start with 4 drops of LC motoroil. Then go from there. It may even take a drop of amber; but start with the mo. Let us know. www.novalures.com

Braveviper; if you add one drop of white you can use a lot less highlite. www.novalures.com

Same here Jim. I guess we're just "old school"; lol. www.novalures.com

When I was doing hardbaits in the early 90's I came up with a divice that looks like a book. Mesh on both sides with a divider in the middle so you can put 2 baits at once. Close the "book" and airbrush both sides; open it and take out the baits to hang for drying. Takes longer to say it than to do it. In my hayday I used to turn out around 100 baits a week. I'll have to draw it out and post it for you HB guys. www.novalures.com

Turned out good. It can be fished sub-surface or it can be skipped on top to look like a fleeing baitfish. Going to post a pic in the gallery soon. www.novalures.com

Absolutley not. I use old table knives; or at least I told my wife they were old; lol. Wood will put bubbles in the plastic. When you stir the plastic don't do it too fast ( don't try to make whipped cream). That will definatley make bubbles. Stir like you would a cup of coffee. Heat you plastic in bursts if you are using a micro and stir between each burst. Don't try to heat the plastic too quickly; this is something you can't rush. Everything you do with this hobby/addiction is slow and steady. What brand of plastic are you using? www.novalures.com

The only other thing would be the bubbles then. Are you using a wooden stick to stir the plastic? www.novalures.com

Here's another couple of questions. Are you putting some sort of "oil" on your molds before you pour the bait? Are those baits you show heavy with salt? www.novalures.com

Just so you know Willy I learned to make molds on my own trough trial and a lot of errors. Been doing it since 1991. www.novalures.com

The slots don't break off as you don't put any pressure on them. I seal my molds with several coats of epoxy thinned with isopropal alcohol(spelling). I apply the coats until I get the glassy finish I'm looking for. I find it's better to put 4 or 5 light coats of thinned epoxy rather than 2 coats of thick. You will get a stronger and nicer finish. Also the build up of epoxy will thicken and support the hook slots. www.novalures.com

Neither Willy. What you do is after you pour out your baits for the production mold and glue them down in the mold form; you mix the POP but make it a little thin. This will give you time to work with it. Then you take a spoon and scoop out some POP and fill each hook slot with it. Then you fill the mold form with the rest of the POP. You have to work quickly and you also have to be careful that you don't create bubbles around the baits. Once it sets up you remove the mold from the form, dry and seal it. If you have any more questions just ask. www.novalures.com

My pouring table is a stainless steel counter so I set my pyrex/anchor on old RTV molds rather than on the steel. www.novalures.com

I use both as well. I have had a couple of cups blow up on me but both times was my fault. Pouring in the winter and getting a cold breeze on a hot cup will do it every time; lol. www.novalures.com

What about Vinnie and Rick; they do most of the work;lol. www.novalures.com

Exactly Willy. That way if you drop the production mold and break it you can make another just like the one you broke. What I did with the metal was to cut a slot through the POP from the outside to fit the metal. Then I slipped it into the slot and epoxied it in place. www.novalures.com